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Old 03-13-2006, 03:37 PM   #71
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From the pictures shown , the left lug on the isolator should be from vehicle battery . The center lug should go to the alternator , and the right lug go to charge the house battery .The smaller wire on the left lug looks like it was added to supply something aftermarket ( should be hot ) which also means something in the coach is presently working , unless you have lost chassis ground.
The connection to the left of the isolator I believe is a simple juction block and not a curcuit breaker as thought before , typical of GM . The heavy center wire going to the alternator is also a typical place for GM to put an inline fusable link , it may be hidden under some of the wire loom . You had mentioned before that you had not found any fusable links , this would be highly unusual in any pre '89 product .

As mentioned previously , a good start would be to by-pass the isolator . Remove the wire from the right side of the junction block and the left side of the isolator (remove ground from battery first) . Then take wire from center lug of isolator and connect to right side of junction block.
This should give you power to the alternator and hopefully the fuse block . If it doen't you have a bad wire from the juction block to the alternator . If it does you have a bad isolator .

This stuff is frustrating enough on a good day , hope your'e feeling better . Good luck
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Old 03-13-2006, 03:49 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garry
John HD has outlined a good way to start with the basics of troubleshooting an open wire, you can also use an ohm meter.I think you will have to start with just one item (forget the key) pick something that should have power all the time like a headlight or parking light turn the light switch on and go from there. When you find the problem why the lights don’t work everything else will fall into place.

Garry

(had to edit to make it readable)
This has been done. Each and every circuit, wire, strand, and conductuctible dust has been traced to its source. We even tore open the steering column. No problems have been noted. I am going to by-pass the isolator next.
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Old 03-13-2006, 04:14 PM   #73
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This makes sense, except that I am under the delusion that the left hand post on the isolator is the starting/alternator/lights/ horn and all that other stuff circuit, and the RH post on the isolator is the house batteries. It makes little sense to me that your problem would be in the house battery circuit, but--nothing ventured, nothing gained.

I am beginnning to think that there is not one problem, but a series of problems. I still think that there is a ground problem.

I am reminded of the comment of Thomas Edison when asked about his years of failure to find a suitable filament for a light bulb. He said-- Ï haven't failed. I just know 10,000 things that don't work!!

R
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Old 03-13-2006, 05:09 PM   #74
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Chummy Runs!
I by-passed the battery isolator, honked the horn and it blared away, turned the ignition key and the engine started right up and asked what took me so long? Tried the turn signals and I even had them wired correctly. Looked at the tach and it was working. The fuel gauge registered fuel, the oil pressure gauge had oil pressure showing and the lights worked.
Why did the isolator burn out? I really don't care as long as it does not happen again. Tomorrow I will search for a new isolator. We have a plethora of marine shops around here so I should be able to find one.
Thanks to everyone who helped on this one. I can not say how much I appreciate the support and advice.
Now if anyone needs to know where a wire goes or what a particular wire does I think I just might know. I plan to take some pictures of the wiring mess before we start to clean it up.
Thanks Guys!!!
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Old 03-13-2006, 05:12 PM   #75
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good for you!

john
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Old 03-13-2006, 05:20 PM   #76
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Yahoo!!!!!
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Old 03-13-2006, 05:41 PM   #77
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O, Lord, for what we are about to receive, let us truly be thankful!!

Ch Kent: you will need to know what the MAX amperage your alternator puts out in order to buy a correctly sized isolator. The only variable is the diodes' ability to withstand higher amperages--so higher rated diodes are bigger and therefore higher rated isolators are bigger (to disipate more heat) and more expensive. I forget the rule of thumb for this--perhaps someone else has it at hand.

I don't know about you--but we all feel much better. You will pardon my saying so, but I never thought Chummy would be happy as a flower pot!!
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Old 03-13-2006, 05:50 PM   #78
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I would like to make a prediction:
Once the new Isolator is in place, hooked up just like it was before, Chummy will not have power to the main fuse block.
The current Isolator is probably not even defective.
All what the good Chaplain did with by-passing the Isolator, is providing an alternate source to the main fuse block via the alternator.
This can not be a permanent solution, since the MH will loose charging ability to the coach battery bank.
All of this points to the very first wire from the starter solenoid to a junction block to be bad due to a blown fusible link.
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Old 03-13-2006, 06:11 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH-79MH
I would like to make a prediction:
Once the new Isolator is in place, hooked up just like it was before, Chummy will not have power to the main fuse block.
The current Isolator is probably not even defective.
All what the good Chaplain did with by-passing the Isolator, is providing an alternate source to the main fuse block via the alternator.
This can not be a permanent solution, since the MH will loose charging ability to the coach battery bank.
All of this points to the very first wire from the starter solenoid to a junction block to be bad due to a blown fusible link.
Ok, fair enough, and easy to check.

If CH Kent dismounts the battery isolator and checks the resistance of each diode, they should be the same if the unit is good. If they are, then PeterH may be on to something. You could further test his idea with a jumper run directly from the solenoid to the remounted, good battery isolator, or the various junction blocks wired to it. If the jumper makes the system work.............At least I think I have understood him correctly

R
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Old 03-13-2006, 07:21 PM   #80
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another low worth 2cents...

On my Chevy Astro - the positive to the starter was a fusible link....WITHIN THE CABLE ITSELF. The cable was made to "melt" under the insulation jacket - there reallly was no way to see it. IF the new isolator doesn't work, I think testing the resistence of the wires may be the ticket.
Marc
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Old 03-13-2006, 07:22 PM   #81
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Quote:
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Ok, fair enough, and easy to check.
..................At least I think I have understood him correctly

R
One thing to keep in mind:
Isolators have 1 function: to allow simultaneous charging of two or more batteries from one alternator without connecting the batteries together.

Left Post: 12+ Motor Battery
Center Post: Alternator
right Post: 12+ Coach batteries

thats it, nothing more

what Chaplain Kent did is connect the 12+ Motor battery to the alternator charging circuit, which the diodes in the Isolator are supposed to prevent.
This is where I would look for trouble:
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Old 03-13-2006, 07:41 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaplain Kent
Chummy Runs!
Thanks Guys!!!
I've been following this thread, worrying about Chummy and I'm so happy you're on the road to victory. Obviously from additional posts, you may have a few other things to check out, but goodness, it's good to hear an engine turn over, isn't it? Whew...

I too think Chummy wouldn't be happy as a flower pot.

Tin Lizzie
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Old 03-13-2006, 07:45 PM   #83
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well chaplain kent and other following this circuit.......

i'm happy she started.......and hope for the best.

i do have one series of questions...for the wired guys or gals......

you had a diesel conversion?

what if any wiring needed modification for this?

does the diesel sit on rubber mounts?

and if so does this alter the grounding in anyway?

doesn't a new ground need to be created from engine to frame?

cheers
2air'
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Old 03-13-2006, 07:53 PM   #84
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Yes, I understood you correctly. So, just in case I get to do this some dark night, a jumper from the solenoid post to which 14 Red 2E is attached running to the junction box marked No10--or presumably any successive junction box, or even the post on the battery isolator--should circumvent the blown fusable link in the wire marked 14 red 2E.

It sure would have been useful to have a drawing such as this in troubleshooting CH Kent's problem. How do I find one? I would need one for the 454 in 91. Others obviously vary.

R
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