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Old 06-24-2013, 12:15 AM   #1
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1978 28' Argosy 28
hillsboro , Oregon
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 8
Ignition Switch Replacement/ Battery Drain

#1 I've pulled every conceivable fuse and tap, but I still have a drain on my battery There's a lot of bogus previous owner wiring that I'm still trying to sort out. The battery will not charge on shore power and the ignition on accessory. In fact, few accessories com on in that position.

Any thoughts on phantom battery drain? I've always found them by isolating the circuits. Not this time.

#2 I want to replace the ignition switch. Unscrewed from the bezel, but it won't come apart. Turn the switch to "acc" and put the wire in the hole, feel the spring loaded release, pull, push, wiggle, and yank. Nothing happens. I'm moments away from using a drill or sawzall.

Anybody have a part number or cross reference for a new switch assembly?

'78
28'
Argosy

Thx
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Old 06-24-2013, 02:46 AM   #2
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1982 28' Airstream 280
Port Angeles , Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbell View Post
#1 I've pulled every conceivable fuse and tap, but I still have a drain on my battery There's a lot of bogus previous owner wiring that I'm still trying to sort out. The battery will not charge on shore power and the ignition on accessory. In fact, few accessories com on in that position.

Any thoughts on phantom battery drain? I've always found them by isolating the circuits. Not this time.

#2 I want to replace the ignition switch. Unscrewed from the bezel, but it won't come apart. Turn the switch to "acc" and put the wire in the hole, feel the spring loaded release, pull, push, wiggle, and yank. Nothing happens. I'm moments away from using a drill or sawzall.

Anybody have a part number or cross reference for a new switch assembly?

'78
28'
Argosy

Thx
I think you have to insert the pin in while the switch is in the "lock" position to get the cylinder out. Chasing battery drain in these old coaches is always fun. I wonder how much of the wiring mess under the dash came from the factory. Every old moho I have seen had the same mess. Good luck.
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Old 06-24-2013, 04:54 PM   #3
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1978 28' Argosy 28
hillsboro , Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smartstream View Post
I think you have to insert the pin in while the switch is in the "lock" position to get the cylinder out. Chasing battery drain in these old coaches is always fun. I wonder how much of the wiring mess under the dash came from the factory. Every old moho I have seen had the same mess. Good luck.
What the heck is the "lock" position? I keep reading about the "lock" position. Is it something out of the Kama Sutra? The only position that the pin fits in and hits the spring is the acc position.

Currently looking at the C1 diode in the generator which could drain the battery if shorted or missing.

Also, have an auto switching box so that the generator doesn't have to be unplugged to hook up shore power. Have no doc's on this mod and could be a suspicious hiding place for the electro motive force.

More later.
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:52 PM   #4
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1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond , Kentucky
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Not the Lock position, you need to use the Acc(essory) position which is turning the key in the opposite direction from the start/ignition position. I went through the same hassle you are when I was trying to get the ignition switch out of my dash.

The sequence I used was to rotate the ignition switch (with key) to the Acc position, insert paper clip into the hole on the front of the switch, now try to rotate the switch past the Acc position wiggling and pulling at the same time. After a few attempts mine just all of a sudden popped out.

Good luck!

Brad
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:59 PM   #5
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1982 28' Airstream 280
Redwood City , California
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I replaced my ignition switch last year and all the instructions I found were wrong.

It's like Brad said, turn the key counter-clock wise to the ACC position. Insert a paperclip into the little hole. Then turn the key slightly counter-clockwise and the tumbler will pull out.
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Old 06-24-2013, 09:42 PM   #6
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1978 28' Argosy 28
hillsboro , Oregon
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Ignition

Best $8.00 I spent was going to Napa today and buying a new cylinder assembly (with instructions). Just as you guys said. My issue was my cylinder was so worn the key would just fall out from any position. Made it difficult to pull while trying to get the cylinder out. But after a few tries, out it came. New one in. Just like new.

The "lock" position is for steering column switches.

Now to find the electrical gremlins.

Had a nightmare steering box issue. Couldn't find an exchange anywhere. Found a local guy who's going to rebuild my old one. Apparently this box was only made for a couple of years with a small production.

Next project is to find a new absorption unit to install in my refer.
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Old 06-24-2013, 09:59 PM   #7
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I'm glad you got the cylinder out without breaking anything! I also replaced the cylinder when I replaced the switch...I figured why only replace the switch? I was so frustrated at trying to get mine out at first that I was about to break the dash, but I calmed down, went for a ride on my ATV, had another beer and searched the heck out of Google for the right answer. I'm glad I didn't break the dash after all!

Next was the headlight switch which was even more frustrating...there is a pin on the underside of the switch which you press that releases the shaft! I was about to get out a hack saw for that one until I just figured there has to be a "right" way! LOL
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:08 PM   #8
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1978 28' Argosy 28
hillsboro , Oregon
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Speaking switches: I can't figure out how the windshield washers work. Tried twisting and pushing the knob to no avail. And all I get is a knob in my hand when I pull. Just about ready to wire a push button to the pump.
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Old 06-25-2013, 12:16 AM   #9
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1984 31' Airstream310
Honokaa , Hawaii
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Our phantom battery drain was closer to the battery: a broken cable terminal on the relay behind the battery tray that would reposition itself every time the tray was opened and closed.
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