Hella sealed beam headlight replacement part numbers

[chriscraw]

As I could find no previous Forum link, I thought it would be useful to share the correct Hella part numbers used when converting the original Hella (or another brand maybe?) to H4 halogen bulbs. My 350LE was previously equipped with Hella sealed beam headlights, two of which were blown. All part numbers below are Hella and include components as described in this link
http://www.myhellalights.com/index.p...ion-headlamps/

High/Low Beam (top pair)
HLA-003177862 this is the part number for one headlight although can be purchased as a two light set as HLA-003177801 (hard to find though and no price advantage)
High Beam (bottom pair)
HLA-003177821, this is the part number for one headlight, however, can also be purchased as a two light set as HLA-003177871 but again, no apparent price advantage.
The conversion was easy although the bezel screws are inset and difficult to re-insert.
I purchased mine from Summit, however, they are on various sites for the same price. Can't wait for a night drive to check them out

[Boom Sounds]

Chris - I need to upgrade my lights. I think our coaches are the same vintage (1991) so probably the same build. Out of interest, why did you opt for these rather than LED? Thanks Nick

[chriscraw]

Nick..have now fitted the new lights and they look great. too cold at the moment to take her out at night for a "test lighting". I do very little night driving so night vision improvement was not a serious criterion. My reason staying away from LED's was simply staying with the original look. Most LED's I look like "googles". Similarly, although I have changed-our the two single beds for a queen and replaced the ice maker with a small refrigerator, I've kept all the bits so that the next owner can revert to the original. Similar thinking on the headlights.
I have, however, changed the exterior coach lighting, indicators, and brakes to LEDs'
Best
Chris

[bobmiller1]

Chris, how about some pictures of the new headlights installed...I am interested, Regards, Bob

[chriscraw]

Bob..will do once the rain stops
Best
chris

[chriscraw]

Bob..here's the pic..sorry if its "upside-down" but have never been able to figure-out a way to avoid this, even posting an upside-down image does not seem to work.
Grill needs to still have the alloy exposed.
chris

[bobmiller1]

Chris. they look great, like OEM let me know how they work at night....I think i'm going to try them with the addition of relays to take the current draw away from the headlight switch circuit, Regards, Bob

[chriscraw]

Bob..planning for a night drive early in March so will see how they shine then. Not really expecting the full treatment from more expensive solutions but certainly seems to be much better than the old sealed beam set.
I take your point on adding relays to take the load off the switch but having spent way too many frustrating hours behind the dash or under on my back I'm hoping the current draw is acceptable.

[bkahler]

Chris, I was under the impression that Halogens draw more current than standard bulbs.

I had a dimmer switch fail on my old 310 while driving at night through the mountains of Kentucky. Not something I would recommend anyone else trying

Brad

[chriscraw]

Brad..as the original lights on my 350LE were Hella sealed beam halogen, I have assumed that the current draw on the replacement "bulb halogen" would be more or less the same. In fact the chap at Hella Tech Support I spoke confirmed their advertised quote "Ideal for:
• Retrofitting
• Replaces old sealed beam lighting technology.."
This was a concern as I loath auto-electrics circa Airstream/GM 1991 and did not want to retro-fit relays into the already "Heath-Robinson" behind dash wiring.
Good warning though and one I shall watch (feel or smell?) on it's first night-time outing.
Cheers
Chris

[bkahler]

Chris,

I believe I was running Halogens in my 310 as well. The problem with the Airstream wiring is all of the lighting (running lights and headlights, etc) goes through the headlight switch causing it to overhead due to the amount of current passing through the single set of contacts. The dimmer switch that failed in mine only handled the current from the headlights yet it failed.

Halogens typically draw 55 to 60 watts or 4.5 to 5 amps each. Cree LEDs typically draw about 8 watts watts or less than an amp each. That change takes a huge load off the switch.

For me that reduction in current draw alone was enough to make the switch to LEDs worth it.

Brad

[chriscraw]

Brad..mmm..you are correct of course but I'll just have to wait and see after a night drive trial. I'll be a'smelling and a'sniffing. As my night vision is a real hazard, only plan very limited night travel due to poor planning or break-down which is always on the cards!
chris

[mayco]

Kinda funny...I retrofitted new LEDs before our most recent trip out west. A month and a half or so on the road and I think I ended up using the headlights twice during the whole trip. We just don't end up driving at night, on purpose. Totally happy with the retrofit but I was all excited about my new lights, couldn't wait to use them, Hehehehe and didn't need to. But, glad I did it because we've been caught before entering a new campground at night and felt pretty lost on the state park roads within the park. You cannot count on good signage in parks. Some are really good and some you can drive a few miles to the actual campground and not see one directional sign along the road. After a day of driving, still having to set up (at least minimally), it's a real drag with those old sealed beam lights and not having a clue where you're going inside a new to you park.
I am happy with the light from the new LEDs.
An advantage to the Hella is that you can get replacement bulbs pretty much anywhere correct? With the LEDs, you can't. Though you can swap high beam with low beam if needed on the road.

[chriscraw]

Brad....isn't finding that lost campground site after dark the exact use for which the AS roof-mounted spotlight was intended?
From the comfort of my cab, I was able to spotlight a 200-degree arc using the toggle out to about 20 feet which were quiet enough to stay on the bitumen, avoid deer, site poles, wandering pedestrians and other campsites!
Also looked really cool!
Indeed the halogen bulbs are interchangeable as type C4. I think the bulbs that came with the replacement lights were sort-of Hella medium quality. Apparently, Sylvania Silverstar Ultra bulbs are the "ant's pants"
but at around $40 a pop...well!
chris
again upside-down pic..is is me ?

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by chriscraw

Brad....isn't finding that lost campground site after dark the exact use for which the AS roof-mounted spotlight was intended?
From the comfort of my cab, I was able to spotlight a 200-degree arc using the toggle out to about 20 feet which were quiet enough to stay on the bitumen, avoid deer, site poles, wandering pedestrians and other campsites!
Also looked really cool!
Indeed the halogen bulbs are interchangeable as type C4. I think the bulbs that came with the replacement lights were sort-of Hella medium quality. Apparently, Sylvania Silverstar Ultra bulbs are the "ant's pants"
but at around $40 a pop...well!
chris

I would imagine driving into campgrounds at night was one of the uses Airstream provided the spotlight for. The spotlight actually works quite well for that task and I've used it for exactly that purpose.

Right after we took ownership of the 310 it was getting dark. We drove from the sellers place to the closest gas station to fill up the tank but by the time the tank was full it was night time. While driving to the gas station the single remaining headlight bulb stopped working. To get from the gas station to the campground was only three or four miles away so using only the spotlight and by following our toad to the camp ground I was able to make it. I will admit that when the toad got to far ahead the lone spotlight seemed to be lacking a little

again upside-down pic..is is me ?

Not you, the camera. I always process a picture I want to upload with a photo editing program to verify it's oriented properly. That's about the only way I've found to ensure they upload correctly.

Brad

[Boom Sounds]

Hi all,

I can buy these CE (Europe) certified lights on UK Ebay. Do you think they would be plug and play (as they claim) or would I need to use some relays?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4pcs-4x6-...cAAOSwZrhaXw5J

thanks
Nick

[mayco]

Hey Nick,
The main reason to use relays on the headlight circuit is to reduce the amount of amperage being drawn through the headlight switch. Switching to LEDs accomplishes the same goal.
So to answer your question would be "no" you don't need to use relays on those LEDs but you could if you wanted. Relays wouldn't gain you much though. I personally just plugged them into the existing wiring. You'll like em. You may need to switch around the pins in the connector. Very easy to do.

[bkahler]

As Mike said, you don't need relays when switching to LED headlights. LEDs are something like 8 times more efficient so the current draw going through the headlight switch is greatly reduced.

With that being said I've been installing relays for just about everything in my Argosy. So many that I've run out of room for where to put them!

Brad

[Boom Sounds]

Originally Posted by mayco

Hey Nick,
The main reason to use relays on the headlight circuit is to reduce the amount of amperage being drawn through the headlight switch. Switching to LEDs accomplishes the same goal.
So to answer your question would be "no" you don't need to use relays on those LEDs but you could if you wanted. Relays wouldn't gain you much though. I personally just plugged them into the existing wiring. You'll like em. You may need to switch around the pins in the connector. Very easy to do.

Thanks, maybe my headlight switch won't get so hot.

[Isuzusweet]

There's a headlamp switch?

Cheers
Sidekick Tony