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Old 11-03-2003, 05:23 PM   #15
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Starters, etcetera

Quote:
Originally posted by 87MH
My relatively new starter now requires multiple twists of the ignition key to initiate a start - More and more, I suspect the ignition switch.
Dennis:

Don't be too quick to blame the ignition switch, but give some consideration to the "neutral (park) safety switch". It's located on the steering column and is fairly easy to access.

Give the shift lever a wiggle while engaging the ignition/start switch and see if that solves the problem. If in doubt change both ("belt & suspenders method"), on the shelf at NAPA for 20 +/- bucks apiece.

Regards,
Jeff

P.S. Kudos for going with the "expensive" (GM - OEM?) starter. The NAPA (et al) rebuilds don't last long on the big block Chevys.
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Old 11-03-2003, 06:23 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by ALANSD
I had a starter from Advance Auto burned the solenoid from the engine heat. (they wouldn't take it back- although it still works..din't think they would but tried anyway)
As some of you already know I got the aluminum cased mini starter last Spring / it rotates away from the manifold. Wrapped it in a thermal cover for extra protection, and so far it has been excellent. Strong cranking every time, hot or not.
Just put on a 135 amp alternator from the same dealer.
I quit buying starters from the parts houses about 5 years ago. I have friend that works for Advance Auto, he told me that who ever gives them the best deal (read price) on the rebuilds gets the contract. I went through about 4 or 5 on my 4cyl Ranger before I got smart and bought OEM. Orignal factory starter went over 100k the rebuilts were going about 10k

Aaron
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Old 11-03-2003, 06:55 PM   #17
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yes, it was a cheap replacement, but amazingly it still works after being burnt to crap by the manifold heat. It was the plastic parts that fried. My two inexpensive replacement parts lasted a year or so. I hope to get more from the better made ones I now have.
Ans they both have life time warranty..for what its worth anyway.
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Old 11-03-2003, 07:47 PM   #18
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Don't be too quick to blame the ignition switch.......

Jeff:

Thanks for the tip. I will check it out.

The 2nd OEM rebuild crapped out coming home from the Forum Ralley in New Mexico. Had to climb underneath & do the hammer upside the head trick to get it going out of El Paso, Texas.

I installed a +/- $150 ministarter when I got back to Houston. It appeared to give me problems after one trip, so I pulled it and exchanged it (plus BIG bucks) for a full blown CSI 100U.

The CSI 100U is fully clockable, so I have the solenoid mounted straight down, away from the manifold and the oil pan.

I also installed several thermal blankets, wrapping the starter, lead in wires, and the solenoid.

This past weekend's trip to East Texas was the first trouble I have had since installing the CSI starter.

I'll post pics of the CSI later, but in the meantime, I will check the Neutral lockout.

Thanks again,
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Old 11-04-2003, 09:17 AM   #19
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Dennis- sounds like what I did, rotating the head/solenoid area down as far as I could.
I found the wires were a weak point also, and replaced and wrapped them also.

I remember the last replacement rebuilt cheapie...worked fine until I was sitting at the dump station, draining the tanks.
Then it decided to not start.
So here I am blocking the line of trailers and Mh's ready to dump after a weekend. Of course laying on the ground with a big screwdriver starting the already hot 454. Fun!!
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Old 11-04-2003, 06:32 PM   #20
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laying on the ground with a big screwdriver.....within feet of the dump station

Been there, done that, well not at a dump station, but in some darn uncomfortable circumstances.........

If nothing else, the minimal weight high torque (this one is supposed to put out 2 HP) starters are a heck of a lot lighter.

As you can see in the pic, I rotated the solenoid away from the exhaust and the block. I insulated the body and wires.

I had extended the wire loomb earlier when changing out the old heavy starters. The extension allows me to put the starter on the ground and remove and hook up the various wires. -- Only had to burn the crap out of my right hand twice before I figured I didn't HAVE to do all of the hookup in an unnatural and uncomfortable position (especially on a hot engine!).

Insulating blankets held on with aircraft safety wire (left over from a previous life). Solenoid blanket removed for pic.

The wire connection insulation at the solenoid is a high temp spark plug boot left over from the engine high tension work.

BTW, the starter came with plenty of spacer shims and the gauge tool to set the proper clearance between the pinion gear and the flywheel gear perimeter (sorry, just can't bring myself to say flex plate).
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Old 11-04-2003, 07:01 PM   #21
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Thumbs up

What a nut Dennis is....
Look how clean and tidy everything looks. But then again, I already knew that, because first thing I did at the New Mexico Rally this summer was to stick my head under his rig.
And let me tell you, it looked nice.
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Old 11-05-2003, 09:16 AM   #22
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What a nut Dennis is....

Yeah, Peter, you're right. I really need to get a life.

Look up 'anal' in the dictionary -- there's a picture of me.

I wonder if I can be buried in or under the 345. Hmmmm...
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Old 11-05-2003, 09:27 AM   #23
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yeah and I thought I was that way, not anymore
My oil pan is SOMEWHAT clean but not green!!

Nice job. I really like the mini hi torque starter. That and the thermal blanket look similiar to what I used. But yours is neater
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Old 11-06-2003, 08:39 AM   #24
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It will help a lot to wrap the exhaust pipe off the manifold. Keeps the heat in and the hot exhaust flows better.

John
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Old 11-06-2003, 12:43 PM   #25
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good idea, didn't know that was a good thing to do, but will be easily done. I still have wrap material left.
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Old 11-06-2003, 04:45 PM   #26
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The starter blanket material won't work if it isn't high temp, get something like thermotec wrap. It will also help with heat inside the mh. In these old engines half the energy in the gas goes out as wasted heat so if you can keep it in the pipes until it is under the coach it will help.

John
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Old 01-14-2005, 09:51 PM   #27
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Revived thread because mine quit.

When I got my MH back yesterday, the mechanic said that the loud grinding noise apon starting was a worn flywheel (teeth are chipped or worn), and that the starter shaft that extends out doesn't grab it well and slips.
Since it was starting anyway, I said that would be my next project. Well, my baby is stuck in the lot of Home Depot, and I will have to have it towed back to Victory Chev. to replace said flywheel (flex gear).
I'm wondering if it isn't the fly, but just a bad starter. I think I would like to tell them to just replace it first, and if it still grinds, then to do the flywheel.
Any recommendations? Should I just go ahead with the fly? I will go with oem starter if needed. BTW, they said it would be @ $900.00
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Old 01-15-2005, 09:18 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Astrodokk
When I got my MH back yesterday, the mechanic said that the loud grinding noise apon starting was a worn flywheel (teeth are chipped or worn), and that the starter shaft that extends out doesn't grab it well and slips.
Since it was starting anyway, I said that would be my next project. Well, my baby is stuck in the lot of Home Depot, and I will have to have it towed back to Victory Chev. to replace said flywheel (flex gear).
I'm wondering if it isn't the fly, but just a bad starter. I think I would like to tell them to just replace it first, and if it still grinds, then to do the flywheel.
Any recommendations? Should I just go ahead with the fly? I will go with oem starter if needed. BTW, they said it would be @ $900.00
Well you cant tell till you pull the inspection cover and look. If you don't look before the mechanic you will never know. Chewing up a gear like that takes a while but it does happen. It is from a starter not being lined up correctly OR the wrong starter. There are two different tooth count fly wheels on the small blocks and I bet the same is true on the big blocks.

A new starter might buy you some time but without personally looking at it I couldn't tell you.

A NEW as in not rebuilt starter from Autozone is l$90. It works great on my 454 Suburban. Limited lifetime warranty.

There is a bracket off the back of GM starters that is often not reinstalled. It keeps the starter from rocking back. Make sure its present. It does have a purpose and is often the cause of these sort of problems.

$900 is pretty damn steep. Starter at $90 and a fly wheel at about the same. so over $600 in labor for installation. You could buy a tranny jack and save $500 doing it yourself. The transmission has to be pulled to do this and considering the worst transmission I ever pulled was front wheel drive and it still only took me a couple hours to do I would say they are a little high.

I'm and above average shade tree and I rebuild my own transmissions so I do have a very clear idea on whats involved in this.


I would call around and talk to other reputable shops. Most have a hours book and should be able to give you a fair estimate on this. Honestly I would take it to a tranny shop (not a chain place but the local guy with a good reputation) and see if they would do it. They are use to pulling transmissions and could probably have it out in under a hour. I have done this hove done this job on GM trucks and unless I am missing something I would think it would be easier on a P30 where the floor is not right on top of the transmission.
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