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Old 06-22-2010, 02:54 PM   #1
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Anyone Soundproofed the Genset Compartment?

A oil leak has turned into a bigger project with the possibility of having to pull the unit out...
So I will need to deal the original disintegrating insulation..

What about something like Fatmat/dynamat with its wipe clean foil face for the visible surface. Then I thought that the inner walls(the ones against the interior) could do with something thicker as an undersurface. Then I was concerned that the Fatmat would need to go be stuck to something else for these area
I think the Fatmat could be cut and fitted to the door, floor and outer wall too without hurting airflow, or be affected by oil or water.
I wanted to know if anyone has replaced/reworked the compartment for better soundproofing?
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Old 06-22-2010, 07:23 PM   #2
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Steve,

When I built the tray system for our generator I ended up removing all of the old insulation as it was turning to powder. I decided to try 1/2" silver backed foam board insulation. I can't say that it made a huge difference but it sure didn't hurt any. For it to make any real difference I think it would need to be 1" thick or more which definitely infringes on the inside space of the compartment.

Your suggestion of putting some on the inside of the coach is something to consider.

I'm happy to say it looks like we will be replacing our 7k Kohler with a 6.5 Onan Emerald III out of an 86 345. That is if plans work out like I expect them to.

I'm anxious to see how well the Onan works in comparison to the Kohler.

One other thing I've considered doing is making a cold air intake for the generator. The air gets incredibly hot inside the generator compartment and that is where the generator is getting its air supply. Based on what a cold air intake did for our old Winnebago I'm betting the generator will be happier for it. I'll probably tackle that when I install the Onan.

Brad
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Old 06-24-2010, 01:05 AM   #3
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Thanks Brad,
I am doing research and talking to suppliers....
Will update when I get to it, but just found out I am moving house in 2 weeks...
PITA!
Makes me wanna Fulltime!
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Old 06-24-2010, 02:55 PM   #4
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Thumbs up Anyone Soundproofed the Generator Compartment

Brad:

Temps in our area of operation regularly exceed 95 degrees and I run with the top of the Gen compartment open. Onan recommends such when ambient temp exceeds 90 degrees. Might save you from having to build cold air delivery to the Gen.

Mike
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Old 06-25-2010, 04:36 AM   #5
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Temps in our area of operation regularly exceed 95 degrees and I run with the top of the Gen compartment open. Onan recommends such when ambient temp exceeds 90 degrees. Might save you from having to build cold air delivery to the Gen.
Interesting. I had never heard of leaving the door open but it makes sense. I'll have to do a test using my laser temperature reader. One with the door closed and then another with the door open.

Of course this assumes I can get the Kohler to start this time .

Sometime later this year the Kohler is getting swapped out for an Onan 6.5 out of a 345. I've never been happy with the Kohler and have always like the Onan's.

Brad
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Old 06-25-2010, 05:33 AM   #6
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I am currious and maybe yall can answer this but; how come you dont install a cold air induction system to the genset instead of open doors? One such as what comes from K&N Filters.
Seems to me this would bring in enough cool air to keep the temps down and at the same time you wont have to leave any doors open to invite thieves or critters.

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Old 06-25-2010, 10:08 AM   #7
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Great Idea, but there are two issues here...
Engine intake and cooling.
On my Kohler, the Airfilter/intake is on the top of the engine, and it would be cool to measure the inlet, and find a airfilter and box from something at the junkyard, like say a Jeep Cherokee... use the flexible rubber neck to go from there to the wall of the compartment, then use the airbox mounted against the door...
Result, a cold air intake with a commonly available flat filter!
Thats easy, but with gensets being air cooled we would have to figure out where the cooling air is drawn in and add ducting to the ouside..
Or maybe just mount some of those big computer fans on the door to blow air in or suck it out?
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Old 06-25-2010, 10:34 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
Great Idea, but there are two issues here...
Engine intake and cooling..
Or maybe just mount some of those big computer fans on the door to blow air in or suck it out?
I was wondering about this also .Like the electric fans on my engine. could be hooked up for gen set. would you want to push air in or suck it out maybe one fan going each way.














i w
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Old 06-25-2010, 11:00 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
Great Idea, but there are two issues here...
Engine intake and cooling.
On my Kohler, the Airfilter/intake is on the top of the engine, and it would be cool to measure the inlet, and find a airfilter and box from something at the junkyard, like say a Jeep Cherokee... use the flexible rubber neck to go from there to the wall of the compartment, then use the airbox mounted against the door...
Result, a cold air intake with a commonly available flat filter!
That is pretty much what I was planning on doing although I don't plan on mounting it against the door, I'm going to route it under the Motorhome through the floor.

Quote:
Thats easy, but with gensets being air cooled we would have to figure out where the cooling air is drawn in and add ducting to the ouside..
Or maybe just mount some of those big computer fans on the door to blow air in or suck it out?
The cooling air only comes in through the door on our 310. I don't believe ducting would make any difference, especially when parked.

I'm not overly concerned about trying to keep the compartment cool, these generators are designed to run in confined spaces. My only reason for wanting a cold air intake is its a proven fact that an engine runs more efficiently if it has cool air coming in.

It always makes me laugh when I see all the hot rodders out there that love to show you the chrome air filter cover they put on their carburetor, eliminating the snout or hose to the front. All they have done is make their engine a little less efficient .

Brad
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Old 06-25-2010, 11:09 AM   #10
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The engine driven flywheel fan is quite capable; if you can route either the suction air (to the intake in the middle of the flywheel) or the exhaust air (typically over the exhaust valves) from/to the outside the compartment temperature should drop a lot. Doing so on the suction side is prob. easier, and plumbing the engine air intake into that plenum will insure that the engine has a fresh, cool air supply as well.

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Old 06-25-2010, 12:30 PM   #11
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All good info exchange and good ideas...
A related story..
I have another project on at the moment, and have to rework the genset position and enclosure on it. Its a Dodge van, with a Generac 5000 in the rear. I am lowering it to try to make the floor flatter, but without killing the departure angle.
It has a downdraw fan on the top... I am planning to make the box tighter to the sides and top, but have a raised "scoop area" over the engine cooling fan that will draw air from below or the rear. I think I will end up with a bump in the floor, which I can live with..
I already ripped out the original box... and found the sound/heat insulation was poor and the top, and non existant on the sides...
Here is a pic of the naked genset in its current position...
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