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Old 10-09-2012, 04:47 PM   #43
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Wow that E-Brake looks identical to a regular E-Brake lol.

And cutting the frame is ok on a scrap frame lol
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Old 10-09-2012, 08:52 PM   #44
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The underneath of Keyair's '84 is virtually identical to my '88.
Keyair's pictures are of the real emergency brake, pull the emergency brake handle you have emergency brake. Normal and logical ,right?
The dreaded E-Brake doesn't show up until the '90s, the E-Brake is applied by an extremely powerful spring and braking effort is helped by the shoe effect. OK sounds great right?
The problem is that the pressurized hydraulic system that releases and keeps the brake off until needed would fail unpredictably. The result would be a sudden and interesting experience at say 70mph? on a freeway. Followed by a vehicle locked in place until someone could slide under the coach who was strong enough to force back the spring. All in all a big step forward in braking technology. LOL.
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Old 10-18-2012, 10:23 AM   #45
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Parts are coming in nicely now! Last week the Transgo kit arrived, ARP header bolts came in from Summit, the shortened driveshaft was ready. New emergency brake cable arrived, and the new shift cable was shipped yesterday. I found that Nalley GMC in Brunswick, GA, has new transmission support cross members for the 4l80e in 91 thru 96 model years 14,800&15,600 GVW P30s! Ordered one, (as I cannot see any differences in the basic frame design since the eighties, sub-components look updated but not the actual frame) it will be in next week ($80.96 shipped). We will see if that helps the installation once it gets here ( fingers crossed for luck).
I will start taking pics, as I think my camera is ok.
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Old 10-18-2012, 11:31 AM   #46
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Parts are coming in nicely now! Last week the Transgo kit arrived, ARP header bolts came in from Summit, the shortened driveshaft was ready. New emergency brake cable arrived, and the new shift cable was shipped yesterday. I found that Nalley GMC in Brunswick, GA, has new transmission support cross members for the 4l80e in 91 thru 96 model years 14,800&15,600 GVW P30s! Ordered one, (as I cannot see any differences in the basic frame design since the eighties, sub-components look updated but not the actual frame) it will be in next week ($80.96 shipped). We will see if that helps the installation once it gets here ( fingers crossed for luck).
I will start taking pics, as I think my camera is ok.
I am definitely looking forward to pictures of your installation. I'm even happier to hear you found a rear frame support that might work. $80 isn't bad and I would easily spend that much money in time and materials making one myself.

How much did it cost to have the drive shaft shortened?

Brad
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Old 10-18-2012, 11:52 AM   #47
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Are you sitting down? Including a new u-joint,
$89.00 !!!!! Fleet Pride did the work.
The last time I had a driveshaft modified (1980) it ran over $100. I was expecting around $180, this was a very pleasant surprise!
The part from Nalley is new also.
The pics will probably be late next week. It will be fit together time once the support arrives. I have decided to pull the 4L80 before buttoning everything up and do an HD rebuild with the beefing up Transgo mods.
I will be waiting for my buddies to help again, as even with the transmission jack I just cannot do it by myself. :-(
After this much work, better safe than sorry
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:38 PM   #48
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Are you sitting down? Including a new u-joint,
$89.00 !!!!! Fleet Pride did the work.
The last time I had a driveshaft modified (1980) it ran over $100. I was expecting around $180, this was a very pleasant surprise!
The part from Nalley is new also.
The pics will probably be late next week. It will be fit together time once the support arrives. I have decided to pull the 4L80 before buttoning everything up and do an HD rebuild with the beefing up Transgo mods.
I will be waiting for my buddies to help again, as even with the transmission jack I just cannot do it by myself. :-(
After this much work, better safe than sorry
Heck that's not bad at all. I'm thinking about using one of the drive shafts from the 345 and have it shortened to fit. I haven't compared the u-joints between the Argosy and the 345 but I will most likely have to do something about the u-joint that connects to the differential but I figure a drive shaft shop should be able to deal with that.

I think the differential in the Argosy is a 14 bolt 10-1/2" unit but I don't know how that compares to what is in the 345. When I get home later this month I'll get the calipers out and do some measurements.

Brad
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:03 PM   #49
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I would stick with shortening the stock Argosy driveshaft myself.
For the following reasons.
Multi part driveshafts have to be balanced as an assembled unit, you are probably not taking enough material away to have to re-balance.
Your shortened driveshaft will be slightly shorter than it's present length. There is actually no advantage to a larger diameter driveshaft, unless you are making a longer shaft or adding LOTS of power.
If you change the diameter of the front shaft, you should change the rear shaft diameter too, but then the entire rotating assembly (front and rear shafts, u-joints) will need to be dynamically balanced.
If however you are doubling the torque and horsepower of the original Argosy engine, you are radically increasing the twisting torque applied to the shaft tubes, and then do by all means change up to the 345 shafts. It would be cheap insurance.
I have found driveshaft shop guys to usually be just of much of gearheads as me, they will usually give sound practical advice on just what their work will stand up to.
All the best.Cheers.
P.S. Have a pint for me, I can't have it anymore :-(
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:42 PM   #50
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Good information. I have high hopes that the Argosy is going to have more HP and higher torque than the factory 345. The cam is "COMP CAMS 11-203-3 HIGH ENERGY™, 260H GOOD TORQUE AND POWER, SMOOTH IDLE".

I'll have to measure the shafts on the 345 and then on the Argosy to see if what will fit where. The Argosy has a carrier bearing so that will have some impact on what drive shaft that I end up using.

I'm going to have to start looking around for a good drive shaft shop. Odds are I'll have to drive 45 miles to Somerset KY to find a good one.

Brad
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Old 10-20-2012, 06:59 AM   #51
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Ill throw in a piece of advice here: since your 4L80Es are already sitting on the counter, Id use the money you saved and get a shift improver kit. They generally run $100 (for a TH350 at least, not sure on the 4L80E) and come with 2 sets. One for street driving, and the other for towing/hauling. Of course youd need the tow/haul one. Iv heard nothing but good fortune from these. They drastically improve the shifting on these old trannys
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Old 10-20-2012, 09:57 AM   #52
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Ill throw in a piece of advice here: since your 4L80Es are already sitting on the counter, Id use the money you saved and get a shift improver kit. They generally run $100 (for a TH350 at least, not sure on the 4L80E) and come with 2 sets. One for street driving, and the other for towing/hauling. Of course youd need the tow/haul one. Iv heard nothing but good fortune from these. They drastically improve the shifting on these old trannys
Isn't the Transgo kit the same as a shift improver kit?
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:02 AM   #53
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It prolly is lol. Several people make them
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:18 AM   #54
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Pics at last!

I have uploaded and attached the photos I have so far.They show the Transgo kit for correcting over and under pressure, increasing the liveability of the 4L80. The shortened driveshaft. My favorite air over hydraulic jack.
The parking brake. The Optishift head unit in a temporary spot. The Optishift wiring temporarily secured. The close /interference of the transmission shift mechanism.
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Old 10-22-2012, 03:42 PM   #55
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Thanks for the pictures!

Your brake drum sure looks to be a lot smaller than the brake drum on my 4L80E and the one on our 310. The Argosy has the parking brakes at the rear axle so I don't know if it will be an issue or not as I try to install it.

Thanks again and keep the pictures coming.

Brad
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:39 PM   #56
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Yes, it's smaller.

It came out of a 1996 HD (3500?) 14,000/16,500 gvw series commercial box truck without the electric/hydraulic brake,that they put in the 90's motorhomes. However, the brake shoe is much wider than the original airstream shoe, swept area looks about the same. The big drawback from my point of view, it's a spring operated "normally on" system. So a quick learning curve in not driving off with the parking brake on.
The nice part is the trans' does have a parking pawl, so I don't have to spend the money on adding one.
New trans support should be here tomorrow P.M.
How did you make out with finding a rag joint?
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