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Old 05-10-2016, 03:43 PM   #1
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1953 21' Flying Cloud
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Battery Gremlin

So I can fully charge my battery out of the coach and put it in. With it just sitting there, no key in the ignition the battery just goes dead after a few days. It is a 1985 345 with the 454. Is there a issue that these coaches have had before that I can check before I dig into everything?


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Old 05-10-2016, 06:15 PM   #2
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Does the battery go dead just sitting and not connected?
Charge the battery, and hook up the battery. After a few hours, go out and place your hand on the housing of the alternator. If it's warm, it has an internal short, and will need to be repaired or replaced. There are several other things it could be, such as a relay stuck closed, or a light in the glovebox on, or the power step not retracting all the way.
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Old 05-10-2016, 09:38 PM   #3
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1953 21' Flying Cloud
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Battery Gremlin

Well I had the battery tested today at the local parts store and it passed. I charged my battery all the way and took a reading. I will check it in the morning and then again when I get home from work.
I would think the parts store tester would tell me for sure since they do load test it. The PO just put a new alternator and starter in it. I am going to redo all the ground wires tomorrow also.


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Old 05-12-2016, 12:56 AM   #4
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Disconnect stereo, step switch pigtail underneath step and LPG detector - these are all phantom load known to drain batteries, although if they did a drop test, and the battery is good, you wouldn't expect them to draw that much current.
Can you read what the draw is on the batteries when ignition is off? If you can do this, get someone else to pull individual fuses to try and identify which circuit is drawing current.
Are both battery banks dying or just your starter?


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Old 05-12-2016, 04:53 AM   #5
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Just the motor battery is draining. I did a amp draw test just before the storm hit and I was getting almost a full amp of draw. After it stopped raining I went back outside and started poking around I could hear a clicking sound when I would put the neg side of the battery cable back on. It is coming from the compressor. Sounds like the contact is pulling in but the compressor is not starting. It started raining again so I had to call it a night. I did find a hard wired switch for the compressor that would turn it on. I am not up on how much air pressure I should have so I didn't let it run long. It never did run when I hooked up the battery but kept making the clicking noise.


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Old 05-12-2016, 06:20 AM   #6
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Sounds like you have found the culprit. If it isn't the compressor, you might have a fault on the solenoid (or switch) on the back of the battery box.
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Old 05-12-2016, 07:33 AM   #7
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You are right to look for phantom loads that could be discharging your battery. A quick way to know if they're there, but not to find each one, is to disconnect both battery cables and use an ohm meter to measure between them. Anything less than infinity means there's a path for electricity to flow somewhere.

If that test shows less than infinite resistance, keep tracking down phantom loads. If it does show infinity, know that a battery that has been sitting unused for some time can form sulfate on the plates. A sulfated battery will act like what you're describing--it will take a charge, and even look good on a hydrometer, but not hold a charge for long. Might even hold a charge long enough to fool the auto supply store's load test, right after charging.
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Old 05-12-2016, 09:10 PM   #8
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So today I started digging more and poking around with the old volt meter. In the cabinet, curb side bed room, full bed. I find this box with a switch. 
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This switch will turn the compressor on when everything is hooked up. Behind the box I found the pump and pressure switch and also a solenoid. 
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The solenoid was energizing as soon as I hooked up the battery causing my 12v @ almost 1 amp draw. I looked though the book and found the hot wire on the solenoid starts at the fuse panel in the dash. It is just hooked to a constant power supply without a fuse.
Once I pulled this wire from the solenoid my power draw went away. Also the switch no longer worked when the wire was unhooked. My book says that the pressure switch is set for 85 pounds and should shut off at 100 pounds. I have 65 psi in the tank. 
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The pressure switch remained close the whole time regardless of power.
So now I wonder what is wrong here. Why is the a additional switch for the compressor? Why is the solenoid getting constant power? Could it be because my pressure switch is bad and won't open? Ahhhh the fun of a new project.


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