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Old 06-03-2012, 06:31 PM   #1
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Honda EV 6010 345 Coach wiring

Been a busy weekend, got the Honda EV 6010 installed and the power supply is working as intended. Now I am looking at the 345 coach wiring harness and need to figure out which wire goes where. I remember from a previous install of 4010 that the on/off wires were reversed.
Does anyone run a EV 6010 in 345 and may be able to help me out with the connection to the 6 plug adapter? I have 1987 345.
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Old 06-06-2012, 03:56 PM   #2
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First class install job.


If it don't fit - hammer on it a bit.
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Old 06-06-2012, 10:00 PM   #3
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Dennis,
Thanks, you know what it takes that's for sure.
The install was a lot easier than in my old 79, since I discovered that the entire Generator pan is bolted in , instead of welded. So, theoretically you can drop and install the generator in the 345 using a floorjack. I opted to just drop the Honda with the pan back in place after i had it out to cut all the new holes.
Still working on the coach remote wiring, hoping to get the wires hooked up in the next day or so.
Honda is pulling both A/C's, univolt and Refrigerator with no problems, after some initial carburetor problems caused by some debris that got into the system. Sure was rewarding when it started to purr....
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Old 06-07-2012, 02:05 PM   #4
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Figured it out, here is the crossover reference:
Coach Y -> Honda6010 W
Coach BR -> Honda6010 G
Coach BLK -> Honda6010 BR
Coach Red -> Honda6010 Red

One slighter thicker gauge Orange wire left over on the coach side , which doesn't seem to do anything. Could someone be so kind and check where that Orange wire goes to on the original set-up?
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Old 09-17-2012, 07:34 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH-87MH View Post
Figured it out, here is the crossover reference:
Coach Y -> Honda6010 W
Coach BR -> Honda6010 G
Coach BLK -> Honda6010 BR
Coach Red -> Honda6010 Red

One slighter thicker gauge Orange wire left over on the coach side , which doesn't seem to do anything. Could someone be so kind and check where that Orange wire goes to on the original set-up?
Peter,

I've attached a couple of pages from the Onan service and installation manuals and a page from the 310/345 service manual.

onan-6-5-service-manual-page-18.pdf
onan-6-5-install-manual-page-7-2.pdf
310-345-service-manual-page-G20.pdf

The orange wire is for a Battery Condition Meter. I'm guessing it goes to the battery condition indicator on the status panel in the kitchen.

You should be able to connect it to any +12 vdc point, preferably as close to the batteries as you can get.

Hope this helps.

Brad
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Old 09-17-2012, 03:31 PM   #6
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Peter,

I've attached a couple of pages from the Onan service and installation manuals and a page from the 310/345 service manual.

Attachment 168506
Attachment 168507
Attachment 168508

The orange wire is for a Battery Condition Meter. I'm guessing it goes to the battery condition indicator on the status panel in the kitchen.

You should be able to connect it to any +12 vdc point, preferably as close to the batteries as you can get.

Hope this helps.

Brad
Thank you Brad, that helps a lot to get that last wire taken care off, except the battery indicator is working in the kitchen. I will have to study your attached docs...
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Old 09-17-2012, 04:00 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by PeterH-87MH View Post
Thank you Brad, that helps a lot to get that last wire taken care off, except the battery indicator is working in the kitchen. I will have to study your attached docs...
Peter,

Interesting. I've attached another page out of the Airstream service manual that shows the orange wire and four others going from the generator enclosure to the kitchen control panel for the remote start switch and battery condition meter and then four wires continue on to the dashboard for the 2nd remote start switch.

I can't say that it was hooked up on the 345 I'm dismantling because I had torn that wiring out months ago.

I think the bottom line though is you probably don't need to worry about that wire. Out of curiosity have you checked to see if there is +12 vdc on the orange wire in your generator cabinet? If there is you definitely want to cap the wire off so it doesn't short anywhere.

generator-wiring-to-kitchen-panel-and-dash.pdf

Brad
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Old 09-17-2012, 04:16 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Peter,

Interesting. I've attached another page out of the Airstream service manual that shows the orange wire and four others going from the generator enclosure to the kitchen control panel for the remote start switch and battery condition meter and then four wires continue on to the dashboard for the 2nd remote start switch.

I can't say that it was hooked up on the 345 I'm dismantling because I had torn that wiring out months ago.

I think the bottom line though is you probably don't need to worry about that wire. Out of curiosity have you checked to see if there is +12 vdc on the orange wire in your generator cabinet? If there is you definitely want to cap the wire off so it doesn't short anywhere.

Attachment 168577

Brad
One of the docs you posted says battery condition meter "if Used".
I checked, there is no voltage on that wire, so I assume its a dud. But since its there, I could actually use it as a trickle charge wire for the motor battery, fed by the univolt along with an on/off switch.
I really like the watercooled Honda generators, except they do not have any charger build in to recharge the motor battery.
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Old 09-17-2012, 04:37 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by PeterH-87MH View Post
One of the docs you posted says battery condition meter "if Used".
I checked, there is no voltage on that wire, so I assume its a dud. But since its there, I could actually use it as a trickle charge wire for the motor battery, fed by the univolt along with an on/off switch.
I really like the watercooled Honda generators, except they do not have any charger build in to recharge the motor battery.
I'm not sure I follow how you can use this wire to trickle charge with. It only goes from the genset compartment to the kitchen control panel.

The only thing I can think of that you might do would be to hook the orange wire in the genset compartment to the large red +12 vdc feed wire that comes from the battery compartment to start the generator, and then hook the end in the kitchen control panel to the wire from the battery meter. Is this what you're thinking of doing?

If so I would make sure you're only feeding an amp or two from the univolt. It's not a very large wire (16 if I'm not mistaken on the one I have) so I would want to keep the current low just to be on the safe side.

Brad
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Old 09-17-2012, 04:57 PM   #10
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I'm not sure I follow how you can use this wire to trickle charge with. It only goes from the genset compartment to the kitchen control panel.

The only thing I can think of that you might do would be to hook the orange wire in the genset compartment to the large red +12 vdc feed wire that comes from the battery compartment to start the generator, and then hook the end in the kitchen control panel to the wire from the battery meter. Is this what you're thinking of doing?

If so I would make sure you're only feeding an amp or two from the univolt. It's not a very large wire (16 if I'm not mistaken on the one I have) so I would want to keep the current low just to be on the safe side.

Brad
Yes, but need to engage my good friend Joe, who helps me with the electric/electronics to follow your suggestion to only feed it an amp or so.
As you know, in the 345 the control panel is just above the stove cabinet that houses the univolt, so it would be a short trip for the orange wire to the univolt.
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Old 09-17-2012, 06:10 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by PeterH-87MH View Post
Yes, but need to engage my good friend Joe, who helps me with the electric/electronics to follow your suggestion to only feed it an amp or so.
As you know, in the 345 the control panel is just above the stove cabinet that houses the univolt, so it would be a short trip for the orange wire to the univolt.
I'm being overly conservative on how much current you can flow through a 16 gauge wire. The business I'm in tends to force me to think that way

You could probably charge at 3 to 4 amps all day long with that size wire but after a friends motorhome caught on fire in the electrical compartment while it was sitting beside his shop (he lost his mh, shop, all his tools and four cars) makes me try err on the safe side

One of the things you have to worry about is voltage drop over the roughly 33' (8' across mh, 1' in genset comp, 4' towards kitchen, 7' up wall, 3' to control panel, 3' back to wall and 7' to univolt) of wire you're looking at. DC voltage drop is worse than AC so I would definitely just want a low amperage trickle charge, no need for anything more. After all you're just wanting to make sure your starting battery is charged while sitting idle.

The thing I would want to make sure of is to disconnect the trickle charger when starting the engine. Again, just to be safe

Brad
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Old 09-17-2012, 11:25 PM   #12
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Easy does it...

Here is the safe and simple solution:
Since the Honda 20amp circuit first goes to a 2 socket plug, I can just get a cheapo trickle charger that plugs into the second socket. Then it will only charge the motor battery when the Generator is running.
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Old 09-18-2012, 06:18 AM   #13
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Here is the safe and simple solution:
Since the Honda 20amp circuit first goes to a 2 socket plug, I can just get a cheapo trickle charger that plugs into the second socket. Then it will only charge the motor battery when the Generator is running.
Peter,

I didn't mean to discourage you from using the orange wire as you were suggesting. I think having the starting battery trickle charged while the rig is parked is a smart thing to do. My only concern was making sure you didn't try to push to much current through a smaller sized wire. The orange wire is perfect for trickle charging at an amp or two which is all you want for trickle charging anyway.

Thinking about it more, I wouldn't use your univolt to trickle charge the battery I would buy a small plug in charger like you mentioned and plug it in somewhere near the univolt. There should be an extra 120 ac outlet on the wakk behind the sink cabinet. At least there was on the 345 I've dismantled.

Brad
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