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Old 07-22-2015, 04:40 PM   #1
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Rivet Is installing a Banks system a DIY?

I am thinking about upgrading to a Banks system on my 310 once the weather cools down. Need a new muffler sooner or later and I can hear some tick sound coming from the left manifold.
Got the tools, the space and basic mechanical know how. Should I attempt installing a Banks system myself?
Would I have to do any pipe bending and welding?
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Old 07-22-2015, 06:02 PM   #2
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I watched a complete Banks system be installed on a 2005 Chevy diesel and was slightly intimidated by the amount of hardware that had to be uninstalled and all the new pieces/parts installed, not to mention all the electronics and wiring that had to be run. It took almost three days to complete the job. Just to give you an idea of what my comfort level is on doing something like this, I just completed the install of new aluminum heads on a small block chevy 327 cui engine that's in a 1954 Chevy pickup truck street rod, with no issues. Just make sure you have all the tools you might think to need along with new fluids and plenty of floor dry. Most Banks systems come with all the piping pre-bent. Best bet is to call Banks and talk to their technicians. Good luck.
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Old 07-22-2015, 07:49 PM   #3
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Hey Peter,

It's getting too hard to remember who has what! LOL.

Do you have Chevy 454 or diesel?

(here is the answer for those having 454 gas)
If gas, then yes, you should be able to install it yourself with no bending or welding required. The most difficult part will be removing the old exhaust manifolds if the bolts and ,if you have them, the air pump tubes without breaking bolts.

On mine it looks like the exhaust uses the stock pipe mounting brackets. You can even remove a half pound of brackets from the right side if you currently have dual pipes! LOL

Its all plug and play. Check out the following...
http://assets.bankspower.com/manuals...340-v3-web.pdf

There is a part or two that is reused such as the heat riser valve between the exhaust manifold and the pipe on the left side.
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Old 07-22-2015, 08:02 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dadstoy View Post
Hey Peter,

It's getting too hard to remember who has what! LOL.

Do you have Chevy 454 or diesel?

(here is the answer for those having 454 gas)
If gas, then yes, you should be able to install it yourself with no bending or welding required. The most difficult part will be removing the old exhaust manifolds if the bolts and ,if you have them, the air pump tubes without breaking bolts.

On mine it looks like the exhaust uses the stock pipe mounting brackets. You can even remove a half pound of brackets from the right side if you currently have dual pipes! LOL

Its all plug and play. Check out the following...
http://assets.bankspower.com/manuals...340-v3-web.pdf

There is a part or two that is reused such as the heat riser valve between the exhaust manifold and the pipe on the left side.
Thanks Dean,
Electronic Fuel Injected 454, no air pumps to deal with and the Motor is a GM Goodwrench from the late 90's, so there maybe hope for the exhaust manifold bolts.
I replaced 2 exhaust manifolds last year on a 350 and celebrated each and every bolt that came out in 1 piece .
Where does yours cross the driveshaft and does it exhaust on the drivers side (I hope)
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Old 07-23-2015, 08:43 AM   #5
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Where does yours cross the driveshaft and does it exhaust on the drivers side (I hope)
The Banks that was on the 310 I had previously exited on the drivers side.

Brad
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:38 AM   #6
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Yup, it exhausts on the drivers side just in front of the rear tire. The Banks kit also includes a nice chrome tail piece and a chrome heat shield. The sound level is fine. The right side crosses the driveshaft just behind the parking brake drum on the rear of the transmission. Lots of room around everything. The kit also includes heat shields for oil filter, starter and muffler.

With your fuel injection, you should have no issue with having to re-jet as one might have to do with a carb. Does your FI have an O2 senser? I don't know if the kits today have an O2 sensor bung welded on the headers, but that is something that is easy enough for a muffler shop to do.
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Old 07-23-2015, 12:58 PM   #7
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I did it myself on a 1986 Classic 345. Everything went off without a hitch except I had to exchange one straight pipe for a longer one. Apparently Airstream lengthen the frame between the front and rear wheels making the wheelbase something odd. This may not be a problem for your year but you might want to measure the distance from the front wheel center to the rear axle center and supply that information when you order your kit. As I recall there was virtually no cutting or cussing. The worst part as others have mentioned were the exhaust manifold bolts. Take your time, use penetrating oil, and a beer or two. You will be happy you did it when it's done.
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Old 07-23-2015, 04:37 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dadstoy View Post
Yup, it exhausts on the drivers side just in front of the rear tire. The Banks kit also includes a nice chrome tail piece and a chrome heat shield. The sound level is fine. The right side crosses the driveshaft just behind the parking brake drum on the rear of the transmission. Lots of room around everything. The kit also includes heat shields for oil filter, starter and muffler.

With your fuel injection, you should have no issue with having to re-jet as one might have to do with a carb. Does your FI have an O2 senser? I don't know if the kits today have an O2 sensor bung welded on the headers, but that is something that is easy enough for a muffler shop to do.
Thanks Dean, yes my FI does have an O2 sensor and the Holley manual is very specifc about the location when using headers. Something to pay attention to.
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Old 07-23-2015, 04:39 PM   #9
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.... and a beer or two...
if one of the manifold bolts breaks flush with the head, do I have to switch to something more potent?
Serious, is there even enough room to try to drill one of those out, or is it motor pull time?
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Old 07-24-2015, 07:16 AM   #10
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Quote:
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if one of the manifold bolts breaks flush with the head, do I have to switch to something more potent?
Serious, is there even enough room to try to drill one of those out, or is it motor pull time?
Peter, I'm pretty sure the angle of the heads is enough to allow you to reach up through the wheel well to drill them out.

Would it be a pleasant task? NO! But I believe it's doable.

Brad
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