Turbo 400 / 4L80E

[choctawmel]

Originally Posted by LimeyRich

Sorry no pics this time.
Very pleased to report this evening that all gear positions are working from the drivers seat !!
I do not have an overdrive bezel yet, but all gear positions are easy to figure out.

Park is right on the P
Reverse lines up perfectly with the R
Neutral also lines up, a bit to the left, but on the N
Overdrive is just on the left side of D
Drive is just on the right side of D
Second just grazes the right side of the 2
First (low) is just to the right of the 1
It just took about 20 minutes of minor cable adjustments, all at the transmission end.

This is why I ponied up the $500 to buy a custom built shifter. Pull the handle to the wanted gear, and it is that gear.

[LimeyRich]

I'll bet that"s a sweet shifter set up Mel.
Unfortunately I'm spending way more than planned , so I just have to make what I have work.. Oh, well it's keeping me from running the roads
OK back to cutting and grinding cross members.

[LimeyRich]

About 28 hrs into the cross member re-fabrication so far ( don't be too alarmed at that, I'm just very slow at doing things nowadays).
Getting very close!
It now looks like a little more fitting, some 1/4" steel plate, 8 X 3/8" x1 1/4" grade 5 bolts and locking nuts, and some welding will do it. I'm making a strong, but easily removable 3 piece cross member, utilizing 2 original cross members.
I will get in process pics soon.
Before I can do a final assembly on the cross member, I need to temporarily install the Banks headers to check for clearance problems.
Onwards through the Fog!
All the best. Rich

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by LimeyRich

I'll bet that"s a sweet shifter set up Mel.
Unfortunately I'm spending way more than planned , so I just have to make what I have work.. Oh, well it's keeping me from running the roads
OK back to cutting and grinding cross members.

Rich,

Can you create a new label for the shifter so the pointer lines up properly? You might try a vinyl sign company, they could probably make something that would work.

Brad

[choctawmel]

When I was doing mine, I found (internet search)a adjustable shift bracket that replaced the lever on the transmission shift shaft. Being able to adjust the the throw would maybe get your shift indicator closer to right. I didn't get it because I went with the the custom make one. When the PO had the 545 Allison installed the column shift was mostly removed.

[LimeyRich]

The throw on mine looks to be right where it should be for the 4L80, the TH400 shift bezel lettering pattern just doesn't cut it though
The really good news is that I should be able to get the correct bezel for the overdrive transmission. It is a standard Chevy part, they are out there, I have seen them before, I just need to search.
Got my cross member reinforcing plates today, 6 pieces of 1/4" mild steel plate, cut to my specs for $32.10 including tax. Saved me about two full days of labor, maybe more. The drill bits I bought today were lots more!

It's hard to believe I was once in the United Steelworkers. Seems almost like a different lifetime. LOL

All the best. Cheers! Rich.

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by LimeyRich

The really good news is that I should be able to get the correct bezel for the overdrive transmission. It is a standard Chevy part, they are out there, I have seen them before, I just need to search.

If/when you find the bezel be sure and post where you got it as I'll need one as well.

Got my cross member reinforcing plates today, 6 pieces of 1/4" mild steel plate, cut to my specs for $32.10 including tax. Saved me about two full days of labor, maybe more. The drill bits I bought today were lots more!

It's hard to believe I was once in the United Steelworkers. Seems almost like a different lifetime. LOL

All the best. Cheers! Rich.

Good drill bits are almost worth their weight in gold. Many years ago I worked at a factory that made conveyor and palletizing equipment. We were required to buy some of our own tools which at the time included drill bits. I'll never forget the day one of my coworkers was drilling a hole, the bit stuck and bent instead of breaking. He calmly took it out of the drill motor, hammered the bit straight and proceeded to finish drilling the hole

I'm sort of ashamed to say I have some bits like that in my collection right

Brad

[LimeyRich]

Taking a break from under the Airstream, overdid it a bit over the weekend. Monday was ok, but yesterday,and today, I am just whipped.
Plus it has been a little rainy and cold here.
Parts are coming in fast though! Yesterday was the ATSG 4L80e manual. Today the Dexter tag axle brakes, and the HD rebuild kit for the 4L80e.
When I find the shift indicator bezel, I will post the details
I just told all our friends not to count on seeing us until January.
All the best. Cheers! Rich.

[bkahler]

Rich,

Would this bezel work?

4-Speed Overdrive Indicator Lens

Brad

[LimeyRich]

I hope everyone had a grand Thanksgiving celebration. I just ended up taking another four day layabout, and let the rain and wet clear out.

Would this bezel work?

.

Brad it certainly looks like it would. I have one coming from Summit, it's an Ididit brand (read:expensive) universal (auto 4spd od) one, looks very similar. If I am not happy with it, the Ididit can go back, and I will try one of those! The one place i forgot to check was Speedway. LOL.

The other thing to remember is that the indent plate for these transmissions is inside, so as long as you feel the right number of notches when you move the shift lever you are ok for gears ( at least selection).


Friday and Saturday I set up my little wire welder and burnt some "chicken splatters" as well as getting some decent welds on my lower trans cross member. 1/4" mild steel is great for mods that need to be beefy, if 1/4" doesn't look beefy enough to ya, don't be shy about going heavier. Just never go lighter than 1/4" for shade tree mods. (Engineered parts built under controlled conditions by big companies like GM, can make flimsier construction look OK, but don't do it!)
Pics are below:

These are the left and right ends of the original xmember, they will be attached to the rear set of factory holes in the frame.


Notice I cut these pieces well below the side rivets.



The center or lower xmember. cut off well above the rivet holes








The ends of the lower Xmember, showing the drilled holes for the 7/16"
grade 5 bolts,and the 1/4" backing plates welded inside. You cannot see the 3x7/16" blind holes drilled through the xmember into the 1/4" plate and then fill welded shut ( top of both ends). I also beat the metal "tongues" down in place, to box the part, and welded the seams up.






Just some gratuitous plates of meat (feet) shots, with the primed xmember included.

Next will be attaching the 1/4" reinforcing to the uppers,driilling bolt holes and preliminary assembly.
(Hope I don't have to make a Mark2)
At this point I think I have clearance for the Banks headers, either way, I hope to have that all sorted by the end of the week.
All the best. Cheers! Rich.

[LimeyRich]

It showed up this afternoon and I was so pleased I ran out and installed it right away! With just a little massaging with a coarse half round file it fit nice and tightly into the original housing. The Speedway one would have been an exact replacement, but this one is here, and I like it's layout better.
Also the clevis for the emergency brake showed up too, Christmas early for me! lol.
All the best. Cheers all ! Rich

[bkahler]

Rich,

The fabrication work on your transmission mount looks great! Can't wait to see it installed. Just think positive and it will clear the Banks system just fine

When you get a chance post a picture of the shifter bezel. I'd like to see what it looks like installed.

Brad

[LimeyRich]

I took several pics.
I have minor eyesight problems with parallax error at close range, so sometimes a picture shows me what is actually there,and where!

3rd or straight drive.


Reverse


Park


2nd
Ok, not the best pics,even I can tell that I was too close, and moving the camera around to get a better shot. Gotta turn off the flash too.
Even so the new shift indicator shows up pretty well.
From a normal driving position the pointer lines up clearly with the correct gear.

The right hand xmember frame mount is temporarily assembled to the center transmission mount xmember. Unfortunately I broke the temporary spot welds on the left hand xmember frame mount, when I was test fitting this morning.
Oh well, no worries, I knew better than to try and rush it,lol. Rain is moving in now, so I just picked up tools and put the kettle on.
All the best. Rich

[LimeyRich]

It fits! It bears the weight of the 4l80e! It's UGLY!
I pronounce the test fit a qualified success. All bolts are where they should be, the mount is in place, driveshaft was aligned properly ( I dropped the driveshaft down just before quitting for the day). I did not install the Banks headers yet though.




Still to do to the 3 piece cross member:
Make adjustments as needed for clearance on the headers, I have enough metal on the center part to do quite a bit of trimming for clearance.
Make a dimple for better shift cable clearance on the top drivers side of the center part
Box in the 1/4" plate on both upper parts, bolt the plates to the uppers. Take both uppers to a local welder to have the 1/4" boxing (re-inforcing) welded by a machine with adequate amperage to get good penetration and clean, strong welds. My machine just cannot do it.
All the best. Cheers! Rich.

[bkahler]

Looking good!

It's always nice when a plan comes together. I'm anxious to see how well the overdrive feature works.

Brad

[LimeyRich]

Hi all:
Things are now going very slowwwly here. My bloody positional dizziness has been flaring up recently, which makes it very bloody unpleasant to be on my back with my bloody head tipped back for working underneath the bloody moho.
Hence a certain lack of bloody progress..
A couple of things have been accomplished though.
First, I have now positively identified the donor vehicle of my 4L80e, it was a 1996 Chevy 3500 HD,454cid,15,000.00 lb gvw, cab and box, on chassis (with 150,000.00 miles, and a thrown rod. GM Goodwrench rebuilt 4L80e at 110,000.00)( Thank You! Chicago). I guess GM doesn't like to call it a pickup with a box, (that would be too simple). Anyway this has made it a little easier to source parts for the future, and for right now the 3500 HD emergency brake cable was easier to identify.
The clevis, and threaded rod, that attaches the cable to the lever do not appear to be sold through the parts system though. (The donor vehicle was already crushed, and no junkyards close with another)) But, I was able to order a forged steel clevis from Midwest controls with the correct 3/8"x24nf thread size, and I cut the head off a 3/8" x24nf x2" socket head cap screw to use for a rod.
Then I connected the new emergency brake cable, rod, 3/8"x24nf jamb nut, and clevis to the actuating lever on the drum, and to the original 345 emergency brake handle. Surprisingly it all fits together, and works! (proviso coming).
Of course the new brake cable (NAPA) is larger in diameter than the original cable and I had to drill out the hole in the floor to 5/8' in order to thread it through. Luckily I had a 5/8' x 24" long wood auger bit, which made re-drilling the hole a snap from the driver seat. I cannot recommend taking apart and reassembling the 345 hand brake as a soothing pastime though, it is a fiddly, awkward PITA. It did go back together and work though.
OK, now the proviso! The hand brake works completely opposite from original. Now its: Handbrake ON, emergency brake OFF. Handbrake OFF, emergency brake ON. Of course I knew this was going to happen much earlier on because of the redesigned 1990s E brake system, we already discussed. Now I just need to rig a Green led as a "brake off " check light.


Clevis fork, Pin, cotter pin, 3/8"x24nf rod and jamb nut.


Cable retaining plate. Note 5/32" channel I had to cut for assy. Apparently GM didn't expect this cable to ever be replaced? Or is it still the wrong cable? Anyway the length is right and both ends fit.


Large silver barrel on left is threaded cable end. Then jamb nut. Clevis fork, and pin, etc. Sorry this last pic is fuzzy.
All the best. Rich.

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by LimeyRich

Hi all:
Things are now going very slowwwly here. My bloody positional dizziness has been flaring up recently, which makes it very bloody unpleasant to be on my back with my bloody head tipped back for working underneath the bloody moho.
Hence a certain lack of bloody progress..

Ah heck, I thought you were just getting lazy

A couple of things have been accomplished though.
First, I have now positively identified the donor vehicle of my 4L80e, it was a 1996 Chevy 3500 HD,454cid,15,000.00 lb gvw, cab and box, on chassis (with 150,000.00 miles, and a thrown rod. GM Goodwrench rebuilt 4L80e at 110,000.00)( Thank You! Chicago). I guess GM doesn't like to call it a pickup with a box, (that would be too simple). Anyway this has made it a little easier to source parts for the future, and for right now the 3500 HD emergency brake cable was easier to identify.

Sounds like you got yourself a good unit.

The clevis, and threaded rod, that attaches the cable to the lever do not appear to be sold through the parts system though. (The donor vehicle was already crushed, and no junkyards close with another)) But, I was able to order a forged steel clevis from Midwest controls with the correct 3/8"x24nf thread size, and I cut the head off a 3/8" x24nf x2" socket head cap screw to use for a rod.
Then I connected the new emergency brake cable, rod, 3/8"x24nf jamb nut, and clevis to the actuating lever on the drum, and to the original 345 emergency brake handle. Surprisingly it all fits together, and works! (proviso coming).
Of course the new brake cable (NAPA) is larger in diameter than the original cable and I had to drill out the hole in the floor to 5/8' in order to thread it through. Luckily I had a 5/8' x 24" long wood auger bit, which made re-drilling the hole a snap from the driver seat.

I'm kinda glad I'm sticking with the original Argosy parking brake which uses a pedal connected to the rear brake shoes.

I cannot recommend taking apart and reassembling the 345 hand brake as a soothing pastime though, it is a fiddly, awkward PITA. It did go back together and work though.

That was my reaction when I removed the 345 parking brake lever as I was dismantling the 345. Rube Goldberg affair if you ask me.

OK, now the proviso! The hand brake works completely opposite from original. Now its: Handbrake ON, emergency brake OFF. Handbrake OFF, emergency brake ON. Of course I knew this was going to happen much earlier on because of the redesigned 1990s E brake system, we already discussed. Now I just need to rig a Green led as a "brake off " check light.

That will certainly mystify any potential thief!

Brad

[choctawmel]

You know you'll need a new electronic speedometer or a very expensive adapter to use the original with the 4L80e. The one I got was easy to program and if you put different size tires on it's easy to reprogram. It was neat to see 10 miles on the odometer!

[LimeyRich]

Hi All. Hope everyone had a really great holiday!
Thanks Brad And Mel.
I am also feeling better physically, my dizziness is decreasing now, and hopefully migraines will be further apart for a while. I actually consider my ailments to be very minor, although temporarily unpleasant. Accepting my "new" capabilities is the most grating part, but as I was a cancer patient for 4 years, and am now a 5yrs survivor, I really have nothing to complain about.
Sometimes though, I can really be a fg bear with a sore head!
Brad ,your right , those aftermarket hand brake units look like a "Mechano" or "Lego" engineer designed them in 1920, while using a Bumblebee crossed with a Stick insect for a design template.
In reply to Choctawmel Yes I do have a new speedometer. I never liked the Teleflex instruments anyway, so I was glad to get a New Vintage 0-100 mph ( customized ) electronic speedometer. They had to make me a new template for 0-100 , as I did not want the standard 120 mph speedo, I did consider the 160 mph model for it's shock appeal, but it put the 345 cruising speed range in the wrong place. Also it would not be pc to drive in a manner to do it justice. LOL.
It has plain white numbers on black, with an "early 60's" look, very easy and uncluttered to look at, with 50mph straight up in the 12 o'clock position. (A little expensive but it suits what I want.)
With 50 mph straight up, it makes the needle at 45mph and 55mph really stand out. Those speeds and 35mph are difficult for me to read and differentiate in a quick glance on the 85 mph Teleflex unit. This in speed ranges that will quickly get you a ticket in many areas.
The New Vintage also reads multiple input signals, including standard GM, and the Optishift speed signal. When combined with the optishift it is also almost infinitely adjustable too.
In conclusion, as time and funds permit I intend to replace all the Teleflex gauges with a matching New Vintage tach, and probably SW small gauges.
All the best, Cheers! and a happy and prosperous New Year! Rich.

[Keyair]

How is it going Rich?

I have a question for you 4L80E guys....

I saw a 4L80E for sale locally, for a good price.
Looks like this... from a GMC 2500 express...


First thing that I noted is that there is no provision for the parking brake on this unit...
Is it just a different tail housing to find?