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Old 02-14-2017, 03:11 AM   #29
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Hanalei, /Chino Valley , Hawaii / Arizona
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Here is the right side on my 345. It's a rather cobbled together install. But seems to do the job.
I haven't gotten a pic of the left side that shows it clearly. I'll try with more light if you like.
But after seeing this one I would think any reservations about making one should be gone. 👍

Cheers Richard
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Old 02-14-2017, 09:58 AM   #30
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1982 31' Airstream 310
Henniker , New Hampshire
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Here is my right side inner fender that I added after my motor replacement.
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Old 02-14-2017, 10:17 AM   #31
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1984 27' Airstream 270
Scotia , New York
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None of that shielding on my 84. It does not look to hard to duplicate.
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Old 02-14-2017, 10:40 AM   #32
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Foothill Ranch , California
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To add to the discussion.

On the RH/Pass side, this is the piece that sticks out on the front end under restoration. The slot is the infeed for the Heater/AC unit.


This is the assembly as I took it out, with the broken ABS Heater/AC duct. I need to make a new one of sheet aluminum.



The panel that goes behind that against the exhaust and RH bank of the motor is a plate piece of sheet steel, probably 20 gauge. I will photograph and dimension it when I go out to my MH next.

This is the Drivers side.


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Old 02-14-2017, 12:55 PM   #33
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1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond , Kentucky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boom Sounds View Post
...I am assuming the flush was successful. My knock sensor goes straight into the block. If you have the same set up, undo it to see if coolant runs freely. If it doesn't, you may have a partial blockage. This can sometimes be sorted out (be careful) by wiggling a screwdriver there to try and break up the debris without damaging anything.
Nick, just FYI the 345 in discussion is an 85 model so will most likely be a carbureted engine so no knock sensor.

Brad
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Old 02-17-2017, 08:56 AM   #34
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These pics help immensely!! Thank you !!! the shop has a metal fabrication guy so they should be able to create something like this !

Once Again I appreciate all the comments and feedback ! I've shared these posts with my Shop and once I get home, we'll be able to review what's in place and next steps.

Right now, we're replacing the Fan Clutch (AC DELCO), I am having a custom aluminum radiator made, and we'll be looking at these shrouds too !

Hopefully.... Some of us we'll be seeing each other rolling down the highways soon !
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Old 02-17-2017, 09:14 AM   #35
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No problemo!

My guess is that you have the passenger side shield with the HVAC duct in it.
The other piece on the passenger side is a flat sheet, so dead easy to replicate.
That Barth template for the other side should be good, just compare it to the pics to know.
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Old 02-27-2017, 06:03 AM   #36
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1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond , Kentucky
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A while back I ran across this write up describing the correct cooling & splash shields used on the later P-30 chassis motorhomes. Lots of good info with templates on how to make your own.

Since my Argosy doesn't have any shields I'll use the templates as a guide to make some.

Brad
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Old 03-31-2017, 08:18 PM   #37
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Latest Update !

Thank You all SO much for the Pics of the shroud... They had a metal fab guy and he's built them based off of your pictures ! So I greatly appreciate your efforts !

Secondly, we replaced the old fan with a new AC DELCO fan clutch.

After that... it was still running hot.... about 230 on flat ground...

So next they ran it with the engine cover off and determined that the engine temp was actually at 209... (gauges read 230 again).

They next looked to see where the sensors were inserted in the engine block... apparently they were inserted in the back of the block next to the exhaust manifold...

Next they moved the sensors somewhere near the intake manifold, and it ran at 75 and never crossed 210....

We did NOT do the aluminum radiator at this point, we were trying some last efforts before spending the money on that.

So.... Once Again I ask my fellow Airstream Fanatics who know much more then I do.... Does this seem reasonable ? logical and make sense ?

Need a gut check please !

Thanks In Advance,

Todd
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Old 04-01-2017, 12:30 AM   #38
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I assume you mean 175, not 75. It's conceivable, although I would expect it to run a little hotter (185-190) on the flat in A1 condition. It might be possible to confirm operating temps through the use of one of infrared non contact digital temp guages.


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Old 04-01-2017, 03:41 AM   #39
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1984 27' Airstream 270
Scotia , New York
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I have 3 sensors monitoring the coolant temperature.
1) The original in the block, drivers side between piston cylinders. That goes to the dash gauge which in non linear and does read higher than it should.
2) The sensor in the front of the intake manifold near the thermostat. It is not original, it came with my TBI kit for the ECM to know the engine temperature.
3) I have a thermocouple wire inserted into a bolt also near the thermostat. I use this one with a laptop to monitor various temperatures in the MH. I monitor and log exhaust, engine oil, transmission fluid and a few others. I also monitor and log the ECM data with the laptop.

The results are #2 & #3 read very close to each other (between 190 & 200 deg.) because they are in the same location.
#1 reads higher (210 to 230 degrees) first because the stock dash gauge is not calibrated and second because the bulk of the heat generated in the engine is in the piston cylinders less than a inch away from that sensor. The coolant temperature there will be higher as it is doing its work.

On a side note, I monitor the exhaust manifold temperature at the exhaust crossover bypass valve and under heavy load that goes up to 1100 degrees! That is why I am interested in trying out this shield. My 84 does not have a shield on either side.

Since I am towing a trailer with my Polaris Ranger at 2000 pounds, I am also considering removing the air conditioner heat exchanger from the front of the radiator to improve cooling. I dont use the engine AC anyway. Pulling that and the compressor will allow for weight for necessities like beer to cool off when I get to my destination!
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Old 04-01-2017, 04:46 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneG View Post
I have 3 sensors monitoring the coolant temperature.
1) The original in the block, drivers side between piston cylinders. That goes to the dash gauge which in non linear and does read higher than it should.
2) The sensor in the front of the intake manifold near the thermostat. It is not original, it came with my TBI kit for the ECM to know the engine temperature.
3) I have a thermocouple wire inserted into a bolt also near the thermostat. I use this one with a laptop to monitor various temperatures in the MH. I monitor and log exhaust, engine oil, transmission fluid and a few others. I also monitor and log the ECM data with the laptop.

The results are #2 & #3 read very close to each other (between 190 & 200 deg.) because they are in the same location.
#1 reads higher (210 to 230 degrees) first because the stock dash gauge is not calibrated and second because the bulk of the heat generated in the engine is in the piston cylinders less than a inch away from that sensor. The coolant temperature there will be higher as it is doing its work.

On a side note, I monitor the exhaust manifold temperature at the exhaust crossover bypass valve and under heavy load that goes up to 1100 degrees! That is why I am interested in trying out this shield. My 84 does not have a shield on either side.

Since I am towing a trailer with my Polaris Ranger at 2000 pounds, I am also considering removing the air conditioner heat exchanger from the front of the radiator to improve cooling. I dont use the engine AC anyway. Pulling that and the compressor will allow for weight for necessities like beer to cool off when I get to my destination!
I guess I cant edit my post after a delay so I am quoting it.
For sensor #1, I was thinking of either another engine or the oil sensor, I just went out (in the damn April Fools snow) to verify and it is actually in the head on the drivers side. That is still a hotter location than at the thermostat.
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Old 04-01-2017, 06:37 AM   #41
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As Wayne stated the 454 powered motorhomes I'm aware of have the engine temp taken on the drivers side head. That location will always read higher than other locations. I prefer to always verify temperatures using a non contact laser infrared temperature gun.

It sounds to me like your temperatures are close to normal if you're getting 175 to 210. Although the 210 might be a little on the high side. Does the 210 show up while driving or at idle? If at idle then you still might have something to worry about.

Like Wayne I will have multiple temperature sensors on the engine. I'm will actually have for sensors, one in each head, one at the top front of the manifold and one close to that for the PCM to use. I plan on having a switch that will allow me to toggle between the first three. No special reason for having this many other than I had them available and I thought it would be an interesting way to monitor engine temps

Brad
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