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Old 08-29-2016, 10:59 PM   #15
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Much to consider

Well, there are certainly some differing opinions here. I do think the argument about manufacturers' recommendations make sense but I also wonder about the difference between the condition of the vehicle they're selling and the same vehicle 80k miles down the road and how that might influence oil choices later.

My impression of what was said above about never going back to a lighter weight oil was that the change of oil actually changes the seals? Or something about the set-up so that you keep having to fill some gaps that have been created? Is that a well known thing? A hunch? An inference?

It makes sense to me that an older engine has somewhat different characteristics.

I don't mind adding extra 10-30 but I'd like to know a lot more about what's actually going on in this engine and cooling system. I just don't have time to find out right now.

i also have the cost/benefits to consider. I have to pay someone to do this work. I'm not a hobbyist.

Jenniflow
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Old 08-29-2016, 11:21 PM   #16
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Give these guys a call. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/what-is-oil-analysis.php They actually test oil and can tell you exactly what's in it. Send them a sample of your oil and for less than $20 they will tell you a lot about the condition of your engine, fuel in oil, antifreeze in oil and wear patterns by the amount of bearing, cast iron and other metals in your oil. Several samples over many miles will give you a very accurate account of the condition of your engine. They are a small outfit and are very good about explaining things over the phone.
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Old 08-30-2016, 12:11 AM   #17
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Thumbs up Test the oil!

Great idea, Dan, I love it. I'll do that. Thanks.

Jenniflow
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Old 08-30-2016, 05:31 PM   #18
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I agree

I agree with EVERYTHING Boxite had to say
Like Smartsteram I did use blackstone labs and I'll be using them again
I admit I use Amzoil full synthetic in my 2001 Honba C-RV and my 2006 Mazda Miata
I like word of mouth and I use the Amzoil in the two daily drivers, I personally beleieve synthetics are a better (but more expensive) alternative
( that's just my opinion you can take it for what it's worth)
I be decided to go with the Mobil oil because it seems to be the popular choice here and on other RV forums
One more thing... I learned here is that the temperature sending unit on the 454 is on the head it (the tempature) is always hotter on the head I have two gauges the original one on the head and another on the upper radiator hose they read about 15 - 20 difference head is Always hotter!
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Old 08-30-2016, 05:44 PM   #19
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Temps where?

Very interesting, Grosspolluter, about the temps!
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Old 09-09-2016, 01:48 PM   #20
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For the time being, I've decided to stick with the 10-30. We're not burning all that much, maybe a cup every 5-6 hours of driving. If it gets much worse, I'll revisit the question.

And the whole thing seems to be running a lot better since we got the new transmission and are actually, Heavens!, driving it.

more reasons to use the Ole Gal! She gets lonely sitting in storage.
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Old 10-10-2016, 11:36 AM   #21
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Hey Jennyflow,
stay with the 10-30, use a quality oil ftom Penzoil or similar and you're "safe"!
Regarding the Oil consumption, there is a economical way to reduce it from "WYNN'S". A clear oil additive, like liquid Honey. It reduces "blue" oil smog a bit, increases also a bit the compression in your engine.
We used 3 cans (250ml each>> 1000 ml is about 1 quart) and we were "fine".
The oilpan in our "babies" is very small, so regardless the oil consumption, PLEASE change oil & FILTER (!!!) as described in the manual, at least once per year. Especially "short trips" will allways bring some gas in your oil, due to the primitive old fashioned Rochester Quadrajet Carburetor. (You can smell it sometimes on your dipstick!)
Have save trips, Happy Airstreaming, Best, Marcus!


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Old 10-10-2016, 01:05 PM   #22
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Thumbs up Thanks for the Roquefort!

Hey Marcus,

Thanks so much! I have greatly enjoyed reading about your escapades, BTW.

We have not been changing the oil every year because we don't always drive it in a year, which means all the more that we should change it when we do drive it.

Next time I'll try an additive and see what happens and yes, with 10-30. I'm not feeling that adventurous yet.

Jenni
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Old 10-31-2016, 11:17 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Jenniflow View Post
Hey Marcus,

Thanks so much! I have greatly enjoyed reading about your escapades, BTW.

We have not been changing the oil every year because we don't always drive it in a year, which means all the more that we should change it when we do drive it.

Next time I'll try an additive and see what happens and yes, with 10-30. I'm not feeling that adventurous yet.

Jenni
Snakeoil additives are a waste of your money, but a placebo for your concern, and may actually harm your engine. If it were good for your engine, then why do you suppose engine mfr's threaten to void your warranty if you don't follow their recommendations (which never require additives?) And, BTW... just because an engine is beyond warranty does not change the engine's maintenance requirements. Don't do after-the-warranty what you would not do during.

Changing the oil in accordance to mileage-useage is certainly smart.

Changing the oil in accordance with chronological-useage is also smart. Maybe even smarter. Why?
Because when you burn (oxidize) carbon-fuel (Hydro-Carbons) the by-products are largely carbon monoxide/dioxides (CO/CO2) and WATER (H2O). Most of that water goes out your tailpipe as vapor, but some of it bypasses your piston rings and goes into your crankcase where it cools, condenses, and mixes with your oil.
A lot of that evaporates again when the engine is operated/hot and exits the crankcase (usually going into the intakes to be burned again or overboard to atmosphere.)
But... when you let that engine shut down and SIT for a year.... the moisture in the crankcase begins to eat/rust-up the interior parts of your engine, creating serious damage in the short and the long term. Some folks recommend starting up a stored engine and running it 20-30 minutes every so often as a method of recoating the internal parts with oil that may have drained off. BAD IDEA!
All that does is contribute MORE WATER to the oil,...which you just now RECOATED onto all the internal parts! Each time you do that you make it worse and worse.
The best way to store an engine is to drain the oil at the end of the service-period while the engine is still hot. Operate the engine only a few minutes after the oil change to recoat interior parts with the fresh oil, then seal the intake and exhaust with wax paper/etc. I stick an upside-down wax-paper Dixie-cup into the tailpipe and use a rubber-band or string to tie plastic-wrap across the air intake (to prevent ingress of humid atmosphere and vermin as the daily temps increase/decrease and air exchanges in/out of intakes/exhausts) and do not operate the engine again until ready for regular service. (Even more stringent storage can include replacement of spark plugs with dessicant-plugs, removal of battery, tires, etc to long-term storage, but that is beyond what most owners are willing to accomplish.)
Anyway...don't long-term store with old oil and don't short-term operate a stored engine. (And don't forget to remove that intake wax-paper before starting it up again.) Hope this helps.
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Old 10-31-2016, 11:36 AM   #24
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Sounds like good advice

Hey Boxite,

Thanks so much for this. It makes plenty of sense to me and I wish I'd heard this years ago.

Unfortunately, I've already stored the unit with the old oil I guess I'll do it better next time.

Thanks again,

Jenniflow
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Old 10-31-2016, 11:50 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Jenniflow View Post
Hey Boxite,

Thanks so much for this. It makes plenty of sense to me and I wish I'd heard this years ago.

Unfortunately, I've already stored the unit with the old oil I guess I'll do it better next time.

Thanks again,

Jenniflow
Depending upon the storage facility/situation, you might still drain the old oil, change the filter, then start it up for a few minutes to circulate the oil, then shut it down before it heats up. Just a suggestion.
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Old 10-31-2016, 12:01 PM   #26
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Considering an oil change now

Well, I'm certainly considering it now. Although the coach is 5 hours away.

Jennifer
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Old 10-31-2016, 01:07 PM   #27
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Hi Jennifer My experience is I use a full synthetic 10-30 in my 454 I have my 1988 325 in my yard so I run my unit once a month for about 45 mins [so that is different than some thoughts given already]My unit has almost 30000 miles and does not use oil. I have a 2003 Ford f150 with over 400000 klks or 240000 miles and have had great success in using synthetic oils. This fall I put in Amzoil synthetic to see if it does any more improvement. we have varied climate that get cold so that may change your requirements,I do believe you should change oil before storage. Jonathan
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Old 10-31-2016, 03:15 PM   #28
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Thumbs up "experienced" engine?

Hey Jonathan,

Your engine is a lot less "experienced" than mine. I've got over 80K on it.

I just replaced the tranny though! (yikes)

For some reason, I'm nervous about using synthetic. Maybe they didn't have it in mind when they built mine and would have recommended if they had.

I think I'll start with better hygiene (!) as Boxite suggested, and see how far I get. If I hear persuasively from many other Streamers that the 10-30 synthetic is the way to go, maybe I'll switch then.

In the meantime, we've got some basics to improve.

Thanks for your thoughtful comments!

Jenniflow
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