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Old 02-08-2017, 03:55 PM   #15
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2005 34' Classic S/O
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I to had terrible overheating issues with my 325LE, during the second phase of the overhaul I had the radiator recored with a 4 row new core with larger tubes. I also purchased a seven blade fan which replaced the original 5 blade. In addition to the new AC delco fan clutch I was able to locate a NIB/NOS Delco correct 192 degree high flow thermostat. After an extensive 12mile mountain road test both alone and towing our car on the dolly, 2 separate trips I now rarely go above 205. Regards, Bob
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Old 02-08-2017, 04:17 PM   #16
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Newbie here. OK The Anaconda has been setting for awhile and we are getting ready to hit the road. Would like to clean it up a little (outside), suggestions are appreciated!!


Cheers
Tony
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Old 02-08-2017, 05:31 PM   #17
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2006 34' Classic S/O
Fort Worth , Texas
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About 454's: Regular 5 year GM radiator boil out, flush, and antifreeze change , new thermostat and radiator cap, and careful check of viscous fan clutch are mandatory for trouble free operation. The first sign that it is time for the above preventative service is when you hear the fan start up on a flat Interstate in the early part of the day when it is still cool out. The 454 is designed to run in a narrow temperature range. When modifying the cooling system there is such a thing as to much speed at which the water volume flows through the system. What happens is the water goes too fast to have time to soak up the heat and dissipate it through the radiator. More is not necessarily better. I had a friend who completely rebuilt his 454 due to overheating only to discover when it was all done it still overheated. He needed a new radiator cap to hold in the pressure to keep it from boiling. When operating with low oil volume, the oil, which is the major method of carrying heat away from the internal parts of the engine, the cylinders can become scored due to friction thus causing blow by of combustion gasses that severely heat up the engine even to the point of shut down. Oil viscosity that is too thin for the ambient temperature will do the same thing. As in using 10W-30 oil instead of straight weight 30. My GM dealer had me use HD 15w-40 diesel oil in my hot Texas climate 454. Never any damage either. I hope your engine problems are not as severe as you suspect, but if they are, I would get a crate engine and start over in your really nice motorhome.
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Old 02-08-2017, 07:19 PM   #18
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3445 Overheating

Once had a '86 345 that overheated so badly you couldn't drive it 20 miles. Turned out to be oily road grime stopping up the outside of the radiators (ac and engine), in between the two radiators where you couldn't see it. When that was cleaned out it would run 160.
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Old 02-09-2017, 05:29 AM   #19
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Thank you to ALL the contributors to this post !!!! I am very encouraged that we WILL find a solution and our "Magic Bus" will be rolling down the road soon enough !

I'll be printing off all of these ideas and running them past my RV shop manager and brainstorm with him which of these alternatives he may have already checked and which ones we should prioritize going forward !!!

FYI - This is my first ever post/question on these forums and I cannot tell you how pleased I am to find so much advice/support from my fellow Airstream Motorhome enthusiasts ! I will certainly be following and contributing (where my limited knowledge allows) more in the future!

Once we get a solid solution, I will let you all (and others watching the thread) know what worked and what didn't !

THIS SITE ROCKS !!!!!

Todd
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Old 02-09-2017, 05:39 AM   #20
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I've got a question and a couple of comments. The question is are the sheet metal covers installed on each side of the engine? These sheet metal covers can be seen while looking in through the wheel wells and somewhat blocking your view of the exhaust manifolds. If these covers aren't in place you can expect to experience elevated temperatures.

My first comment is when I was working on Peanut last year the engine temp would continue to rise after the engine was started and would overheat even at an idle. I pulled the radiator, had it re-cored and now the engine temperature barely gets to the point where the thermostat opens no matter how long it idles. My take off of this is the stock radiator in new condition appears to handle the heat load quite well.

My other comment is all fan clutches are not created equal. There are a lot of junk ones on the market. I believe the correct fan clutch for your 345 is AC Delco 15-4949. Other forum members have mentioned they had problems with replacement fan clutches until they installed the Delco unit.

Ok, one last question Has your engine timing been verified to be correct? Incorrect ignition timing can greatly affect engine temps.

Brad
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Old 02-09-2017, 05:48 AM   #21
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Ok, got another question. Has anyone checked the transmission? The transmission cooling lines run up to the radiator and if the transmission is generating a lot of excess heat that will directly affect the cooling capability of the radiator. Especially if the transmissions been working hard like it does when climbing hills.

When you're checking engine temperatures with the laser temperature probe check the transmission while you're at it.

Brad
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Old 02-09-2017, 06:48 AM   #22
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Hanalei, /Chino Valley , Hawaii / Arizona
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Here is a success story of getting engine running temps into the comfort zone.
My 345 tended to run at 205/210 and would get hotter (mid teens ) when working hard.
Not crazy hot, but hotter than long term engine health calls for. IMO.
Also the long run times of the fan clutch was really bugging me.

After replacing the fan clutch a couple of times, and still having to listen to it running WAY TOO MUCH, I decided to go thru the cooling system from front to back.
1 new air damn, to direct air flow into engine compartment.
2 recored radiator with hi pro core.
3 new A C Daleco fan clutch and water pump.
4 lower temp thermostat, new hoses
5 have electric fans in front of radiator for extra cooling when needed.
6 had TBI dialed in for better tuning.

All of these done at one time makes it hard to isolate which had most effect.
But the result is a much cooler running engine. Generally low 190s. That will cool down quickly after a long hard climb on a hot day, allowing the fan clutch to disengage after short effective run time.
And a much more comfortable driving experence.

Todd it seems like you have done a lot in the effort to get your coach running well and at correct temps.
I'm hoping the problem in keeping your engine temps down comes to light so you can enjoy using your rig soon.

Cheers Richard
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Old 02-10-2017, 10:52 AM   #23
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
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ALL of the above comments are valid and many of the owners have been through this before.
It is a known and common issue, so hopefully the engine is ok.

Not sure if I missed it, but here is another couple of points if someone didn't already mention them regarding air flow and cooling.

The following points are critical in our motorhomes for correct cooling of the motor and other components.
1/ The bulkhead drapes need to be in place between the engine bay firewall, and top of the radiator. This creates a pressurized area in front of the radiator and increases flow, by stopping air flowing over the top of the radiator.
2/ Assuming your plastic fan shroud is still there, check the removable lower section is too.. It improves the engine fans ability to pull air through the radiator at idle and lower speeds. Mine is missing too.
3/ The engine side panels should be in place. These are metal sheets visible under the wheel arch either side. Passenger side is a flat panel, and drivers side is more complex to clear Hydroboost system. If they are missing, it is said to cause loss of airflow and therefore cooling for the exhaust manifolds, and increases the chance of warping and cracking.
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Old 02-11-2017, 03:49 PM   #24
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Thanks All,

I've passed all this information to the mechanics and they are reviewing it all to see what's what with our Bus's current configuration.

You have all been so kind with your feedback, I hate to ask for more.. But... Is there anyone that can post photos of the engine side panels ?

I'm currently traveling for work and not able to view our bus to confirm they are in place or not. But thought if someone could take some pics, I can have the mechanics make a comparison.

Much appreciated.

Todd
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Old 02-11-2017, 04:39 PM   #25
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3/ The engine side panels should be in place. These are metal sheets visible under the wheel arch either side. Passenger side is a flat panel, and drivers side is more complex to clear Hydroboost system. If they are missing, it is said to cause loss of airflow and therefore cooling for the exhaust manifolds, and increases the chance of warping and cracking.
I am curious if someone has pictures of this? I do not think my 84 270 have these. The PO did do a engine swap, so I may be missing them?

For me, I try to not drive overloaded or on days when the temps are over 80F. I do my driving at sun up whenever I can.
On a warm day or doing hills, my fan clutch kicks in often, but only runs for a short while,when it runs the temp gauge goes down and the clutch releases. So far the worst I had was a heater hose valve blow. I need to have the radiator reworked, the cores are OK, but there is corrosion at the tubes in the end caps. My dash engine temp gauge shows 210-220 I also run other sensors that show a lower temps, but in different locations.

One suggestion if you are concerned about engine damage from overheating and/or oil loss. Have your engine oil (and tranny fluid) tested. It is a inexpensive way to see what may be in your future. I use Blackstone Labs and they can tell you a lot with a sample of your oil
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Old 02-11-2017, 05:12 PM   #26
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
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I know I have pics of my drivers side, I will try to post.

The Chevy Chassis service book has great info on cooling and other issues.
Every owner should have a copy saved for reference!
https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...3be6cf5637.pdf

Especially read page 7-19 about radiator cooling.
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Old 02-11-2017, 06:49 PM   #27
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1982 31' Airstream 310
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This might help: http://truckroadservice.com/barth_at...2015983041.pdf

See my motor swap post for pictures of several people's inner fenders and a template that I used to build my right side.
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Old 02-14-2017, 12:58 AM   #28
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Heavy duty fan clutch is a possible culprit and a cheap repair if you haven't don't it recently. They usually have a couple of speeds and when they get faulty, they sometimes only kick in at high temps.

I am assuming the flush was successful. My knock sensor goes straight into the block. If you have the same set up, undo it to see if coolant runs freely. If it doesn't, you may have a partial blockage. This can sometimes be sorted out (be careful) by wiggling a screwdriver there to try and break up the debris without damaging anything.


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