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Old 02-29-2004, 10:03 AM   #15
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Wink

I'm going to remove the windows again a look at the problem . I'm thinking i will burn a hole with a large nail. the channel i remove did not fit tight against the front edge of the window frame. but was glued in place??? think i will replace the lip seal also and should fix the window problems for a while.
the lock problem i could have fixed with a switch of the locking piece from one old lock to the other. as the top part is all that is used. also going to try to find some spring steel, to make new springs for the new locks. Kim said they are $110 each now...the new passenger side lock works i reshaped the spring a smidgen and put it back together. no luck with the new drivers side lock spring.
the pin holes on the old lock is tight. you cant get a screwdriver in to pry the pin out. i beat on the back while compressing the spring and the pin came part way out , enough to pry out with a small screwdriver.
i wonder if kim might have the springs or the spring steel??i didnt ask. think i will .
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Old 02-29-2004, 10:11 AM   #16
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Alan we can do a demo for the get together. my material will be new enough to tolerate r&r . if there is and interest. maybe i can get a demo on polishing my front bumper in return. my lip seal isn't glued on . do you really have to glue on ??? would like to know for sure as i probably visit sonny next week and get the material i need.
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Old 02-29-2004, 11:51 AM   #17
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Hey I like that idea. I am going to try and buy that grey/felt weatherstrip that PeterH used in his. If I can get it locally. I fell like it might have less problems holding onto dirt and bug debris.

Menwhile I pulled out my dinette table to make a new one. Using birch faced plywood for the 2 sections, and probably the old hardware, although I might use a different hinge instead of the 2 small ones on there now.
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Old 02-29-2004, 02:56 PM   #18
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I used a die grinder and cut off wheel to cut the slots above the weep holes in mine. Silicone the heck out of the track, it keeps the window free and repels the water.

I have the part number for the weatherstrip (at least what worked on mine), if you need it I will dig it out. It is (was) still available from AS.

John
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Old 02-29-2004, 03:09 PM   #19
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the holes are done. tryed to punch hole with screwdriver couldn't do it . decided to try the hot tip trick that worked great. the fuzzy channel is made out of a nylon material. the hot flat blade screwdriver went thru it like it was butter. used a 1/4 wide flat blade screwdriver wiggled it around and made a nice hole. if water doesn't come thru that i got a problem. and the hole shouldn't close up on me. havet two fans running to dry out the carpet. as son as the carpet dries of she goes to the storage shed....
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Old 02-29-2004, 03:21 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by ALANSD
Inland Rv sells this stuff also look for fuzzy Schlegle channel on thier site. Peter used a grey rubber replacement he got from a local auto glass place.
I have this on my to do list as well.
I first used the fuzzy stuff with the metal inside and really hated it. Made the window too tight, the corners too bulky and the weep holes very hard to cut.
The stuff I found in the local glass shops weatherstripping catalog comes in 8' lenght/$12.- each. The part number was AS126896.
Its a perfect fit for the channel. I used the same material to redo all the windows as well.
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Old 02-29-2004, 06:15 PM   #21
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I have been hanging onto the printed version of our post on this when you did it, headed to the shop this week to see if they carry or can get it for me. Meanwhile the table wood is being cut and I am deciding on the hardware.
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Old 02-29-2004, 07:57 PM   #22
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Alan
it takes a bit over 7 feet for a window. if it comes in 8 ft length you will need 2 lengths or 16 ft for the cockpit windows. my other windows i dont open so wont be spending bucks on them.
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Old 03-02-2004, 08:38 AM   #23
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By popular demand.....

More info on the channel weatherstripping.
Manufacturer: CRLaurence Co
Part number: AS126896
Web site for product info and dealer find:
CRLaurence co

These are for 1963-1966 Valiant and Dart
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Old 03-02-2004, 10:54 AM   #24
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Thanks Peter I called a local Binswanger Glass dealer who seemed very uncooperative.
Funny I had a 63 Valiant....great slant 6!
The guy called back to ask me if I knew this was for a 63 Valiant!
Two 8 foot sections cost 20 dollars and change, but they could not get it for me. I ended up using Restoration Specialities in Pennsylvania for this item.
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Old 10-25-2004, 12:43 PM   #25
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here is the part desribed:

CRL Flexible Flocked Rubber Glass Run Channels for 1963-1966 Valiant and Dart are OEM quality and will provide you with the best results when replacing or repairing damaged or missing channels in older vehicles. These 100% rubber channels will not rust or corrode like wire loom channels can and are the perfect upgrade when replacing older style channels. Although CRL states the original applications for these channels, by using the measurements shown you can use these channels on numerous other vehicles. All channels are Electrostatic Flocked Rubber to protect the glass and provide quiet operation.
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Old 10-31-2004, 06:24 PM   #26
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I installed one window with the all rubber flocked window channel. It went very well, thanks to having watched Al at our rally last weekend. The rubber when siliconed pulled right thru on top and set up just fine. The window slides easily now.
My question is on the weep holes, should I poke thru from the outside now to get a hole in the rubbber? What is the suggested method for the holes?
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Old 11-29-2004, 06:12 PM   #27
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Alan:

I wrote down a step-by-step procedure based on AL's process. His method requires the weep holes to be made from the outside of the motorhome. Careful attention must be paid to the placement of the weep holes to ensure they line up with the holes in the window frame.

Step 9: Making the weep holes: This process is performed outside the motor home and is the most advanced part of the process. A heated tool of some type will be required to burn a hole in the outer side of the weather stripping for the weep holes. A small acetylene torch may be used to heat a small flat head screwdriver for this operation. The screwdriver must be heated enough to burn through the fabric of the Schleagle strip. At your marks, place a single hole on the bottom edge of the side of the strip so water will drain out and exit through the slots in the window frame. Our holes were as wide as the screwdriver (8th of an inch) and about an 8th of an inch in height—a small square large enough to allow water to drain successfully.

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Old 10-22-2006, 11:11 AM   #28
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Step by step for windows?

I searched but only found Step #9 described. Was there ever a full description of this job?
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