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Old 08-17-2014, 10:01 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by ghaynes755 View Post
Try using just one of the 120V outlets on the generator. Maybe the 30amp is kaput. If you get no power on 120, like turning on the TV, then I would bet it is the ground issue. There is a way to modify a 30amp connector to trick the trailer into thinking there is a ground. I've seen those posts either here or on the net.

I tried it like you suggest. Every direct outlet on the generator will fire a shop vac, no problem at all. Just a little (< 1 second) hiccup in the generator, and then full power. I have a standard 110 plug to 30A converter, and tried that on all three available outlets between both generators, and on both in parallel to see if that would supply power - still nothing. Multimeter shows consistent 126-128 volt readings from common to hot in all configurations - the only thing I can't read is the amperage the circuit is a carrying into the trailer.


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Old 08-17-2014, 10:53 PM   #16
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I gather that you have two receptacles on the coach. Perhaps one in the front, one in the back.
Does your shore power cable plug into the rear receptacle?
If you connect the shore power cable to the generator, does it work?
The reason I ask is. If you have to places on the coach to connect power. There will be a transfer switch. To prevent you from any back feeding. These transfer switches are famous for failing.
What is the purpose of having 2 cables (one black and one white)? Are they different lengths? Is one for shore power the other for generator power?
Can I assume that the female end of the cords you show, plug into the coach? And the male end plugs into the shore power or generator?
Can I assume that you are plugging the cable from the generator into the receptacle on the coach marked generator?
Do you unplug the shore power cable from the coach when you connect the generator cable?
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Old 08-18-2014, 08:26 AM   #17
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Thanks TG, I do have two connections on the trailer. One in front and one midship streetside. Neither is marked generator.

I have the two cables (W=50' & B=25') just for convenience. My outlet is about 35' from trailer at home. I never plug both in at once, but have tried both from the generator in both receptacles.

Your idea about the transfer switch is interesting. Would that switch fail when the generator is powering, but work when the shore connection is powering?

Also someone mentioned the grounding issue. I wonder if that could be the problem. Searching for that thread!
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Old 08-18-2014, 08:33 AM   #18
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I would use one of these.
L5 30P to TT 30R Generator Adapter Generator 30A to RV 30A Adapter | eBay
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Old 08-18-2014, 08:53 AM   #19
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I would use one of these.
L5 30P to TT 30R Generator Adapter Generator 30A to RV 30A Adapter | eBay
Right. You should have one of these adapters plugged into the Companion and the male end of the shore power cord plugged into the female side of the adapter. The twist lock end of the shore power cord plugs into your female shore power outlet.
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Old 08-18-2014, 09:44 AM   #20
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As I see it, both cords you are using have twist lock male plugs on the power receptacle/generator end. Therefore there is no need for the adaptor shown above.
I will assume the receptacle (shore power) is also a twist lock.
When you test the generator with other equipment. Are you using the 30 amp twist lock receptacle on the generator? Or the 20 amp receptacle?
Do you have an adaptor cord to go from the standard 20 amp 3 prong plug to a 30 amp twist lock receptacle?
There should be a circuit breaker for the 30 amp receptacle on the generator. Are you sure it is reset? The 20 amp receptacle will have a separate circuit breaker.
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Old 08-18-2014, 12:08 PM   #21
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Rich really sounding like there is a surge protector someplace on board that is blocking the AC with the Hondas. Start looking to see if you have one of the Surge Guards or Progressives hard wired. Likely to be close to the AC breaker/distribution box.
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Old 08-18-2014, 06:05 PM   #22
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As I see it, both cords you are using have twist lock male plugs on the power receptacle/generator end. Therefore there is no need for the adaptor shown above.
I will assume the receptacle (shore power) is also a twist lock.
When you test the generator with other equipment. Are you using the 30 amp twist lock receptacle on the generator? Or the 20 amp receptacle?
Do you have an adaptor cord to go from the standard 20 amp 3 prong plug to a 30 amp twist lock receptacle?
There should be a circuit breaker for the 30 amp receptacle on the generator. Are you sure it is reset? The 20 amp receptacle will have a separate circuit breaker.
You're right TG, they are all twist locks. I have a 20A three prong to 30A twist lock adapter, and tried that too . . . nothing. I will definitely go on the hunt for the surge protector as you suggest. Does anyone think it may be the transfer switch?

As I understand it, they function to distinguish between shore and generator power. The "default" is shore power, and the only thing that kicks it off that setting is when there's a generator connection with no shore power. I wonder if that switch is stuck in the shore power position and just won't/can't flip to generator mode?
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Old 08-18-2014, 10:58 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by ghaynes755 View Post
Rich really sounding like there is a surge protector someplace on board that is blocking the AC with the Hondas. Start looking to see if you have one of the Surge Guards or Progressives hard wired. Likely to be close to the AC breaker/distribution box.

Good advice! I found a Surge Guard 40250-RVC tucked in behind the panel. Any suggested workarounds?


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Old 08-18-2014, 11:33 PM   #24
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The Surgeguard seems to be the transfer switch, with protection features. Do you have the remote monitor panel option? If so you should be seeing an error message. If not, you will have to do some testing.

Two relatively inexpensive items, one or both of which you may have, could help pinpoint the problem. Get a 30A male to 15A female adapter and an outlet tester (less than $5 at a home improvement store). Set up your generators for parallel operation and start them up. Plug the adapter into the 30A outlet on your companion and plug the tester into the adapter. Check the lights with the decoder to see if a problem is indicated (missing ground, hot neutral, etc.). If a problem is indicated, report back and someone should be able to help you solve it. As someone said, it seems your surge protector is seeing something it doesn't like and not allowing the generator power through. My guess is neutral is floating (not connected to ground pin). The Surgeguard wants to see the neutral (white wire) and ground (green wire) at the same voltage. According to my Honda service manual they are not. If you determine this is the cause, the fix is simple. Open up one of the twistlock connectors and connect a short jumper between the white and green wires.

The tester is a good thing to have on hand anyway. Use it in the adapter to test power at a campsite prior to plugging in your trailer.

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Old 08-18-2014, 11:45 PM   #25
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Honda EU 2000's in parallel

If you have 2 places to power the coach. You will have a transfer switch of some sort. It is a critical safety device. Giving protection from any feedback to the unused receptacle on the coach.
If it were my coach. I would wire the surge protector into the shore power circuit. The one a mid ship. Leave it out of the "generator" receptacle as I will call it.
There are a number of devices that "don't like" inverter power. The surge protector appears to be one of them.
The inverter generator more than likely has it's own surge protection.
If you do what Al suggested with the cable. You will need to designate that cable as "generator only use". You do not want the ground and neutral tied together in your coach. The 120 volt AC panel in the coach is defined as a sub panel and should NOT be "bonded".
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Old 08-19-2014, 12:24 AM   #26
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Thanks TG and Al. I have some work to do tomorrow. Will make it happen and report back. Much appreciation to you both!
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Old 08-19-2014, 12:27 AM   #27
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I wonder... What if you had a bit of a load on the gens the. Hit the AC switch... Might be a problem with the Gen building that "spike" of current and the protectors kick in....
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Old 08-19-2014, 01:41 AM   #28
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OK, I just went thru myself with a pair of Yamaha 2000i's. Weird thing happened. First, you need to check the standard outlet on each generator/inverter with a circuit tester like this; 61-035 IDEAL Electrical Socket | 35F2254 | Newark element14. It will tell you it the outlet is wired correctly. It's a good tool to have so you can check 15 or 20 amp shore power outlets before you plug in. Turns out in my case that somehow the neutral and ground got reversed. At least that's what the tester indicated.
My inverters were working fine and then they ran out of fuel (propane) while the AC was running. I changed the tank and started the inverters again and all was fine until I turned on the AC. It would not work and causing lights to blink on and off. It also keep killing the inverters. Using the circuit tester at both the inverters and on an outlet on the AS, the tester indicated the ground and neutral were reversed. Don't ask me how or why, it just was. I couldn't get an answer from the Yamaha dealer either.
I just spent the better part of the day helping another AS getting his propane powered Honda 2000's dialed in and then my problem started. He had a similar experience and told me about some research he did on the internet and found a simple fix. He took and male 110v plug and placed a 12 gauge jumper between the neutral and ground inside the plug. Then he plugged the male plug into one of the standard outlets on one of his inverters and Bingo, problem solved.
I have a pretty strong electrical background and it sounded crazy to me, but I did the same thing and Bingo! Everything is working fine and when I plug in the circuit tester on either the inverter or the AS when connected to the inverters, it shows the wiring is correct. AC works just fine.
Get the tester, they are not too expensive and test the outlet on the inverter. Let me know if this solves your problem.
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