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09-24-2015, 04:20 PM
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#21
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Airstream Driver
1994 30' Excella
1992 35' Airstream 350
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 5,224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler
Even if it's a carburetor engine it could still be a fuel pump issue. There should be an electric booster pump close to the fuel tank. If this pump fails or is failing fuel delivery to the carburetor will be impacted causing low pressure to the carburetor.
Something to consider.
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I suggested fuel starvation in the beginning and the plug looks way too lean to me.
The symptoms of fuel starvation under load are very similar to a missing engine. Years ago I was going up a 10 k pass in Colorado in my 79 excella, when the engine started to sputter. Prior to my trip I installed a secondary electric fuel pump by the tank with a switch on the dashboard. Once i flipped the switch all troubles went away.
I would double check the fuel delivery components. Carburetors have an internal cylinder type cartridge filter that can cause all kinds of problems.
PS: Look at my avatar on the left thats on the summit of that 10 K pass (Molas Pass). Proof that I made it
__________________
1994 30' Excella Front Kitchen Trailer
1990 25' Excella Travel trailer
1992 350LE Classic Touring Coach
AIR #13
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09-24-2015, 05:47 PM
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#22
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Rivet Master
1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond
, Kentucky
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,116
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Peter, I totally missed your first post!
I would think if the fuel pump was failing it could run lean if you're not pulling hills but running at a steady high speed. Be interesting to see what Trident ends up finding to be the problem.
Brad
__________________
Air forums # 1674
1974 20' Argosy Motor Home
1975 24' Argosy Motor Home
1974 31' Excella trailer (parting out, as of 4/1/2015 I have wheels & windows left to sell)
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09-25-2015, 06:51 AM
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#23
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Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,530
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I had a very similar problem once when I borrowed my fathers SOB motor home. I finally found the problem in the fuel selector valve as it had two tanks. I only filled the main tank so there was no need to mess with the valve. What I finally found was the fuel selector valve was not opening all the way thus restricting fuel flow through the valve causing a super lean condition.
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10-03-2015, 06:38 PM
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#24
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
1998 30' Cutter Bus (Chevy)
Everson
, Washington
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 112
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We limped from Bar Harbor Maine to Englewood Ohio and found a competent person with an analyzer that also works on trucks and yes even motor homes, problem solved.
I wish I could say that the problem was caused by sun spots, some imaginary hole in the ozone, or that myth sweeping the world, called global warming but I can't.
No the two spark plug wires 1&3 that I didn't have the strength in my hands to change failed. How ? Well I knew the wires got hot right where they pass by the EGR valve so last year I put fire proof white cloth packing ( not asbestos ) material in that space to protect the wires from some of the heat (but apparently not soon enough.) I didn't see it arcing to the block at that point at idle but under a load ( pulling a hill )it took the path of least resistance. By the time the analyzer was put on it had a bad miss at idle making it easier to find.
It's running great will now pass anything but a gas station. We are now at lake Santa Rosa State Park, NM and we couldn't be happier thanks for being there it helped a lot.
Trident
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10-05-2015, 01:19 PM
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#25
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Rivet Master
1992 36' Land Yacht
Grayson
, Georgia
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,724
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After reading this I have only one thing to say... If you haven't done so or can't remember when you have replaced your plugs and wires or performed your basic maintenance then do it now. It's one of the first things I do when purchasing a new (used) vehicle. I change all the fluids, filters, plugs, wires, distributer cap and rotor as standard practice no matter what they look like. Much easier then chasing my tail when driving down the road.
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10-05-2015, 07:43 PM
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#26
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
1998 30' Cutter Bus (Chevy)
Everson
, Washington
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92landyacht
After reading this I have only one thing to say... If you haven't done so or can't remember when you have replaced your plugs and wires or performed your basic maintenance then do it now. It's one of the first things I do when purchasing a new (used) vehicle. I change all the fluids, filters, plugs, wires, distributer cap and rotor as standard practice no matter what they look like. Much easier then chasing my tail when driving down the road.
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Good advice
Would not have helped here, but good advice.
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10-06-2015, 08:30 AM
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#27
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Rivet Master
1992 36' Land Yacht
Grayson
, Georgia
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,724
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Not sure why it wouldn't have helped in your case as well. If all those items were replaced before you hit the road, the issues you've had would never have happened. You basically had bad plug wires from the start and that was never addressed. Still, glad you found the problem and can rest easier now.
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10-07-2015, 10:51 AM
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#28
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
1998 30' Cutter Bus (Chevy)
Everson
, Washington
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92landyacht
Not sure why it wouldn't have helped in your case as well. If all those items were replaced before you hit the road, the issues you've had would never have happened. You basically had bad plug wires from the start and that was never addressed. Still, glad you found the problem and can rest easier now.
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As stated earlier in the letters I mentioned jest some of the things I have changed one year and about 6000 miles ago. I hope I don't need to change platinum plugs and wires every 6000 miles? The EGR valve insulation barrier from the factory had fallen away. I attempted to replace the barrier with material used in a furnaces but I apparently didn't get it in soon enough the damage was all ready started to the (new) wires. I see the tech used my fix after changing the two wires I didn't have the strength in my hands to change. In addition to this I didn't want to change the two wires at the new distributer cap and rotor on the plastic distributer.
Thanks for your input that is good advice to anyone that buys a used vehicle of any kind I have always tried to do jest that in my life.
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10-07-2015, 05:52 PM
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#29
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
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Trident,
The Bosch Platinum Plugs have been in our 06 Burb for 52000mi+.
What is important, (you've already learned?). Is to remove them every 10k or so, wire brush the threads, wipe with Brakleen and coat the inside of the boots with dielectric grease. Its not unusual for todays quality plugs to last 5yrs or more. BUT, when it is time to replace, it helps if you can get them out.
Handy to have in the traveling tool kit...
Bob
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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10-08-2015, 12:34 PM
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#30
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
1998 30' Cutter Bus (Chevy)
Everson
, Washington
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS
Trident,
The Bosch Platinum Plugs have been in our 06 Burb for 52000mi+.
What is important, (you've already learned?). Is to remove them every 10k or so, wire brush the threads, wipe with Brakleen and coat the inside of the boots with dielectric grease. Its not unusual for todays quality plugs to last 5yrs or more. BUT, when it is time to replace, it helps if you can get them out.
Handy to have in the traveling tool kit...
Bob
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Thanks to advice like yours and others we will be better prepared next time out. Dielectric grease is on the way I think the little packet that came with the wire set must have been supper glue!
Thanks
Trident
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