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Old 10-25-2009, 07:45 PM   #15
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1963 16' Bambi
Metairie , Louisiana
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Originally Posted by Bowmans View Post
I am watching your progress kaffe and only have one comment so far. You back porch looks just like my side yard at the moment... Covered in cabinets, aluminum and stuff!
since that picture was taken I actually built a shed to store all the Bambi parts in...see attached picture. I told my wife that when I was done with the Bambi she could use it as storage...cause I already have two other sheds
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Old 10-25-2009, 07:51 PM   #16
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1963 16' Bambi
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Here's a few photos of the rear area on our 63 safari (not a wet bath model). rear crossmember as well as the crossbrace the rear wall bolts through were virtually gone. The main frame rails weren't bad. You can see the major rust, pieces gone. I cut out the cross members (which are made of sheet metal I might add) and replaced the back brace under the back wall with angle iron instead of the flat stock which I didn't feel gave enough support. Next shows a coat of por-15, can't find the finished coat photo, but gives you an idea, then after installing the plywood. I had to split that last piece of plywood because of the vents, pipes etc, provided a very wide support where the splice met up with lots of construction adhesive and screws. Damage on yours looks simliar. Take lots of pictures of where things are, measure holes best you can, then remove the inner lower skins and start taking all the little screws etc out (I ended up cutting almost all the bolts and screw to get them loose.) Then take the plywood out, saving the shape if possible for a template, get a good welder over to your house if you aren't a good one yourself, and in a few days you can have a very solid back end to the trailer. It isn't as bad as it might appear!

Thanks for the pictures and info...Thankfully here in New Orleans we don't have bad winters so I am hoping by new year to have the floor replaced. so Check back!
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Old 10-25-2009, 08:21 PM   #17
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Looks familiar

Kaffe --

Good luck. You have a great project started.

Adding to Scott's good advice: before you have the welder over, think about whether you are adding a grey tank. If you are, plan your supports and plumbing before he starts. A little extra beefing won't add much weight but will add greatly to your peace of mind.
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Old 10-25-2009, 10:03 PM   #18
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1963 16' Bambi
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Kaffe --

Good luck. You have a great project started.

Adding to Scott's good advice: before you have the welder over, think about whether you are adding a grey tank. If you are, plan your supports and plumbing before he starts. A little extra beefing won't add much weight but will add greatly to your peace of mind.
Great advice...luckly, I am the welder and I am def. adding a gray tank. I just need to decide on size...what has other people used. I think I remember NorCal addind a 15 gal., that sounds about right.
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Old 10-26-2009, 01:00 PM   #19
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1961 16' Bambi
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Are you going to reuse the goucho frames or make new ones? I recently purchased a 61 Bambi that a prior owner had removed both gouchos-replaced with a metal frame pull out bed and table. Used at a construction site I think. Would you want to sell these? I need at least pictures and dimensions of same to remake these unoits. I have seen general blurprints available on the vintage airstream website but not specific dimensions and how to stuff included.
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Old 10-26-2009, 01:02 PM   #20
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1961 16' Bambi
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ALso, I want to replace porta potty type toilet with a Dometic 500..can this be done? I am ignorant of all Bambi systems at this point. DO you have to plumb differently for a flush toilet?
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Old 10-26-2009, 09:30 PM   #21
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1963 16' Bambi
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Are you going to reuse the goucho frames or make new ones? I recently purchased a 61 Bambi that a prior owner had removed both gouchos-replaced with a metal frame pull out bed and table. Used at a construction site I think. Would you want to sell these? I need at least pictures and dimensions of same to remake these unoits. I have seen general blurprints available on the vintage airstream website but not specific dimensions and how to stuff included.
Actually, I was not planning on selling any of the parts. That may change by the time I am done. But my plan is to reuse and rebuild all of the origianl and just add a modern feel to the finish. I will let everyone know if that changes. As for the toilet, you can do any changes you want. The Bambi originally had a flushable toilet and the dometic 500 is a good pick. You would just have to add a black tank.

Do you know if your '61 was made in Ohio or Cal? And I would suggest you check out NorCal's Bambi Restor if you haven't already...I got a lot of info from his work.

If I can get the goucho out of my shed I will try to get some measurments and pictures for you. I think Vintage Trailer Supply sells the slides needed to make the system work.
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Old 10-27-2009, 09:27 AM   #22
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1961 16' Bambi
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Thank you so much..yes I have purchased the slides but without measurements find it hard to know where to start. A local Denver outfit TimelessTravel Trailers quoted $6500 for each even when I assured them I did not want the gold leaf option. Were the wood frames simply screwed into floor with wood screws? How about those in the walls? WHat length?

I will take any pictures/measurements you come up with....

DOes your trailer not have a black tank? I assume mine does as it has a "t-handle" at the back of trailer for opening a dump valve.

Mine is a Calif model-streetside bath with suicide door..first or second one made....
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Old 10-27-2009, 02:36 PM   #23
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1963 16' Bambi
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Exactly, a wooden frame that was screwed right to the floor. I didn't take too many pictures when I took it all apart cause I am somewhat of a wrecking ball when I start that process...my wife complains that she has to tell me 3 times that dinner is ready before I start to clean up.

Yes, mine has a black tank, and it sits above the floor. So, if you don't see it inside the trailer, you would need that as well. (I assumed when you mentioned the portolet style that it was all gone.) Perhaps the '61 has the black tank sub-floor.

Mine is a Ohio model...which could explaine some differences. I am not too familiar with yours.
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Old 10-27-2009, 02:45 PM   #24
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1963 16' Bambi
Metairie , Louisiana
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So…what about all those hidden rivets? I walked outside yesterday with the intention of pulling the hot water tank. I ended up drilling the back curbside lower panels free. Well…free is an exaggeration. The panels never really did come lose. I keep finding rivets that need drilled out in the strangest spots. So if you walked out there, or I took a picture of it, you wouldn’t see anything different. So I will reserve the pictures until I have something to show for it.

I got another question. The pop rivets for the inside…I am planning on going to a size larger. Anyone had any experience with this…good or bad?
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Old 10-27-2009, 02:55 PM   #25
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floor replacement

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..., then after installing the plywood. I had to split that last piece of plywood because of the vents, pipes etc, provided a very wide support where the splice met up with lots of construction adhesive and screws. ...
How did you get the other floor pieces under the side channels if you did not also split those pieces of plywood?

It is hard to tell from the picture, but does the plywood go in between the channel and the frame?

I hope it does and it is just my misunderstanding.

Gene
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Old 10-27-2009, 03:15 PM   #26
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Lol, well um, how to best explain that... if you work a few sections ahead and cut all those shell bolts and screws loose, you will be amazed how much the trailer walls will flex. Getting it inside is fun, but at an angle. Plywood at a 45 degree angle (for instance street side up, curbside down) you kinda shoehorn the plywood in, gently forcing the first wall out slightly. The curve of the wall helps the side drop until it gets to the point where it curves back in, and again pushing the wall out will allow it to drop down. Then its a matter of making sure everything is aligned with plywood with the existing panel, then pulling your walls back to their correct spot (I made sure original bolt holes lined up). If I said it was easy I'd be lying, but was nice to avoid cuts. Any areas I had to cut I used large backer plates (upwards of a foot or more overlap per side) lots of glue and screws and double the elevator bolts as single panels to over engineer the splice.
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:41 PM   #27
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Alright, I got somewhere tonight. I pulled the hot water tank and removed 3 panels from the inside skin. I am impressed how tight of a fit it was for the HW tank...I had to turn in just right and the outside skin still scraped the top of the tank. I even has some lost treasures came out with the HW tank (knife, fork and can opener). Anyway, enjoy the pictures, I am off to bed.
PS. Notice this was a two beer job.
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:51 PM   #28
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you keeping that bowen water heater or going with something more modern?
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