I posted this in the mechanics corner and got NO responses. Is there something wrong with the question?
Hi, I recently acquired a 1984 310 Limited. It was very well maintained and did very well on the 400 mile trip home (after a few starting out pains which have since been cured).
I'm contemplating a 6000 plus mile trip this year so I want to be aware of reasons for concern before they become reasons for towing/mechanics bills.
This coach has an oil temp gauge and a switch which apprently controls a fan which helps cool the oil when needed. What is the ideal/proper/acceptable oil temp?
Likewise for engine coolant temp what is acceptable and what is a problem?
Saw it this AM but did not get a chance to answer, sorry to take so long.
How accurate is your gauge? Unless it is a quality gauge and sender any reading you get is approximate at best. 200 degrees is safe and warm enough to boil out moisture without causing harm. Are you sure it is engine oil and not trans oil? They overheat more often and coolers and fans are more common on them than engine oil.
Coolant temperature is controlled by a properly operating thermostat. It is most likely a 180 or 192. Any idea what it is? That will tell you what is acceptable for your engine. But remember, you really need good gauges to get a true reading.
Just a tip for temperature maintenance, flush the coolant out, and refill with fresh distilled water and antifreeze mix...50 to 50 or 60- 40 (with more water than antifreeze)
add a can of CRC or NAPA coolant additive...it will greatly increase the cooling ability of your radiator. Its 5 bucks a can, a cheap preventive measure.
If you can get "water wetter" it cost more but also is recommended as is Purple Ice.
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Rallys twice a year..Lots of fun, food, and aluminum.
The transmission cooler on the '87 is internal to the hot side radiator head, that means that the "coolant" for the tranny oil is AT LEAST 200 degrees.
The engine oil cooler is internal to the cool side radiator head.
Your plumbing may well be different.
The external (electric) fan on my unit is controlled by a thermo-probe in the hot side of the radiator and the AC switch.
Be aware that (at least some) units have an oil pressure switch that controls the electric fuel pump. The rear electric fuel pump operation has been a problem for several Forum members.
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Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
If 215 is normal what temp would cause you concern?
Also, can you explain a bit more about the oil pressure switch which controls the electric fuel pump? Or perhaps give me a pointer to a thread which covers it?
I Think I can hear my electric fuel pump any time the ignition is in the on position.
[quote=guy99]If 215 is normal what temp would cause you concern?/QUOTE]
I think 225 is the redline on the '87. I have seen 220 many times on hot days.
One of the real problems with the cooling system is you can't monitor the pressure in the cooling system. For instance, say the radiator cap is "popping off" at pressure that maintains 215 degrees (4 psig?), the engine could concievably boil off all of the water in the active system, and the temp would not rise above 215 degrees until all of the water was gone, and then overheat very, very quickly.
See the recent thread "How long should the Low Coolant light stay on." by Steven Webster.
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Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
-----give me a pointer to a thread which covers it?
I Think I can hear my electric fuel pump any time the ignition is in the on position.
Try this thread "Help - MH Can't climb hills". Also, do a search on "Fuel Pump".
When I first picked up the 345, I know the pump came on without the oil pressure being "up". I have had problems since, and ran a new wire controlled by the ignition switch only.
Luck.
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Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
guy99 - you should be able to return used coolant to the store where you buy new coolant. Obviously this goes better if it's a car parts store vs. Wal-Mart, K-Mart, etc.
I also ran about 215 - 220 last summer. I ended up pulling the raditor, replacing the water pump, hoses, flushing, and adding following Alan's recommendations for mix and additive. Saw 180 - 190 consistantly. Interestingly the P30 Chassis manual refers to an operating temp of 195 for complete combustion.
One more note. My 86 is "plumed" like Dennis'....trans cooler and oil cooler in the radiator and the aux fans come on based on water temp send in the lower driver side of the radiator. I think mine come on around 220 based on come hill climbing last year
You may have a different setup than the 345's but also check you heater hoses. I blew a headter hose once and it dumps a lot of coolant in a hurry when it's running at 210.
FYI, Water Wetter is made by Redline, Purple Ice is by (I think) Royal Purple. Redline is sold at most gearhead shops as is Royal Purple, or you can search the web for a dealer near you.
I have used Water Wetter many times and have been satisfied with the results. I normally saw 5-10 degree temp drop.
Is there any way to tell if the gauge is accurate?
An infrared thermometer will at least tell you what temp the metal line is . It will be close to the temp of the oil. The IR thermometer is a "point and shoot" type, that doesn't require contact. The pricier ones have a little laser to point at whatever you are measuring, to make sure it is really what you are measuring. Put the laser dot on the item, and read the temp.
Available at higher-end auto parts stores (like NAPA and Carquest).
Terry
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