345 Interior views you normally don't see (warning graphic pictures)

[Keyair]

Brad, can you put on your list of things to document the routing and details of the TV antenna coax cable please?

[bkahler]

Steve,

Let me know if you're looking for more or different information.

There are three cables that go from the over head bin area up into the ceiling and head over to front air conditioner and then turn and head to towards the rear.



The first wire splits off and goes up to the roof by the antenna raise/lower mechanism. The other two cables continue traveling to the rear passing by the rear air conditioner.



One of the two cables splits off and heads to the socket that is above the drivers side closet. This socket has the 12-volt plug in and the antenna connector.



The last cable goes a couple of feet more towards the rear and then turns towards the space between the closet and the rear side window. It continues on down the wall and heads to the floor.



Once at the floor it actually comes out of the wall and runs along the side of the wall until it is just below the window. From there it heads through the floor.



Once through the floor it ends up in the electrical compartment.

[bkahler]

Yesterday I removed the passenger cockpit window assembly. I will say this, I hope no one ever has to replace the fixed window pane in the cockpit. To do so you literally have to remove the interior skin all the way around the window in order to get access to the drain tube. You can't remove the window without removing the drain tube. Not sure what Airstream was thinking when they designed that arrangement but it certainly wasn't with maintenance after the sale in mind

The first thing I did was remove all of the exterior rivets using the following tool purchased from Aircraft Spruce. In reading the forums I've found that some people like using the tool and others feel it's a waste of time. My only comment is when I start getting tired I like having a tool that takes the guess work out of how to drill a rivet out.



Once the rivets were drilled out I made sure they were below the depth of the outer frame by using a punch and driving them inward. I then used a flexible putty knife and a hammer to break the seal between the window frame and the double sided tape used on the backside of the window frame where it meets the aluminum skin. The hammer and putty knife worked very well.



There are five or six stainless sheet metal screws that have to be removed along the front where the window frame meets the main structural frame. The one screw shown in the picture is not one of them



To seal the window from the inside Airstream used massive amounts of vulkem. It was slathered on real thick in places and I ended up using the putty knife with hammer the same way I did the outside. Again this method worked real well in freeing up the window for removal.



I'm not sure how many people realize there is a drain tube under the guide track, I know I didn't, but this is the main reason you have to remove the interior panel below the window. I could see no method of removing the window without first removing this drain tube. The tube is made up of 1/4" copper tubing and flared at the top. I didn't see any sealing done between the tube and the inside of the track. I'm assuming Airstream counted on the massive amount of Vulkem that was slathered on under the window frame. I didn't noticed any water leaks in this area so it must have worked. Once I removed all of the Vulkem I was able to slip the tube out of the frame.



Continued below....

[bkahler]

Cockpit window frame removal continued....

Once the drain tube was removed and the seal broken all the way around both inside and on three sides outside (top, rear, bottom) I was ready to try and remove the window frame.

Note, I didn't try and break the seal on the side front edge of the window frame because it actually lays slightly underneath the windshield rubber gasket. My thought was to push the back end of the window out first and then keep rotating it towards the front hopefully breaking the front double sided tape seal.

It was sort of difficult at first to get the window frame moving but once I got the first bit of moment it went fairly easy after that.



Here you can see where the leading edge of the window frame is under the windshield rubber gasket. One thought that occurred to me is if you're getting leaks from the front area you might try sealing along the seam between the window frame and the windshield rubber gasket. The only thing sealing the frame in that area is the double sided tape.



Here are some pictures showing the structural frame work around the window opening. As you can see on the leading edge there was no sealant other then the windshield rubber gasket and the window frame.



In order to remove the fixed window pane the following two little screws need to be removed so you can remove the center mullion. Once the mullion is removed I'm still not sure how to remove the fixed window. I think that task is for another day



Next up will be removal of the rear corner windows.

Brad

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by bkahler

Cockpit window frame removal continued....
...

Brad

Awesome documentary, Brad. Thank you for all the work it takes to do that.
You mentioning a drain tube under the windows made me crack up, because I added one of those many years back in my 79 Moho, but just a little further to the front. I had a persistent leak that I was unable to trace and it would rot out the floors in the cab. They must have caught on to that and added it in the later models.

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by PeterH-87MH

Awesome documentary, Brad. Thank you for all the work it takes to do that.
You mentioning a drain tube under the windows made me crack up, because I added one of those many years back in my 79 Moho, but just a little further to the front. I had a persistent leak that I was unable to trace and it would rot out the floors in the cab. They must have caught on to that and added it in the later models.

Peter,

Glad you like the documentation. Hopefully it will help someone down the road. If nothing else it will remind me how to do it should I ever need too

If you had to add the drain tube to your 79 then it's a sure bet my 74 Argosy motorhome doesn't have the drain tube. I guess I'll add that to the list of things to do when I replace the seals and tracks on the cockpit windows

I got the drivers side cockpit window assembly removed this afternoon. It went pretty much like the passenger side did. Now that I know how to do it it's not that bad of a job. That is assuming all of the interior is already removed

Brad

[bkahler]

This morning it was time to removing the awning. For the past several weeks I've been thinking of different ways to remove it by myself and last night I finally came up with a solution that I thought might work.

I've got a old Case backhoe that I have fitted pallet forks to the front bucket. Those forks have come in handy time and again and this morning was no exception. As you can see from the pictures I made a guide/carrier from a could of 2x10-12' planks. The carrier was clamped to the forks and then I placed the backhoe in alignment so when the bucket was raised the carrier was in alignment with the awning as I slid it from the track on the motorhome.

I was quite surprised at how easy the awning slid within the track. I was afraid I'd have to beat on it, etc to get it to move. One good shove was all it took to get it moving. Once it was moving I would slide it a few feet, stop and add a tie wrap to keep it rolled and move it another couple of feed. The process worked real well.

I've read else where on the forums that it is possible to cut the tube and awning down to a smaller size so the plan is to cut this one down to fit the 20' Argosy motorhome. Hopefully my only expense will be getting the awning seamed along the edge where I cut it.

[PeterH-350LE]

Brad, did you have to unwind the torsion spring before you took it off the RV or were you able to just take the arms of the endcaps? There is a dimple in the tube that holds the spring in place that you may have to modify on the cut end. I understand you can use 4 rivets instead of trying to make the dimple in the new location.

[bkahler]

Peter,

I'd like to say I did everything right when I was taking the awning off but I wasn't thinking (tired actually) and I pulled the left arm off and the spring totally unwound. I'm assuming it is possible to rewind the spring. If you have information on how to assemble the zip dee awnings I'd sure like to hear about it

Brad

[PeterH-350LE]

Just was wondering how you got the torsion released. Your "way" was probably the safest way to do it, short off opening the awning and slowing rotating the torsion arm. It is something to be very vigilant about, since doing it the wrong way can really hurt you. And yes, you will be able to rewind it after you reinstall it.

Here is some info about this topic:
Window Awning Spring Replacement

[raveson]

Brad,
The pixs give us all a great advantage if we need to trace a bunch of wires, etc. Great info!

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by PeterH-87MH

Just was wondering how you got the torsion released. Your "way" was probably the safest way to do it, short off opening the awning and slowing rotating the torsion arm. It is something to be very vigilant about, since doing it the wrong way can really hurt you. And yes, you will be able to rewind it after you reinstall it.

Here is some info about this topic:
Window Awning Spring Replacement

Peter,

Thanks for the link! Just the information I was looking for. I also found these posts on airforums.

shortening-a-zip-dee-awning

shortening-a-zip-dee

I'm hoping to try the installation sometime in October.

Thanks!

Brad

[bkahler]

Now the pictures are really starting to get graphic

I finally started removing the outer shell this evening. Along the way I realized I had pictures of three potential models of the 345 that no one has probably seen before.

Here we have the short bed pickup version of the 345. Good for hauling small things or you could make the back into a hot tub



Next we have the full sized bed pickup version of the 345. You could haul a lot of stuff in the back of this thing



Last but not least we have the convertible model of the 345. I don't think it would handle as well as my Triumph TR4 but I'm sure it would get a lot of looks going down the highway



This coming weekend I plan on removing the rest of the walls and hope to have the engine and transmission out as well. I'll try and get pictures of the engine removal process so you can see what is involved.

Brad

[PeterH-350LE]

345 El Camino...
And did you say you are doing all this by yourself ???
Did you just cut the aluminum frames as you went along?
If you can, try to save the curved frames above the windshields. They are a priceless item...

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by PeterH-87MH

345 El Camino...
And did you say you are doing all this by yourself ???
Did you just cut the aluminum frames as you went along?
If you can, try to save the curved frames above the windshields. They are a priceless item...

That would be a good model name

Other than my wife removing some of the trim bits and misc small items I've pretty much dismantled the whole thing myself. I used a sawzall and cut the top into sections and then cut down the sides and across. That way it sort of came off in sections. Only used my front end loader to lift the back section off, the rest are light enough to just lift off by myself.

One of the reasons I stopped where I did was so I could try and figure out how to remove that front frame work in one piece. The front section that runs across the engine compartment was busted up in the wreck but the upper frame work is intact. I figure if someone busts up the upper front of the their motorhome this might make a good repair section.

The tricky part will be finding some place to store it for the long haul.

Brad

[OilnH2o]

Ahoy, Brad,

This is all above my pay grade but I camped next to Smartstream at the VAC rally in Wenatchee in August, and had my own Carefree awning problem. Dan (Smartstream) is really knowledgeable about cutting down awnings, having done it at least once, maybe twice! He was helpful to me and knows waaay more than I do and has a beautiful 280 to boot!

You might PM him about cutting the awning.

Watch yer wake!

Dave

[bkahler]

Dave,

Thanks for the info. I'll get with Smartstream when I get ready to cut the awning. That probably won't happen until I finish disposing of the 345.

One project at a time...

Brad

[bkahler]

For those of you who didn't know, there was also a 345 Flat Bed model. Fortunately not to many of them were made, possibly just one...



Next is removal of the engine and transmission. Turns out both the engine and transmission are Mr Goodwrench replacement units. It would be nice to know how many miles are on them but I don't know of any way to find out.

Brad

[PeterH-350LE]

The engine ID number could give you at least a date of manufacture?
I wish you many happy years at your current home, imagine what a move would be like.
I am glad to have witnessed your massive untertaking first hand, because I wouldn't believe it otherwise...

[elbundi]

These are some pretty hard-core graphic pictures Brad!!
Did you get any shots of the insides as they became outsides?

Originally Posted by bkahler

For those of you who didn't know, there was also a 345 Flat Bed model. Fortunately not to many of them were made, possibly just one...

Attachment 168777

Next is removal of the engine and transmission. Turns out both the engine and transmission are Mr Goodwrench replacement units. It would be nice to know how many miles are on them but I don't know of any way to find out.

Brad