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Old 05-03-2003, 10:42 PM   #1
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weekend warriors-rear brakes

rear drum brakes on the P-30 are a bitch!
The axle shaft has to be pulled and the drum weighs a ton. I had a leaky oil seal and decided to go all the way, seals, bearings, shoes and wheel cylinders.
Two places here in Austin turned me down on the rear brake job. Did not want to take it to someone I didn't know.
$300.- in parts and lots of my free labor.
I wonder what Mr Goodwrench wants for a job like that.
Best thing they ever did is change to rear disk brakes.
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Old 05-04-2003, 06:54 AM   #2
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heavy

peter

you may want to consider renting an adjustable transmission jack. (if you haven't put it back together yet!)

you could strap the drum to it and jack it back into position. they adjust fore and aft and side to side. making line up easy.

might help ensure you don't damage the oil seal during the reinstall.

i did a rear brake job on a one ton chev a while back, yer right they are HEAVY!

john

ps. nice work btw!
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Old 05-04-2003, 08:12 AM   #3
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thanx for the tip, John but she is all back together. It only took me from 8-10, am and pm that is.
Now I know the job was done right with the good quality parts.
Since the bleeder valves on the rear drums are truly impossible to reach, I also replaced the master cylinder to not have to mess with it again.
Rocky Mountains here we come.......
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Old 05-04-2003, 08:14 AM   #4
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Life must be good for Austin mechanics if they are turning down work. Truck parts are heavy, but there is a lot more space to work than on cars. I hate getting behind the axles on the smaller cars to get springs back on. The drums don't look too bad, how were the shoes, how many miles?

John
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Old 05-04-2003, 08:50 AM   #5
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I hate drum brakes with a passion!! Did you put them back together right?? I always do mine one side at a time, easier to remember what goes where and if you forget go look at the other side for reference. Some of the newer ones have separate drum and hub assemblies, helps lighten the load. I screwed up on the rears on my F-250 a few years back, put the adjusters in backwards, not a job to do while guzzling beer, I found out!!

Just one comment, correct me if I am wrong but it looks like your jackstands may be a bit undersized, I know, one of the hazards of posting a pic but just an observation from a helpful and concerned friend.

Chas
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Old 05-04-2003, 09:35 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chas

...
Just one comment, correct me if I am wrong but it looks like your jackstands may be a bit undersized, I know, one of the hazards of posting a pic but just an observation from a helpful and concerned friend.

Chas
You are right, its just for decorations and to make the cat feel better when she comes to check the work in progress.
I use 2 12 ton bottle jacks. If it would blow the seals, the most it could drop is 2 inches.
Don't ever trust the way you find it, you never know who was guzzling beer the last time.
One of the springs was put in backwards.
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Old 05-04-2003, 09:43 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by 74Argosy24MH
...The drums don't look too bad, how were the shoes, how many miles?

John
The shoes and the drums looked good, except one side was soaked in gear oil. I just replaced all the shoes.
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Old 05-04-2003, 10:07 AM   #8
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good job perer
mr goodwrench is also one to not do work . tryed to get him to do some work and i got that the dont have the special tools required to do the job. go to this other shop. good advice the other shop labor was $20 an hour cheaper. lol
al
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Old 05-04-2003, 09:08 PM   #9
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Quote:
I also replaced the master cylinder
The rear brakes must have been easy compared to getting to that. Mine is nearly impossible to even check fluid.
I need to flush them and have been wondering how I am going to get the bleeder on.

John
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Old 05-04-2003, 10:10 PM   #10
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The master cylinder is the easy part, once the left front wheel is gone. They make this great air pressure driven brake bleeder that eliminates the third person to pump the pedal. Just one person at the valve and one constantly checking the master with a mirror and filling the reservoir.
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Old 09-06-2004, 07:47 PM   #11
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If you want it done right - do it yourself

Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH-79MH
rear drum brakes on the P-30 are a bitch!........
Best thing they ever did is change to rear disk brakes.
Well, I'm about to find out just what it takes to pull a rear rotor.

The worst thing is - I shouldn't have to.

Before I bought the MoHo at 72,000 miles I paid an extremely questionable shop to change all of the fluids and check a number of things, including all of the brakes - was told the front's were 50%, and the rears 40% - did my own visual on the fronts - they were at least 50%, so I didn't check the rears myself.

Long story short, today a rider in the coach heard "metal to metal" (I can't hardly hear anything at all). I put the unit back up on the jackstands and pulled the curb side rear duals this afternoon. What I found was not a pretty sight.

Now, with 80,000 miles on the coach - I fear that the rear rotor is too deeply gouged to be safely put back in service.

Another example of shoddy "paid for" service (IMO).

COULD the brakes have gone from 40% to less than zero in 9,000 miles? - Possibly, but the fronts have no noticable wear - I'll let ya'll know what a rear rotor costs.

As Peter said in an earlier post - it's hard to find a reputable shop to work on an (almost) antique.

Brake lines and master cylinder will also be replaced.

I hate doing work that "should" have been avoided.

Make note to self - document and get in writing any work done by "shop".
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Old 09-06-2004, 09:16 PM   #12
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Dennis,
Don't forget to check the tags brakes. The master cyl is pretty easy once you pull the sheet metal shield. I also paid a shop to replace the fronts before delivery. $975 later and the brakes were terrible when it arrived. I replaced the leaking master cylinder for about $60 at NAPA and an evening on my back. Thats fixed it for good. It did not make for a good first RV Dealership experience.

I haven't pulled the rears but I did the fronts when I replaced the inner and outer bearings a few months ago. First side took about an hour and a half and the second took about 45 minutes.
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Old 09-07-2004, 07:46 AM   #13
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The front are the same as the rear, probably even the same pads, just an extra tire on each side to deal with. Block it up well, that is a lot of weight. Being as the mechanic did such a thorough job I would pull the rear axle cover while it is apart. Gear lube is cheap and if there is a lot of crap in the housing you can also clean the axle tubes. Don't forget jack shaft gaskets.

John
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Old 09-07-2004, 08:24 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 74Argosy24MH
..... pull the rear axle cover while it is apart. Gear lube is cheap and if there is a lot of crap in the housing you can also clean the axle tubes. Don't forget jack shaft gaskets.
Well, I got an ugly surprise today....and halloween is still two months away.

I pulled the caliper and pads - the previous mentioned mechanic may have been right with his comment about 40% brakes left - too bad it was all on the inside pad.

Does anyone have a comment on the outside pad being totally disintegrated and the inside pad still having 50% left?

I have a rebuilt caliper, a good set of pads, and gaskets, seals, and a new rotor coming tomorrow.

Things came apart relatively easily - the axel shaft simply pulled out by hand (the differential was serviced just a few months ago when the transmission was rebuilt, so fluid is still good). The differential service consisted of pulling the rear differential cover, cleaning and inspecting, resealing the cover and filling with new fluid.
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