Front Fuse Panel and cab heating

[Chuckles]

I don’t know if I asked this question, but here goes…

The fuse panel right up under the dash… does it split? Can the top section that carries the fuses and “Ign” connections be separated from the base? Looking at the unit, it looks like the fuse section may come away from the bulkhead section where the wiring comes through from the outside. I would dearly like to fit the fuses into or behind the glove box opening.

Reaching this panel is a nightmare and a soul of my proportions makes it almost impossible.

And that “TEMP” control … it looks like an electric switch-operated thermostat with a capillary into the heater box. I can find no reference to the way this works. I cannot get the heater fan to work and the heater matrix pipes run cold all the time. Is there a tap or ¼ turn valve up against the engine block where the heater pipes come out for the auxiliary heater and water heater exchanger?

I hope you can help, its almost minus 2 or 3 degrees here!
Thanking you in anticipation
Chuck

[swebster]

Chuck,
Ah...welcome to the Airstream Motorhome Dashboard (insert wavy scary music here). Not sure on seperating the fuse unit from the wiring harness but I'm sure you could figure out a way to extend it. I think it's a standard GM truck harness. You could also look into a replacement or add on from Painless Wiring (http://www.painlesswiring.com/).

The temp control is a Chysler unit. Unforetunately it's no longer available so junkyards are the only source. It has a cable system on the temp control which runs down to a butterfly valve on the input heater hose up front. This usually rusts and requires replacement or maintanance to get working again.

The entire heater hose, heater box system is considered a weak point in the cooling system and many owners have added shutoff ball valves to isolate the heater from the cooling system. It's also hard to keep the heater control valve closed so these "extra" valves ca help prevent heating the cab in the summer. You may find something similar installed on yours.

[74Argosy24MH]

The inner fuse panel will split from the outer section, depending on the age there will be one large bolt in the center or smaller bolts in the corners. The harness won't be long enough to move it to the other side so you will have to splice the wires on both sides of the panel, find a place to relocate and seal the old opening. Lots of work, probably easier to pull the front seat. If there is an ongoing problem with having to access the fuse panel make a plate with nuts welded to it to align with the seat mount holes, rivet or bolt it to the floor, and you will only have to work from the top to remove the bolts.

[74Argosy24MH]

The capilary tube goes into the evaporator for the ac, fairly standard in the way it operates.

[Chaplain Kent]

Chuck,
I am looking for a heater fan switch as well. I replaced the cable last year and tried to replace the switch at that time but could not. I ended up welding a new end to connect the cable up to. Now the switch is broken and will need to be replaced. if I find two I'll let you know. Good luck with the fuses. I use a long nosed pliers, prayers and plunges- most of the time the fuse lands close to where it is supposed to be.

[Chuckles]

I don’t have a problem with the fuse panel per-sae, its just a b@@@!! to get at!

The fuse panel appears to have a bolt at each corner seen from inside and one larger nut/bolt? from the hood side. I will now have a go at separating the two and see what happens. If it is going to be more work than its worth, I might just take a couple of leads from the Ign circuit terminals to a separate fuse block to run the rest of the dash stuff...

Things like the door dead bolt will not actuate and other silly items that include the dash heater fan will not work. I take it, the switch on the dash operates the doors deadlock so One doesn’t have to get out of the drivers seat to throw the lever at the door.

I have heard of some chaps revamping the heater circuits, with new heater matrix etc., is there any information around on this conversion?

Out of interest what does ICC Flasher switch do on the far left of the dash? (My dash is the late ’82 to ’84 type with a single row of warning lights.

Are parts of the dash (passenger side) available? All my chrome effect trim is broken and the simulated wood is hanging off the vents.

Thanks too on the layout of the TEMP control, I must look at that more closely.

Thank you one and all for your replies
Chuck

[Robfike]

The "ICC BLINK" switch is there so you can "blink" your upper clearance lights at night to say "thank you" to someone you have just passed, or has passed you.
Good luck with your wiring,
Rob

[Chuckles]

Thanks Rob - No wonder I couldn't see anything happening!
Chuck

[noiva]

I can't believe there is finally one thing about my 1989 370LE that is not more complicated than all the other MoHos . All my fuses are behind the outside "hood" right in front on the driver's side. Very easy to get to, and change. No good labeling of what does what, of course , but they are easy to get to. By the way, I do have the place for the inside fuses in the glove box, but it's empty. Just an open hole into the inner workings under the dash when I pull off the velcro attached cover inside the box .

Good luck with your fan switch. I think I do have the same setup with dash heat and air as everyone else of that time period.

Tim

[Chuckles]

That fuse panel must have a very good weatherproof enclosure then.
So there is definitely no other fuse block on the inside of the bulkhead - You DO need to be a contortionist to find it!
Very interesting ... I will explore that later
Thanks
Chuck

[noiva]

Originally Posted by Chuckles

That fuse panel must have a very good weatherproof enclosure then.
So there is definitely no other fuse block on the inside of the bulkhead - You DO need to be a contortionist to find it!
Very interesting ... I will explore that later
Thanks
Chuck

Other than the fuse panel on the charger/converter (located under the dinette seat) I don't have any 12 volt fuses in weatherproof places. They all sit right up high just behind the hood exposed to the weather, except for the litte protection of the hood. I've had no problem with them being outside, but the day is still young . Seriously, this system seems to work as well as any inside enclosed systems I'm familiar with. It's definitely easier to get to. By the way, it's a Gillig design so that may explain the location, but I'm not sure.

Tim