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Old 03-08-2006, 10:34 AM   #29
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I believe that I may have the wiring diagram for my diesel. I would assume it is the same as yours but having looked at it, it doesn't tell me much. I used to read these things and this one is not very good. If you do need it, I will scan it and e-mail it to you.

I assume you have a test light. I would start with the cable where it connects to the battery and work up to the switch. If you have power to one guage though, you must have power to the switch. It might have been grounded to that metal plate, but I would doubt it. There should be a heavy ground wire connected to the switch.

You could always trying running a wire from the switch to some metal on the coach and see if that makes a difference. In other words, create a ground with a wire.

Another thing I learned with mine was that the ground strap from the battery compartment to the frame was corroded and wouldn't carry the load of the starter, but would allow other things drawing less amps to function. I took this off and cleaned it and it made a huge difference.
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Old 03-08-2006, 12:20 PM   #30
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Chaplain...have you seen this?? They resently did the same job, maybe if nothing else a phone call to them would be of help..
http://www.gmccoop.com/images/Rick-dash-here-2.jpg
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Old 03-08-2006, 03:48 PM   #31
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First off I want to say a big thank-you to Norbert for coming all the way to Milwaukee to help with this problem. Second it is not fixed. Norbert may chime in later when he arrives home and be more technical than me. We traced the power from the battery to a relay switch under the hood. After that there is no power. The fuse box has no power front or back. After Norbert left I took off the dog house and found that there is no power to the alternator or any of the connections by the engine. I can find no fuse-able links or another fuse box. I have traced the wires from the battery to that relay switch and out of it with power then I have followed the wires along to the next connection at the alternator and no power. Along the way there are no connections or anything that I could see as a fuse able link. What am I missing? I do have the wiring diagram as good as it is, actually it is for a gas engine and not a diesel. They put in all sorts of disclaimers saying this is a gas engine and the diesel has been modified.
Attached are three pictures. First is the blue relay box to which we have power in and out of. Second is the back of the fuse box. Norbert felt it looked like it had been burned. There is no power to the box now and all fuses are OK. Third is just a general area picture.
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Old 03-08-2006, 04:12 PM   #32
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Cool

Kent, that fuse box is charred!! It is altogether posible that the cable running from the relay to the fuse box has lost it's continuity. They do deteriorate over time and can have a break inside the covering that you can't see. Sometime or other that fuse box has been shorted and could have caused it.
Strip the wire from the relay where it enters the fuse box and see if there is power there.

You need to replace that fuse box.
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Old 03-08-2006, 04:16 PM   #33
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well chaplain......

sorry it wasn't simple...i was hoping for the gear shift shift.

knowing nothing about the diesel conversion....
but also knowing my psd has 2 batteries and a beefier alternator...

i have a question....

does the izusu conversion take the same amt of juice to crank as the old gaser?....i mean with glow plugs and higher compresion & mass doesn't it take more umpfffff to crank that baby? would that affect the fuse box?

if so, surely the mod people would have made any needed changes to the electrical side....

have you/ can you try jump starting it?.....probably this wouldn't work either since you are getting no power now to the starter...

the dash change over is now casting a shadow....and undoing everything back to before brings another set of issues...

best wishes on a resolution....the suspense is killin' me.

and kudos to norbert........i'm buyin' him a beverage next time!

cheers
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Old 03-08-2006, 04:22 PM   #34
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Something else I see is one of those crimped connectors on a wire coming from the fuse box. Those things are notorious for losing connectivity. Check each end of that for power.
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Old 03-08-2006, 04:23 PM   #35
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what we know:
there is no power to the ignition switch.
there is some damage to the back of the fuse block- see photo
lack of a good schematic to help in troubleshooting.
what we dont know:
where does the ignition switch hot terminate.
is there another fuse block somewhere else
norby
p.s. i wish i could have spent some more time....i just missed getting stuck in rush hour....
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Old 03-08-2006, 06:22 PM   #36
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Okay, I see a problem that needs to be fixed, even though it may not be THE problem. There is a circuit breaker with a yellow wire running in and out, with some VERY rusty, non-conducting, connectors on it. I am not there, so I don't know where it goes, but I would replace it because it is bad. They are cheap, and it is a thing that needs to be done, whether it fixes the main problem or not.
I'll take another look at the photos, and if I don't see anything obvious, I can head over to my friend's shop. He has a fleet of Isuzu FSR trucks, with many of the same electrical doodads you have.
After looking at the second photo of the "relay", I noticed you have another circuit breaker running off the relay, going into the coach. The studs and connectors are rusty on that one, as well.
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Old 03-08-2006, 06:27 PM   #37
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I don't think that this will help immediately, but.....the blue thing is not a relay, but a battery isolator. Or at least I think it is. If true, you should have 0 volts measured between the alternator positive post and the center post of the isolator with the ignition ON, and 12V measured to any good ground from either of the two outer posts, which should go to your battery banks, When things begin to work correctly.

My 350 is at my mechanic, for a more limited electrical problem (no battery charging, and a few other warts) which I gave up trying to sort out because of the recent back surgery. His comment was that it was probably one of GM's fusable links. I'll let everybody know the gory details of the outcome when I get it back. This guy fixes Mercedes diesels for work, builds racing cars for fun, and is the best I have ever seen. I allow no other human to touch my cars.

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Old 03-08-2006, 08:37 PM   #38
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I see two circuit breakers in the picture, one just to the right of the fuse block and one to the left of the battery isolator. Both brakers look pretty rough but are easy to check with a meter.
Since you have no power to the fuse box I suspect a missing ground and since you only worked "inside" the RV the main suspect has to be something you did while working on the new dash.
The only other thing I can think of is the neutral saftey switch on the steering column may have somehow been disconnected and that would kill the ignition switch but not all the other stuff.
Make sure you have checked all ground connections in the area you were working before tearing into everything else since you may end up inducing additional problems.
Wish I could help more but not being there makes it had to do much, best of luck.

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Old 03-08-2006, 11:41 PM   #39
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Kent,
I found this diagram of an isolator. It looks like what you have in the pictures. If your MH is wired like this picture, the problem may lie in another wire from your battery and not the one going to this device. This box directs voltage from the altenator to the batteries on board. The power to the things like the horn, lights etc come from another wire at the battery. When I work on problems like this I always look at things I did before the problem happened. I would look at the wires from the battery and find the one going to the dash area. I wish I could be of more help.
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Old 03-09-2006, 09:50 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azflycaster
Kent,
I found this diagram of an isolator. It looks like what you have in the pictures. If your MH is wired like this picture, the problem may lie in another wire from your battery and not the one going to this device. This box directs voltage from the altenator to the batteries on board. The power to the things like the horn, lights etc come from another wire at the battery. When I work on problems like this I always look at things I did before the problem happened. I would look at the wires from the battery and find the one going to the dash area. I wish I could be of more help.
All: At the risk of stating the obvious, the diagram which is shown by azf is also a common setup on small boats. It is confusing in that it shows the ignition wires coming directly from the battery1 bank. They usually don't, and they don't on the AS (meaning, don't expect to see a separate ignition wire actually attached to a battery). The ignition wire can be attached anywhere between the battery and the post on the isolator. Again, it (the key switch) must be grounded to work.

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Old 03-09-2006, 11:28 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ralley
The ignition wire can be attached anywhere between the battery and the post on the isolator. Again, it (the key switch) must be grounded to work.
can you post a typical switch schematic? i fail to see why a switch has to be grounded.....
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Old 03-09-2006, 01:42 PM   #42
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You Have Not Gone To An Upgraded Alternator Have You? I Mean If It Is Higher Amp Rated Than The Isolator Is, That Could Be A Problem. I Replaced My Isolator With A 200 Amp When I Went To A 135 Amp Alt.
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