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Old 06-27-2011, 08:19 PM   #15
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I chased an overheating car once and all that was wrong was a bad radiator cap.
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Old 06-27-2011, 08:30 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE
220 on the flat with the AC on is high.

The viscus coupling is the thermostatic fan coupling. I have never heard of one going bad but I guess it is possible to burn the clutch out if it was used frequently. If the coupling engages you should hear a noticeable change in the engine noise as the fan is engaged at direct drive.

If you say it was running hot just after you picked it up odds are they screwed up on something. Check the fan orientation and then check to make sure it is turning in the right direction. The serpentine belt on some engines can be routed to cause the rotation to be wrong. A quite and easy check by looking just as the engine is turned off and watch the coast down of the fan. Check the thermostat as even new ones can be bad or some can be put in upside down and thus the bulb never see the hot water to cause it to open.

Any auto parts store should have a radiator cap pressure test kit. Take it off and make a trip to one. While a bad cap will not cause overheating, it prevents premature boil over by raising the boiling point do to the pressure, it still a good thing to check at this point.

If you can see directly into the radiator while the cap is off a test of the pump would be to have someone rev the engine once warm. The liquid level on the radiator should be pulled down just a bit as the engine revs up. Pumps generally last about 80,000 miles. However I have seen a Dodge pump complete loose the impeller fins from dissolving. This however is not an over night thing. But looking at a 15,000 mile trip to Alaska you might want to change it now. If you do there are high capacity pumps that are rated above 130 GPM.
My Moho is 1987 345 with 56k miles on it. Not really used that much. Ran hot after I picked it up in Indiana from the po and it had sat for some time before that drive. This past weekend was really the first test drive since I got it back from mechanic after months and months. It does have new radiator cap along with new thermostat. In the spare parts the po gave me was a water pump. Oh sorry I am driving to Arkansas, not Alaska. Lol. I am going to look in the paperwork from the po. They are very detailed and a lot has been done. It's just so I have an idea.
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Old 06-27-2011, 08:39 PM   #17
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I had a collapsed bottom hose on my delivery truck once. It looked fine from the outside. That overheated. That baffled us for quite awhile.
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Old 06-27-2011, 08:42 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splitrock
I chased an overheating car once and all that was wrong was a bad radiator cap.
Thank you. Already been changed. I had a lot of stuff done to this thing.
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Old 06-27-2011, 10:09 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splitrock
I had a collapsed bottom hose on my delivery truck once. It looked fine from the outside. That overheated. That baffled us for quite awhile.
All hoses have been replaced, but I will make sure.
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Old 06-27-2011, 10:18 PM   #20
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Somewhere back there, I saw a post about "sender and gauge"; I'd go there first, though we all know how hot a 454 can get.
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Old 07-01-2011, 11:56 AM   #21
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I spotted this in the Summit Catalog...
I am gonna get one, and maybe this will help you too!
A Radiator Cap with a Thermometer built in!

Mr. Gasket 2471S - Mr. Gasket Thermocap Radiator Caps - Overview - SummitRacing.com

"These Mr. Gasket Thermocap radiator caps combine a high-pressure radiator cap with a thermometer element; just check the integrated temperature gauge, and you will know when it is safe to remove the cap. They are manufactured from aluminum and are available in your choice of red, blue, or silver anodized finishes. The Mr. Gasket Thermocap radiator caps read temperature in both Fahrenheit and Celsius to suit any vehicle's needs. No tools or modifications are required; just remove your old stock cap and replace it with one of the new Thermocaps. No more guessing games about whether or not it is safe to remove the radiator cap--with one of these Mr. Gasket Thermocap radiator caps, you will be safe each and every time."
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Old 07-01-2011, 12:28 PM   #22
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A little warning story...
My waterpump on my Suburban started to weep, so I replaced it, and put also put on a new Viscous Coupling that I had in my spares box..
As soon as I replaced it I noticed that I had a slight vibration, that was not there before, but as I drive it pretty gentle, I planned to investigate the next week.
My 19 year old son asked to borrow the Suburban a couple of days later..
He jumped in it and proceeded to drive at speed on the freeway....
Later, when I asked how fast he was going he said "about" 80mph... which means in Teenage boy speak "at least" 80!
He said teh vibration got worse and worse as he drove... but naturally he never slowed down!
Suddenly there was a loud bang, smoke, steam and the motor died.
An Autopsy revealed the truth...
I think the VC was stored on its side, and the fluid pooled at one end, which is not good... this caused an out of balance condition, that caused wobble, that finally bent the main shaft of the VC... allowing the fan to touch stuff....
This destroyed the Water Pump, VC, Fan Blade, and Radiator.
Another casualty was the Alternator, which was damaged when a piece of the fan chopped thru the cable and the loose end WELDED itself to the engine bracket!
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Old 07-01-2011, 12:51 PM   #23
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How does a Viscous Coupling work? Where's it go? What's the fluid? What's the fluid do? Is this a clutch?
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Old 07-01-2011, 01:04 PM   #24
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VC, Viscous Coupling, Fan Clutch... many names, same thing.
Its the cast aluminum thing in my last post first pic.
Its filled with silicon fluid, and this causes it to slip or grip dependant on temperature..

More info here:
Fan clutch - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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Old 07-01-2011, 01:57 PM   #25
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Oh, I see how it works. It's pictured laying down in the radiator picture. The hub goes through the center hole on the fan and the fan bolts to the clutch. The fin part spins on the shaft that's bolted to a part of the engine that turns. The clutch slips at high speeds according to resistance from the fan. Thanks for the explanation.
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Click on the link to see a picture of the Sioux River falls near my home.
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Old 07-01-2011, 03:03 PM   #26
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You got it!
In the case of the Chevy 454, it bolts to the nose of the water pump... thats why when mine went wrong, and bent the flange, the fan hit the radiator!
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Old 07-01-2011, 05:45 PM   #27
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Ok. Cool. Thank you. I am taking it in next Tuesday.
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Old 07-01-2011, 05:48 PM   #28
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That was what my mechanic said it probably was. The vc.
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