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Old 02-10-2007, 03:46 PM   #43
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Dash

Made some progress on my dash rejuvenation. Decided to kinda stick with original as much as possible....maybe go with something little more nice later...but at least I can run with this. I read someones thread about wanting to wire up a central cannon plug so as to make dash removal somewhat easier. I found with my dash there are only like four wires that need to be disconnected....along with one cannon plug, I've made those 4 wires easy disconent contectors so future removals should be somewhat easier. My only advice to those wanting to remove their dash but are a bit hesitant.... The removal is pretty straight forward if all you need to do is removal to get at something farther back. If however you need to remove all gauges for one reason or another....be sure and do a good job of marking everything you take off. I used different color tape....about 6 dif colors. One thing I learned that I wasn't expecting....the headlight switch knob unscrews....it doesn't pull off like the wiper knobs do. Before I put everything back together I checked all bulbs with an ohmmeter to make sure all bulbs were good.
With that out of the way....my project for tomorrow is to troubleshoot....and hopfully FIX....the reason my heater control cables appear to be frozen. I'm pretty sure I will find the water mixing valve to be bound up.
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Old 02-10-2007, 09:03 PM   #44
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That looks like a good days work. Where were you worried about the plastic being brittle? That dash looks pretty good.
For heater parts you need if you can't find em locally...Mill Supply Index
And for much much more in the way of P30 chassis stuff.
Just go to heater parts, then valves for what you're in need of.
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Old 02-10-2007, 09:56 PM   #45
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Dash

Thanks Glen for the Mills web site....that looks like a good place to look for parts. I haven't even started on my heat problem....I did lift the inside hood to take a look in the engine compartment.... someone said that's where the heater water mixing valve would be located. Not there....or at least I could not find it with a quick look. I followed the two cables from the heater control and they seem to stay out of the engine compartment. While I was looking in eng comp I could see the full run of the heater hoses...where I would expect to find the mixing valve....no luck. I'll hit it again tomorrow....like I said....I only took a quick look tonight. I'm sure I'll find my problem tomorrow.
As far as the cracking of my dash....I checked several places about someone repairing the cracks....the cracks are along the top lip that hooks over the froward dash. No one wanted to mess with it so I decided to do the best I could in making a simple repair. I used what I've always call speed tape....in aviation they sometimes call it 500 mile per hour tape....anyway....it's aluminum Tape with a highly sticky back side. I put several layers along the hidden side of the crack..... that restored the streagth. You can't see any repair from the front so I am just going to talk myself into the fact that it's not perfect but it will do until a later date.
Still haven't done anything with my bathroom sink project....seems like the day just flys by.
Charles
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Old 02-11-2007, 07:18 AM   #46
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Charles, have you followed the heater hoses out front via the engine access drop down? You may find the valve in line out in front of the heater box. I doubt it's inside the box as the valve will be on the supply line and has to be ahead of the heater core.
If the arrangment is like my 84 the access panel is right in front of the passenger footwell. On mine it's a one screw removal on the trim panel. Tight fit to get at the core and A/C condensor but then you get to the cover with it's 8 screws.
I wish my rig was in the driveway and not at the dealership today. I want to go out and trace the wires back to see how many major connections I have. I had never taken the approach you did and am happy you reported back on what you found.
I know I'll have more than four as I've got lock, isle lights, outside lights, aux heater, etc.etc.etc. switches to contend with. I'd really like to get it out so I can find the culpret that's got me driving in the dark without dash lights.
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Old 02-11-2007, 08:58 AM   #47
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Dash

Glen

I guess I might have been a little misleading in my description of my dash removal. I too have those switches...walk way light switch....map light switch.... those type of things I just remove the mounting nut from the switch and leave the switch wires connected. I guess how I approach something that has the potential of being complicated to put back together....I disconnect in such a way that it is almost self explanatory (without much thought) how it goes back together. For instance....I would never disconnect all the things connected to the heater control mechanism....I just remove the four screws that holds the assembly to the dash. Bottom line....there is more to disconnect than just 4 wires but if done right....upon reinstallation....it takes very little thought as to what goes where. Now in my case.....I needed to remember...(mark in some way) only 4 wires that I could possibly cross (mess up) when I go to reinstall....other than that...all those things dangling from their wires seem to just tell where they want to be reinstalled. I certainly don't mean to be talking down to you....just wanted to explain myself that there indeed is a little more to dash removal than 4 wires....but its not hard
I will look at my dash to see if I can give some hints on your instru light problem.
Charles
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Old 02-11-2007, 10:03 AM   #48
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No worries Charles. I'm not really of the opinion that Airstream made anything easy. Our coaches are many years apart and I've got a few more items on my board than your earlier coach.
The dash light is traced to the headlight switch where I find that the center connectors had melted the block that attached the wires to the headlight switch. Thank God that I have headlights and running lights.
I've not had time to get into it but obviously have a dead short on the instrument panel somewhere.
I've now got to go scavange the block from a scrap yard.
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Old 02-11-2007, 05:33 PM   #49
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Mother of all Dash removal

Now this was a DASH REMOVAL to write home about. Actually it came out pretty easy. about 10 screws along the windshield edge come out...then about 8 pop type rivets drilled out along the front of the lower dash ( knee area) and all there is is about 6 skat air hoses (think thats what they are called). My skat hoses fell about in my hand so they will all be replaced with new. I wanted to take this portion of the dash out in order to (1) do a good refurbishing and cleaning but also (2) I felt it needed to come out to fix my heating problem.
I found the water mixing valve all rusted up solid. Had to remove the heater core in order to get at the valve. I think it would be possible to do the replacing of this valve without taking the upper dash off....but it sure made removal of the heater core a lot easier. I certainly would not recommend taking the upper dash out just to get the core out.
Once I got the water shut off valve out (mixing valve) I loaded it up with wd 40 and I think I just might be able to use it again.
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Old 02-11-2007, 06:41 PM   #50
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Wow, you go boy!! Please, don't use that valve again unless you soak the thing and then decide to use it again.... they're too cheap new.
Looks like a good time to seal, insulate, soundproof the driver/copilot floor area.
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Old 02-11-2007, 06:53 PM   #51
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The last time we bought one of those valves I think it was under $15 dollars but regardless, they are so cheap and then you have no hassles. If you have the heater core out you just may want to consider having it checked out at a radiator repair shop. They go away and are pretty messy when they do. If it turns out it needs to be redone have it repaired, don't take an offshore elcheapo replacement. They have a fraction of the life span and are very poorly/cheaply made.

Man, you are really tearing into that rig. You are going to have one sweet unit when you are done.
Barry
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Old 02-11-2007, 10:04 PM   #52
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water valve

I agree wholeheartily with both of you about installing a new valve....but.... in this town (small) I bet I could not find one of these if I went to every business in town. I went to the Chev dealer the other day....I said 1978 and they would hardly finish talking to me. After saying things like boy that is old....and why would you mess with it....they finally said they couldn't help me. Yes....I'm sure I could find a water valve that fits a 5/8th heater hose...but if the valve is just a little differant I don't think it would work because of the very limited space that this valve is installed in. The reason the heater core had to come out was because my hand could not fit into the space this valve is installed in. Now I will admit....I've been wrong many many times before....and because of that....I'm going to go look for this valve tomorrow....and I will eat the crow if I find one At this point I have not made the decision to reuse this water valve....I'm letting it soak overnite.....it works right now but is slightly stiff...if it doesn't completely free up by in the morning...I will do whatever I have to do to get a new valve...perhaps mail order.
I appreciate you guys input....really I do....

Charles
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Old 02-11-2007, 10:55 PM   #53
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My shut off valve looked in better shape than that. I tried freeing it up with no luck. It would open and close but the control wire kept flipping off at the dash control. I live in canada and I bought one at the local chev dealer and could not get exactly the same one cost me $100.00 so save it if you can. Your price would be probably $70-$80 new.
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Old 02-12-2007, 07:41 AM   #54
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control cable

I think the control cable at the dash unit was not engineered properly. I found my cable had come off and was kinked. I believe the manufacture placed the first clamp too far away from the attach point....in my case it was about 4 to 5 inches. That distance defeats the mechanical advantage. I think in my case the cable came off years ago and due to years of not being used the valve froze up. I will move this clamp more to the end of the cable.
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Old 02-12-2007, 09:22 PM   #55
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Dash

Here's a picture of my refurbished dash...it turned out pretty good I think...well worth the effort of taking it out
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Old 02-12-2007, 09:37 PM   #56
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Charles, I think that in other trucks and RV's I've owned the valve sticking was what caused the cable to kink. Once it goes you're done. No amount of reconnecting ever works if the resistance at the valve is to much. Keeping the valve moving free and replacing the kinked cable, then making sure it's held at both ends in the proper orientation is key.
It's a control think....
Looking for the photo of the resto... I can only imagine you're working to repost.
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