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Old 02-03-2007, 02:10 PM   #15
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Boy that had to be a chilly ride home Charles! I'm actually changing the engine thermostat in Airstream One tomorrow. Winter had been quite mild until January. I was going to tough it out until I looked at the weather forecast for Asheville NC next week. I've got calls up there Monday and Tuesday and the highs are below freezing.
How warm did the engine get while coming home? You may have a summer thermostat in it and just need to make that change. Or.... check the coolant hoses on top of the motor. You'll find the heat selector cable may be broken or damaged and not moving the heat valve.
Not sure about your dangle of wires, sorry.
Looking forward to seeing your interior photos.
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Old 02-03-2007, 05:04 PM   #16
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Heat

Glenn

I haven't even started on the heat problem yet....I started pulling the instrument panel back just to get a peek at the heater controls. I found both cables...one for the temp control and one to go from heat to air....both cables are bent....the one fo for temp control bent and disconnected. Haven't gone any father with it....I'm sure the heat control valve must be screwed up. On top of that....the heater fan does not work....haven't checked that out yet either....my guess is it's not getting power.
I worked today on interior lights....I got them all working except for the ones above the kitchen sink. I'm now sure that those wires that are disconnected goes to those lights. I can't figure out how to get the light lense off. The lense is about 3 inches wide by about 2feet long. It appears it should just pop right off for changing lightbulbs.....but mine doesn't pop. I'v tried prying with a screwdriver but don't want to break it.....any suggestions?????
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Old 02-03-2007, 06:11 PM   #17
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Hello tn2
in your pictures see the one with the passenger seat removed that is where the converter is . it is in that box. also in the first post picture of the wires is that a switch on the yellow and red wires? the light covering comes off by squeezing the cover in . look real close along the cover and you can see the tabs that hold them in.
hope that this helps out in some way
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Old 02-03-2007, 07:22 PM   #18
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Charles, we just got back from an early movie and I picked up the new 195 degree thermostat so that i can do my swap in the a.m. I'm going to bet that if you look under the dog house (engine cover) you'll see the heater hose with the lever action gate valve. My bets are that it's in the off position.
If the engine is running do you hear the vaccum door open and close when you select heat or vent? If not it may be a vaccum situation too.
I found that I also had to lubricate the HVAC door as it was not opening all the way.
Airstream used Dodge controls on our MoHo's so that may help you too.
If it's the same in your vintage you'll find all this in the area just ahead of the passenger footwell.
Your fan problem is likely a fuse... if you're lucky.
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Old 02-03-2007, 07:28 PM   #19
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Congratulations on getting your rig home in one piece. I made a drive from Fort Worth to Nashville with an unproven 345 Airstream and understand exactly how nervewracking it can be. You might check with an automotive "paintless" dent removal place....you would be amazed at what they can do!
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Old 02-03-2007, 08:37 PM   #20
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tn2, not sure if you're plugged to shore power, but check those wires with it unplugged and just onj 12 volt. If battery works (interior lights operate as you say) make sure they are either 12 volt or 120volt before you work on them to avoid shock or destroying anything you wire to them.
As for the light cover over the sink, I'd wait to squeeze it out until alittle warmer so you don't shatter it in the cold. They do come out, just need some care and persuation.
Do you not have a hood w/ exhaust fan above your stove? I assume your stove is next (to the left) of your sink.
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Old 02-03-2007, 08:44 PM   #21
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We have some "heavy"gauge wires that just lay in the bottom of our upper tambor storage cabinets near the front of the cabinet. I've traced them to be 12 volts, but haven't cut them to find out what they go to. I just taped over them so they won't snag anything being taken out of the cabinet.
Do you know where your 12 volt fuse block is? Ours is in the riser just behind the passenger seat, about a 8" x 8" access door with HD glass type fuses for the 12 volt systems within the MH. Do you have the original manuals for your MH? I would imagine that yours is pretty close to the 79 AS MH's.
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Old 02-03-2007, 09:27 PM   #22
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tn2:
Don't feel too bad about those light lenses. I have tried everything to get mine out: leaving them on high, too warm up, heating up with a hair dryer, everything I can think of. They still feel like they will break if I try to get them off. They all work, but somehow there are a bunch of dead bugs inside. If you figure it out, let me know. Were all rooting for you. It's great to see some Moho posts. Ron
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Old 02-04-2007, 07:49 AM   #23
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Charles, push up and in on one side only. There is a little lip holding the edge in on each side. Once you get the front side out the back will release. The compression factor on the lens is lower this was too.
BTW have you left neutral or lower feedback for the guy who sold this item to you?
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Old 02-04-2007, 08:41 AM   #24
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If you can find Bretts adventure posted here, it has a greattale of driving a sight unseen Argosy purchase cross country.
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Old 02-04-2007, 06:27 PM   #25
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Well the case of "Where do these wires go" has been solved. They all go to the two lights above the sink and stove. Boy ...that took a full day of work. The way I finally figured it out was to take the plastic lenses off the lights and the swich out of the wall.... then through a hit and miss troubleshooting I finally got the wire hooked up so the low light and the high light levels work. I first had to change about 10 of the 20 bulbs in those two light assemblies. It works great now. Kinda puzzled over what would burn that many bulbs out....overvoltage no doubt...but what causes an overvoltage in 12 volt system. It was a job getting the lense off from the two lights....I understand this is a common problem in Argosy MH. What I did was use long putty knife....the one you use to do dry walling with. It has a thin blade on it about 8 inches long....with the thin blade you are able to get in under the plastic lense and pop it out. I actually used this blade and another putty knife that was smaller....used them together. They still came out kinda hard but it worked. Once I got the lense down it was obvious that was where the wires went. Sure would help to have the original maintenance manual for this MH. I think every thing in this MH made of plastic has become very brittle from baking in the AZ sun. All you have to do is look at some things and they break. One of my roof vent fans was not working.....just from setting so long. I took it down....took it apart....cleaned the rust from rear bearing....put it back together....hooked it up temporialy....it worked great.... slipped out of my hands about 6 inches off the floor....Plastic blade shattered into millon piece. I was being careful of that "cook" blade too....oh well....now I need a fan blade. Least of my worries LOL.
Thanks to all you people that helped with those wires....it really looks nice to have those lights working.
Charles
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Old 02-04-2007, 08:58 PM   #26
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Charles, you indicated earlier that you loosened the dash to take a peak behind. Just out of curiosity, do you think bulbs for guage lights could be replaced by taking loose the portion you did? I have a few lights burned out, but didn't want to get into a very big project on that at this time. It's cold, icey and snowy here too.
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Old 02-05-2007, 08:15 AM   #27
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bulbs

Oh I'm sure you can change bulbs behind the dash ....but in my opinion...anything behind the dash is going to be a job. One thing I am finding is that my dash is very brittle plastic. When I move it ever so gently it cracks. So I'm sure I am going to need a new dash. I can imagine a new dash is not available so I can see having to have someone make me a dash$$$$$$. Possibly to change bulbs you will need to move something out of the way....my advice....if it involves more than one unit....you need to do a good job of marking wires. Make written notes as to the order things are removed to aid in reinstallation. This dash job looks so "scarey" to me that I'm going to put it off to the last of my inside work. Don't get me wrong....work behind there can be done.....just go about it carefully. In any job....I always say.... some man put this thing together.....using care....a little common sense....I should be able take it apart and put it back together. In my life....I've taken a few things apart....and wrecked them....but I learned from them. You can do it....just go carefully.
Anybody got any input about what I might do to get a replacement dash????
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Old 02-05-2007, 10:54 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tn2
Anybody got any input about what I might do to get a replacement dash????
Welcome home and I look forward to seeing your progress.
Here's a link to my dash board project: http://www.airforums.com/forum...highlight=dash

Here's today's update. Chummy is in the shop getting a new wiring harness installed as I write this. We have encountered electrical problems from the day we picked him up. Many hands have messed around under his dash and mine was the worse messing. Last summer I began to purchase fuses by the gross and keep a fire extinguisher by my side at all times. Each trip became an adventure in darkness and wonder. I wonder how fast we are going, I wonder if we have any fuel, I wonder if the engine is overheating, etc, etc. The dash looks great but having it functional is far better than appearance.
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