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Old 12-23-2009, 08:09 PM   #15
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John

If the pump sounds like an ambulance is chasing you you probably have a restricted filter . The pump can be a little noisy and work fine, but it's very likely that a restricted filter is causing the excess noise. Try that first.

When you say it's, "like the key is turned off" has the engine stalled or is it running with no power? That could indicate another problem.
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Old 12-23-2009, 11:10 PM   #16
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It sounds like when you shut off for a few minutes and then start it back up you are burning the fuel in the carb bowl then run out of fuel.

Why would you run out of fuel?

A restricted filter but this usually shows up as "idles great" but backfires or runs bad pulling a hill or under a greater than normal load.

My theory;

A small hole in the diaphragm of the mechanical fuel pump allowing gas to drain back into the tank when you shut down.
When you start back up you burn the fuel in the carb then run out of gas, you also get a shot of air to the carb before the pump pressurizes, crank it back up and all is OK.

This would not happen on the 1st crank-up of the day since you crank it longer before starting and the choke helps pull extra fuel.

I wonder if it would happen if you just let it idle for a short time before taking off?
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Old 12-24-2009, 09:33 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
John

If the pump sounds like an ambulance is chasing you you probably have a restricted filter . The pump can be a little noisy and work fine, but it's very likely that a restricted filter is causing the excess noise. Try that first.

When you say it's, "like the key is turned off" has the engine stalled or is it running with no power? That could indicate another problem.
Robert,
The engine if NOT Running

The 1st. time this happened, It was hot, we had gone to Millersburg tire and had all new skins put on.
We stopped outside of Loudonville for ice cream.

I started the engine, pulled to the stop sign. then onto the road, went about 100 yards. and started to accelerate ? fluttered like ? Pumped the peddle but she was Flat Dead !!! We sat 60 seconds on the road, It then started and ran all the way back to Marion Ohio but has been doing the same thing ever sinse ??? I thought Vapor Lock ? But now that it is cold ? same thing.

When you say it's, "like the key is turned off" has the engine stalled or is it running with no power? That could indicate another problem. __________________
LOST IN THE SIXTIES


I am going to install the fuel filters that I have in Hand and will now pull off the fuel Pump that sites in front of the tank !

Thank You all, Hope we are getting close ???
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Old 12-24-2009, 10:06 AM   #18
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The electric fuel pump may run fine but not pump fuel. That was the case with mine. I checked it by pulling off the outlet hose and turning it on with a battery charger, the motor would run but no fuel came out. I then replaced the fuel pump and did the same test and it pumped a stream of fuel. The reason I checked mine, when under load it ran out of gas, had to back off the trottle to keep it running, it was primarily doing it going up small hills.
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Old 12-24-2009, 10:51 AM   #19
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Thank You gunner

Merry Christmas everyone !!!!
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Old 01-02-2010, 09:32 AM   #20
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Don't forget the Ignition Module

Guys, I went through a similar process with this--engine stopped dead shortly after starting. I replaced the fuel pump but that did not fix it. The problem was a failing ignition module in the distributor.

Check for spark immediately after it dies. The ignition module, when it is failing, sometimes does so when it reaches a certain temperature.

I posted this issue last summer.
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Old 01-02-2010, 09:54 AM   #21
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Could be Auretrvr, but cold start or hot ! after I restart the engine it will run all day long

and it runs GOOD

When we get home from New Jersy, about the tenth of January

1. replace ALL fuel filters ! they are in the coach a waiting even the carb filter

2. Pull the distributor and check all as many have suggested. also I will purchase a duplicate of ALL electrical parts including the ignition module and fresh grease

3. I will also check ALL vacuum lines and the suspect choke ??? for proper operation

Then I will give you all that have helped a complete report !!!

Thank you and Happy new years

John
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Old 01-02-2010, 09:59 AM   #22
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawas"
 
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Thumbs up

John,

Sounds like you got most base's covered...awaiting up-date.

Ain't Stream'n FUN!!!
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Old 01-02-2010, 03:08 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
John,

Sounds like you got most base's covered...awaiting up-date.

Ain't Stream'n FUN!!!

thank you Robert, you always have sound and well thought out advice

your mention of, If it sounds like the fuel pump is chasing you ? Hit Home for sure.

Happy new Years every one
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Old 01-14-2010, 05:00 PM   #24
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I started the 345 cold today, tapped the peddle to set the choke ! started right off and DID not die after 60 seconds or so like it did Wed. AM after we got home from NJ.

So Wednesday I figured the 1st. thing would be to check the Carburetor visually and check all the vacuum lines. The vacuum lines all Looked good and tight connections were confirmed ! Like many of you suggested !!! thank you !

there is a 12 volt plug in conectionright in front of the choke adjustment knob assembly that was bent in some and I straightend it out but a non issue I believe.

Prety dirty exterior ??? So I sprayed a can of Electric Motor coil cleaner that I had on all of the exterior all the way around ! and especially the Auto Choke area where it seemed Gummed up good. I wiped it down and sprayed agin then after it dried I coated Everything, Linkage and All with a good coating of My favorite WD40 !!

conected everything back up and ran it for 20 minutes or so to clean out the cleaner and WD40 and warm everything up !

When I started her Up this AM, Wow, Just like it suposed to be !!!

I did take her into town to top off the gass and re fill the propane tank and she started and ran smooth right through every time ! So, when it warms up a Bit ???

I will replace all of the new fuel filters and be ready for the road.

Now because of all the talk about a spare parts list from may !!! I thought I was doing good ???

I also stopped by the Hubbards Auto parts store and gave them a grocery parts List.

1. Starter Motor
2. Alternator
3. New belts, serpintine and Air conditioning belt ! Is there another 89 345 ???
4. coil, and all else except the actual distributor itself ??? but everything that goes inside. My Plug wires are H.D. and new 2,000 Mile on them

5. Radiator hoses Upper and lower plus the short one lower.

6. relay coil under the dog house to the front right.

7. Engine oil and filter, enough to do an oil change !

8. 2 qts dextron Transmission Oil and a tube of some RED they recomendid It is In !

9. Tools and Jacks galore !!! All new tires and an allighment

So Off to
florida we go tommorow, Friday afternoon !!! Can not waite !!! ,
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Old 01-14-2010, 08:18 PM   #25
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawas"
 
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Great news John...glad it wasn't a serious mechanical problem.

Looks like you have a pretty good "trip kit". (pantyhose= short term belt) Don't wait to replace those belts and keep the old for an emergency. A selection of stainless hose clamps can come in handy too and don't forget a quality roll of quack tape & wd40.

Stream Safe....have fun.
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Old 01-15-2010, 06:24 AM   #26
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Hi John;
With as much as I hate to tell you the hurting truth, there are issues that all of you owners of motor homes are facing and will continue to do so unless you address the problems with E-10 fuel.

Today's fuel is laced with 10% of ethanol. Boating industry in which I am heavily involved faced that problem the first year the fuel was introduced. The problem relates to length of time that fuel is stored in your tank. In the automobile which is used daily fuel is rotated constantly with refueling. This is not the case with boats which go into winter storage for months. Untreated E-10 fuel after couple of months goes through a phase separation. The alcohol and the moisture which alcohol attracts separates and sinks to the bottom clogging carbs and injectors.
Eventually it becomes a paste like white sediment.

The remedy and prevention is found only by treating the stored fuel in advance at fill up. If you know that the fuel in your motor home may not be used up in next two months treat it with StarTron Enzyme Fuel Treatment. This product is made by Star Brite specifically for preventing fuel separation phase. 8 Oz bottle treats 128 gallons and retails for $13.75 and it can be purchased from most boat suppliers. Those of you who use their motor homes very frequently may not experience those issues but as soon as you place untreated fuel it into storage you will know what I am talking about. Since the introduction of E-10 fuel, my boat bussiness has cleaned and rebuilt more carbs in past three years that we did the previous forty years. Clogged up carbs also cause the engine to run in lean condition which causes damage due to burned out valves from excessive heat.

Carbureated engines experiencing any running or lack of power issues need to have carb's cleaned out. Injected engines should be treated with injector cleaning additive. E-10 fuel dissolves fiberglass fuel tanks in boats. It dissolves non alcohol resistant fuel lines and carb's components.
Take it for what is worth, we have been through it all. Do not allow your fuel to sit in your tank untreated for prolonged periods of time. Same goes for Diesel Engines which should be treated with Bio Diesel additive.
Thanks, "Boatdoc"
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:22 AM   #27
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Great Updates, Thanks - 454 dies at the stoplight

Revisiting this thread since my '83 started dying at idle at stoplights...

Engine starts and runs beautifully but on slowing to a stop will occasionally just quit--and start right up immediately and run fine again. Filters, ignition module and engine fuel pump were replaced in 2010.

This post about the damage by E10 fuel really seems to hit home. I did not treat my fuel and have several times had to buy E10 because it was the only type available.

Do you have tips for those of us who ignored common sense and now have to deal with the consequences?

Sounds like replacing the filters and treating the gas would be for starters, right?

Thanks!
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Old 04-17-2013, 01:25 PM   #28
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I wrapped the hard fuel line from the mechanical fuel pump to the carburetor with header wrap to get rid of a similar problem. The line was apparently soaking up too much heat. No symptoms on our last trip, but our next one will be in warmer weather...
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