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Old 03-16-2002, 11:59 AM   #1
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Smile Tune up and...

I pulled my plugs to check em out, and although only 15k on them the carbon motivated me to replacements. I also got the rotor and cap, but the wires seem fine, and are not very old as per the r.o.'s I have. My question= are the ceramic wires worth triple the price of Belden premiums, which NAPA sells with a lifetime warranty? The guy there says they will replace them no questions asked anytime with the receipt....
and they are 62 bucks a set.
My manifolds I cehcked closely after reading all the problems with these- they look ok, and were replaced two or so yrs ago. I may have to go with the Hedman headers, I priced them and they seem very fair, with the brass hardware and all.
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Old 03-16-2002, 01:11 PM   #2
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I don't think that the ceramics are worth triple the price, unless you have a problem, like I did:
a missing heat shield, which caused the rubber boot to melt. I probably could have bought a new shield from the dealer, but instead, I fabricated one and used the ceramic boots.
The plug fouling can be solved by you know what
:
Jacobs, or at least an excel (sp) high voltage ignition coil.
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Old 03-16-2002, 02:12 PM   #3
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You make a lot of sense, I will look into the coil, and maybe go with those NAPA wires.
While I was out messing around I checked my rear air bag valve and found no air in them. I tried to air them up to 100, never got past 50psi, then by them time I rechecked, they were at 0 again. I guess I see why the rear seems "bouncy"- any ideas on how to isolate the problem? It could be the small tank, or the lines , and of course the bags...I wondered if the compressor was coming on as I never hear it, guess the whole system could be replaced..
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Old 03-17-2002, 07:31 AM   #4
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Tune up and hoses

Yesterday must have been my least productive day ever, in my career as a grease monkey.
There is this cute little 5" long hose just in front of the thermostat housing, that runs from the block to the waterpump. Mine had visible cracks and signs of a small leak. So, I decided to change it.
There is a tight wiring harness on top of it and the fuel line runs on the side of it.
It took me hours to get that #@#$% hose in place.
I ended up putting oil on the fittings and used a blow dryer to make the 3/4" hose flexible enough to slip it into position.
Has anyone ever dealt with this hose. Is it only to be replaced along with the waterpump?
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Old 03-17-2002, 04:02 PM   #5
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that hose

Ok,
Call me stupid! That hose comes preformed to make the slight bend. And it was a lot easier to install.
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Old 03-18-2002, 07:52 AM   #6
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Its just one learning experience after another!! I realized how tight it is under the "dog house" working on the carb the other day. With the engine on checking tran fluid and such and 80 degree day here it got rather warm inside the motorhome.
I had forgotten that Dexron II has been replaced with Dexron III some 5 yrs ago ( my older car is a manual) and when I went looking for trans fluid I felt quite out of the loop.
On the subject of air bags from earlier- I am going to go ahead and put shocks on the rear, as mine are old enough to be replaced. Anyone done that themselves? Looks easy enough I don't think I can safely jack up enough to relieve weight on them, and will propbably opt for a pro-installer to be safe.
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Old 03-18-2002, 05:04 PM   #7
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shocks

Pro installers like air tools. If you have the upper mounting stud, don't let anyone use an air tool on it.(to undo, yes, but not to tighten) The lower is a bolt and a nut, so air wrench is ok.
You don't need to jack the rig up for replacing the shocks. Bilsteins are a little harder to install (more pressure) than the P30 motorhome Monroes.
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Old 07-24-2002, 09:19 PM   #8
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bypass hose

Peter the same hose blew on me and the wife the second time out as we were heading to the coast. I was just cruising along and I said to the wife, do you smell antifreeze? .Needless to say I couldnt even see where the leak was coming from with all the steam and the dog house in place.We called AAA they towed us to the only place open on a sunday for repair 186$ for the same hose and antifreeze.plus we waited 4 hours for the tow truck to show up.sound like a pleasent trip?Anyhow we stayed at the KOA at fort Stevens state park Oregon .Very nice .
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Old 07-24-2002, 10:09 PM   #9
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Larry,
$186.- is a good price for a $5.- hose and $8.- worth of Anti-freeze. Got to keep those hard working sunday mechanics in business.
I bet he went thru all of his 4 letter words trying to reach that hose. But he always wanted to work on one of those Airstreams....
Maybe that hose is the harbinger of your waterpump.
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Old 07-24-2002, 10:39 PM   #10
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wp

I think the water pump is ok. We just took one of our hottest trips over Mount Hood 7% grade for 7miles at 100 degrees and never got over 190 engine temp.We went to Lake Billy Chinook .Beautiful place.But I noticed What I thought Was an exhaust leak .When I got back Home I found it was not an exhaust but a lifter tick the drivers side of the rig .Sounds like the front cylinder.So I'm contemplating should I try some of that anti lifter stick goo or remove the valve cover.(probably do this )What do you think.
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Old 07-24-2002, 10:54 PM   #11
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yup, I like those old water temp gauges myself. But to be sure, I would add about 20 degress to the reading. I run per my gauge @ 165 - 180 degrees, which I know is not right, because my 180 degree thermostat would never open.
Did the ticking just start after that trip. Is it still there with a cold engine? You sure its not a bad plug wire?
The drivers side valve cover removal requires A/C compressor removal.
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Old 07-25-2002, 08:06 AM   #12
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Just a suggestion - old mechanics use a long metal object to put in the area of the tick, and listen through it to more localize the sound. Younger ones use a stethoscope type listener. Peter is on the right track also as plug wires can "tick" if shorting ever so slightly, and also the cold engine tick versus the warmed up one; how old is the engine oil? The 3 month/ 3000 mile change rule is a good one for regular motor oil.
I changed my generator oil to synth and it changed the sound of the gen dramatically. Also started smoother.
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Old 07-25-2002, 03:26 PM   #13
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tuneup

Just an added thought my 24ft Excella was doing ok put a tuneup on it and checked plugs later they were somewhat carboned up
not to long after that it died out on the interstate got towed
up Mt Eagle by a nissan pickup anyway the problem was the distruibtor couter balalancers were worn and crank angle sensor had gone bad I installed a rebuilt distributor and wow what
a difference in the way it starts and runs also getting better
MPGs so don't overlook that at least check it out

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Old 07-25-2002, 10:55 PM   #14
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tick

Hi everybody, The plug wires seem to be ok No sparks and I didn't get the s#*t shocked out of me when I stuck my fingers down buy them . The M.H. Just had a complete tune up before the old dude sold it.It had brand new mobil 1 Synthetic 10/30 The rig has 66000 miles on it.In the winter I started it and left it run about 20 minutes while I did some chores inside.When I came outside the airstream was smoking like it was on fire .It almost was. The high presure oil line to the cooler had blown and had pumped out maybe 4 Quarts of 5+$ per right on the exhaust manifold.Boy was I lucky It did'nt go up in flames!.So the oil or most of it was replaced.We hav'nt put much more than 1000 miles on her since.I come from a family of mechanics and our experiance with big block chevs tells us that lifter ticks are not all that uncommon. I think that maybe snice it got low on oil it might have picked up a small amount of sludge and pluged up the oil hole on a lifter.are one of the lifter adjuster nuts might have backed off . also pretty common. The cheap attempt to fix the problem would be rislone.(A good product) .And if that don't do the trick pull the covers,cheak it out and seal it back up.I can't hardly believe that there is much else major wrong at 66000 miles. P.s. My gaudges are all new Stewart warners
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