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Old 07-25-2015, 10:50 AM   #1
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Where is the AC recharge ports for dash?

I'm trying to get my dash AC working and can't seem to find the AC High and Low side recharge ports on my 92 36' LY. Anybody have a clue as to where they're located? I've looked under the dog house and under the hood but still nothing. I see the compressor, the receiver dryer and the condenser but, besides a lot of metal and rubber tubing, that's it. I turn the AC on and the compressor turns. Just nothing gets hot or hold. Assuming I have little to no Freon.
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Old 07-25-2015, 04:57 PM   #2
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Although it sounds like you've already looked at the compressor it might pay to look again. On the 1984 310 and 1986 345 that I've had both hi and lo fittings were located on the compressor lines at the pump.

Just a thought...

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Old 07-25-2015, 06:17 PM   #3
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Caution: If you do charge directly into the suction side of your compressor, be extremely careful not to introduce liquid freon - gas only!!
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Old 07-26-2015, 11:11 AM   #4
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I'll take another look. It may be that I missed them because of caps over the schrader valves.
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Old 07-26-2015, 05:34 PM   #5
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OK I feel a little stupid since I found the High and Low side ports on the backside of the compressor. Now I need to figure out what to do. I checked and there was no pressure in the system. I've owned the MH for 4 years and the PO didn't drive it for at least 3 years prior to that. I know I have a leak but don't know how bad of a leak since it could have been at least 7 years for the leak to empty the system. I'm pretty sure that the system always had R12 since there are no adaptors or stickers indicating any conversion.

Now my quandary... Do I convert to R134 or do I try one of the R12 alternatives? I know I need to replace the receiver/drier but what else should I replace as simple maintenance? What is the best way to find any leak sources?

Please don't tell me to take it to a "professional" since I'm a DIY guy and a little $$$ constrained.
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Old 07-26-2015, 05:50 PM   #6
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I have had excellent results with the "freeze12" alternate also real r 12 is usually available on e-bay for not a whole lot of money, for a time it was crazy expensive but the demand has dropped off so much as the old cars fade away that its not like gold any more
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Old 07-26-2015, 10:47 PM   #7
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Switch to R134a, the automotive world has been successfully using it for about 20 years now. The easiest way to find a leak is to put a can of refrigerant in the system and use a sniffer to look for the leak. You can also add a can of dye but it can be hard to see in some spots. Do not try to pressurize the system with air as you introduce too much moisture which is very difficult to get out of the system.
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Old 07-27-2015, 07:29 PM   #8
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Where is the AC recharge ports for dash?

Autozone has AC tools to borrow at no charge.

The R134 systems are not as efficient as the R112. They generally incorporate a larger compressor, condenser, and evaporator. Running 134 in a 112 system will significantly reduce the performance. The orifice is really the only thing that has to be changed along with the high and low fittings to do a legitimate conversion.

If the system is empty, I'd pressurize it with air or ideally nitrogen and check for leaks with soapy water.

Borrow a manifold and vacuum pump from AutoZone and pump the system down. If it holds a vacuum recharge it with the specified amount of freon. Too much can degrade performance as much as too little and cost you a bunch of money and really piss off Al Gore when you vent the excess.

The pump shaft seal is the biggest culprit. Good time to replace the drier too. If the pump is shot it probably blew crap through the rest of the system. This will probably mess up the new pump and plug the expansion valve unless you flush the entire system. All the parts stores carry AC flushing solvent. Just blow it through the individual lines, condenser, and evaporator. Check the seals and reassemble.

Remember to add the specified amount of compressor oil. Use unadulterated freon. No oil or sealant. Leak die is ok!

Good luck!
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Old 07-28-2015, 12:32 PM   #9
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Thanks for the heads up on the Autozone tool rental program. I'll be checking into that for sure.

One problem I'm running into is I don't have a reliable AC system diagram. It looks to me like I have a receiver/drier and expansion valve but all the P30 part listings for my year show an orifice tube instead. The compressor looks completely different as well. Anyone have a idea where I can find out what components are used on a 1992 LY on a P30 Chassis? I've thought about contacting AS to see if they have more information but that's always an experience with the older MHs.
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Old 07-28-2015, 07:50 PM   #10
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Being that the MOTORHOME has a belt driven cooling fan, doing a retro-fit to R-134 is a mistake. You are asking for trouble as your high side pressure will exceed 250 PSI on any given day at an idle. Do yourself a favor...replace your receiver/dryer about 38 bucks, for sure it is bad, the desiccant in them only last 5-7 years, and the expansion valve which is mounted on the R/S firewall to the evaporator. Disconnect all A/C lines and replace o-rings. Vacuum system down. For 30 minutes and check for leaks. The airstream systems are bulletproof. I have never seen an AC condenser that shares an oil cooler with it but that is what I have on my 89 325LE. Many pictures of the AC components in my topic "It's Never Done". By the way you can find R-12 in just about any antique shop for about 5 bucks a can. You need 3 cans. Also check the pressure switch on the receiver/dryer to make sure at 120 PSI it closes and grounds the relay for the two electric fans mounted in front of the condenser. Regards, bob
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Old 07-30-2015, 10:32 AM   #11
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Let's beat the drum again

Quote:
Originally Posted by 92landyacht View Post
OK I found the High and Low side ports on the backside of the compressor. Now I need to figure out what to do. I checked and there was no pressure in the system. I've owned the MH for 4 years and the PO didn't drive it for at least 3 years prior to that. I know I have a leak but don't know how bad of a leak since it could have been at least 7 years for the leak to empty the system. I'm pretty sure that the system always had R12 since there are no adaptors or stickers indicating any conversion.

Now my quandary... Do I convert to R134 or do I try one of the R12 alternatives? I know I need to replace the receiver/drier but what else should I replace as simple maintenance? What is the best way to find any leak sources?

Please don't tell me to take it to a "professional" since I'm a DIY guy and a little $$$ constrained.
Mr. Landyacht, you have gotten some good info and tips from the posted replies already. I meant to provide an earlier response, but have only gotten this ready today. All I've done is lay out in step by step form, what I would do to repair the A/C system. Please incorporate all the good info already provided into what I'm posting.

The following is a general guideline for evaluating and repairing an automotive air conditioner, such as you described in your posting.
Determine if the system has a leak.
1. Using a pressure gauge, if you donít have a set of hoses and gauges, put the gauge on the low pressure valve and see if there is any pressure at all. If no pressure, then the system is likely empty of Freon.
2. As a double check, start the engine and activate the air conditioner (A/C), then put the gauge on the low pressure fitting. If still no pressure, you may assume the system is empty of Freon.
Note: if you have a set of A/C hoses and gauges, then you likely know how to use them. Attach the hoses and read the gauges to determine if the system has no Freon.
3. If the system is thought to be without Freon, attach a vacuum pump and pull a vacuum on the system. You should have a gauge that can read vacuum. The pump should be able to get the system down to 24 in. vacuum or even to better than 28 in.
4. Disconnect the pump and let the system sit for 1 hour. Read the vacuum remaining. If there is no vacuum, the system has a leak. If the system retains some vacuum, then there may a slow leak.
5. This completes the process for determining whether there is a leak. Up until this point, you have not changed the system at all.
Note: slow leaks are caused by very small pinholes in the evaporator, condenser, failing line connections, or the seal ring in the pump may be worn. No vacuum can be caused by all of these plus mechanical failures in the A/C compressor.

Finding the leak
1. You can use Freon R12 and an electronic sniffer. Pull a vacuum on the system then add a can of R12. Use the sniffer until you find the point where the Freon is escaping. After you find the leak, continue to check the whole system before the Freon escapes. There could be more than one leak.
2. If you donít have a leak sniffer, you can pressurize the system with about 30 psi of air or dry nitrogen (which is better) and then use liquid leak solution to look for bubbles at leak sites.
3. Regardless of the leak source, you will want to install a new dryer.
4. Tighten the fittings or replace the leaking part(s), then pull a vacuum and wait an hour to recheck the vacuum reading. If the vacuum is good, then you are ready to add the R12 Freon.
5. There should be a sticker on the vehicle which states the amount of Freon by weight that the system requires. Add that amount while the engine is running and the A/C activated.
6. If you only have a stick or dial low pressure gauge; then, with the engine running and A/C engaged, read the low pressure. The gauge likely will show the acceptable pressure level by a color code. Add additional R12 Freon if necessary to bring the pressure up to the good indication.
7. If you have a set of hoses and gauges, then you can read the high and low pressure line readings and get a better sense that the system is fully recharged and operating nominally. Remember to correct pressure readings for ambient temperature.
More free advice: only use real R12 Freon in an R12 system. Many of the replacement gases are made to be sold, and whether the substitute will work is anyoneís guess. More systems have been ruined than repaired. Early on, some con artists were packaging butane in cans and sold the stuff as a replacement. Not only did it not work, it was a flammable, explosive gas and blew up many systems and started fires. Whatever you have to pay for R12 it will be worth it. I know someone who still has a stash of R12 that he paid 88 cents per can when R12 was closing out. The 1969 Charger and the 1972 Chrysler NY 4 door hardtop it supports still blow cool air out of the dash vents. No problems at all.
Good luck. Wishing you thousands of miles of cool travel in your A/S motor home.
Let's Roll !
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Old 07-31-2015, 11:03 AM   #12
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I've looked everywhere and can't find a sticker to tell me how much Freon is needed. I do have a gauge set coming and I'll be stopping by Harbor Freight to pick up a vacuum pump unless I can borrow one from Auto Zone tool rental. I'll check with them first. Figure I'll draw down the system and see if I have any leaks first. If so I'll put in some dye and see if I can spot the leaks.

Never had dash air since I purchased the unit. Usually just run the generator and the front AC.
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Old 07-31-2015, 03:00 PM   #13
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OK, I just picked up a vacuum pump from Autozone. Now waiting for my new gauge set to be delivered. Once it arrives I'll draw down the system and see how much of a leak I have. Now I'm in the market for some R-12. Just don't know how much to get.
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Old 07-31-2015, 05:51 PM   #14
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Don't forget the receiver/dryer. Like I said....3 cans will do it. While the compressor is running/engaged look for bubbles in the sight glass of the receiver/dryer. When the bubbles disappear the system is full. Do not overcharge the system, just add freon to the low side/blue hose until the bubbles disappear. Make sure your electric fans come on at around 150 PSI. High side/red gauge. On a day like today 90 degrees. High side should be no more than 220 PSI and low side should be around 40 PSI. Spray water from a garden hose through condenser/oil cooler to clean it out.
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