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Old 09-01-2003, 04:11 PM   #15
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i have posted that i can get a new radiator locally . not so i was thinking i would replace mine . with a little research and an eye ball or two i find i can get a new radiator but the passenger side tank will have to be reused. that is the one that has the engine oil cooler . or a recore . and im told that a recore is more expensive than the new radiator with the tank swap out. and that is about $350 . didnt get a price for the recore yet.
seems the radiator is available but not with the engine oil cooler
if i had my druthers it would be a complet new radiator. if someone has a source pls post. lol
al
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Old 09-01-2003, 05:37 PM   #16
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steve
i called those guys and they give me the not for class a motor homes. and if you go thru the computer selection it comes up a radiator for $560 oem neplacement. did the dimensions and that came up probably a three core on the thickness of 2 1/6. whats up
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Old 09-01-2003, 07:26 PM   #17
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Al,
That's a good question. I came up at $208 on their website for an 86 P30/Motorhome with a 454. (I tried your 84 and it came up $538). Amazing that you got through to someone today...I kept getting voicemail. I figured they were closed for the holiday.

I'll be sure to call tomorrow and double check the core dimensions and the number of rows. The note on the item said it would meet or exceed the OEM specifications but it sounds like you got a different story on the phone with your 310.

This is why I don't like buying things like parts online! Unless its something basic there is just something comfortable about holding up the old part to the new one on the counter at NAPA.

One thing I can't help but thinking is why not go with a straight four core radiator without the oil/trans cooler that fits (or is a little bigger) and run an aux oil/trans cooler as well. I already have an aux trans cooler and have been considering an oil cooler since I wrenched up the oil feed lines taking out my radiator (still working to find/replace these). I found a complete HD oil/trans combo stacked cooler online with all of the hoses and fittings for about $150. If you could find a good replacement radiator for $200 then it's about even. Just a thought for the engineers among us! If my repair works out this may be the route I take when I do make the replacement.

Sounds like a number of members need/want to replace their radiator in the near future. I'll keep you posted on what I find out.
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Old 09-01-2003, 07:44 PM   #18
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Exclamation try before you buy

When I was looking, a radiator place (nationwide) told me they had it in stock:
1979 P30 Motorhome
I went to get it and everything was backwards. Same size but all the hose connections were reversed and filler cap was on top, unreachable in my situation.
Made me think they made a special run for a few years.
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Old 09-01-2003, 08:07 PM   #19
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The sites I have seen lump P30's and vans together. The van (1 ton) is actually a G30 and will have a cross flow radiator. The only reason I can think is they are both forward control.
I would be pretty leary of a P30 radiator for $200. Sometimes things just get too cheap and I wonder why.

John
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Old 09-01-2003, 08:20 PM   #20
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Ya know...I think you may be right on that. After Al's post I'm beginning to wonder about the ole' bait and switch. I've already seen this on another site. "Please call to ensure a correct fit" and then it's up to $479. I can get it from NAPA for less than that.

I'm really hoping the soldering will work out tomorrow so I'll have time to properly sort out and research more sources for a radiator.

Any thoughts on moving the oil and trans out of the main core? Tell me if this is a bad idea...my software brain screams to always make sure that no more than one critical system is dependant on any other...so why is coolant, oil and trans fluid all routed to the same critical (and fragile) system? Am I missing something?
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Old 09-01-2003, 08:33 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by swebster@myrvadvanta
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Any thoughts on moving the oil and trans out of the main core? Tell me if this is a bad idea...
I would never move the trans cooling out of the radiator. I really don't think that even a heavy duty trans cooler is supposed to be stand-alone.
Would the ideal situation be one dual fluid external cooler inline with the existing ones in the radiator?
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Old 09-01-2003, 08:43 PM   #22
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Water is a better heat transfer medium than air, in the radiator it is a fairly consistent temperature. Air cooling depends on the air flow, too much can be as bad as too little. You end up needing ducts, fans, all the expensive things that can be eliminated with a 73 cent brass tank. The radiator is a centralized cooling point for the engine and trans, the power steering pump is a central pressure pump for the steering and brakes. It is cheaper when manufacturing to be as redundant as possible.

When you take it in they should be able to tell you the condition and how much a recore will be. This will give you some breathing room (hopefully) and how long you have to search and make a decision.

John
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Old 09-02-2003, 06:31 AM   #23
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fittings/ Rad.

Steve,
Have you tryed to get an adaptor fitting for the coolant lines? those "O" ring fittings are common to powersteering and A.C. fittings, seems like I saw adaptor fittings in the auto parts stores over the years, A fitting that would go into the tank( "O"ring ) style and adapt to a double flair. so All you would have to do is add a small section of line and flair the end of your exzisting
line(s.)

on the rad. issue, most shops buy there cores from the same supplier(s) so it's just a matter of who does the work. A "recore" is just as good as New, sometimes better, as they use more time and expertise than going down a factory line somewhere. A good shop will even make custom radiators, like changing the inlets/outlets around and the filler neck relocation.
oh,on the factory lines,they probably only stock one line for inventory reasons(cost) as one can be used for both, with minor bending( I'll Bet it is the longer one.) :^) Again luck!!
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Old 09-02-2003, 07:28 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by PeterH-79MH


I would never move the trans cooling out of the radiator. I really don't think that even a heavy duty trans cooler is supposed to be stand-alone.
Would the ideal situation be one dual fluid external cooler inline with the existing ones in the radiator?
I agree. The transmission needs some heat to operate correctly. The cooler in the radiator on cold start will preheat the transmission.

I had time to service my TH 400 this weekend and get my temp sender installed. Now this is on a Suburban so less vehicle weight but unloaded my tranny is running right at 180. It's VERY consistant in that temp almost like it has a thermostat the bypasses the coolers. Need to look it up in my shop manual and see if it does. I do recall seein a note of a cooler bypass in a cross section picture.

Now that's pan temp. Thats after the fluid has been run through the transmission. So the temp of the fluid being sent to the coolers is lower then the temp the engine is running at (195 thermostat). I figure the temp of the ATF by the time it hits the transmission is around 130-140. I have no problem holding onto the return line of the AUX stack plate cooler. The line into the AUX cooler is much warmer but not instant burn. You can handle it for a few seconds before it gets uncomfortable.

The late 80's 454 GM trucks(the old body) had a AUX oil cooler if your up for a little junkyarding. The Full size GM Vans also ran a seperate aux cooler if they had the towing package or HD cooling package through 95. 96 was new body and I'm not sure how those are set up.

I got lucky on my radiator I just replaced. The 88 was $170 from www.Radiators.com but 89 was $250. Then I got real lucky and a buddy of mine has a wholesale account with a Modine Distributor and got it out the door for $162 with tax.

I weighed the options and the local radiator shop wanted $130 to rod and boil my radiator. THe replacement has wider cores but less of them. The WWWWWW stuff had a little more spacing and it seemed to increase the airflow through the radiator. It did cure my overheat problem. My replacement is a Modine. It's the second Modine I have bought (not for the same vehicle) and I'm super happy with the quality.
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Old 09-02-2003, 08:18 AM   #25
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Cooler bypass

Eric you are right there is a cooler bypass valve. It is closed when the fluid is cold or there is a restriction in the cooling circuit, feeds from the convertor back to the lube circuits.

John
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Old 09-02-2003, 08:22 AM   #26
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radiator removal

wow!! am I ever impressed by the 45 minute removal
of the radiator The shop I go to said its an all day job.And they gave me an estimate of about 1200 bucks including parts.I can see its not going to be real easy,so if you know some shortcuts ..lets hear them
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Old 09-02-2003, 09:58 AM   #27
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45 minutes

Well...keep in mind that during this adventure I've removed and reinstalled it three times so far! So...I'm getting really good at it. The first time i did it it took three hours. Also, I do not have my condensor installed (removed by the PO) which would complicate things quite a bit.

I plan to post a complete removal/installation procedure with tips (read things I broke because I didn't know better) once I'm done.
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Old 09-02-2003, 10:16 AM   #28
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Re: Cooler bypass

Quote:
Originally posted by 74Argosy24MH
Eric you are right there is a cooler bypass valve. It is closed when the fluid is cold or there is a restriction in the cooling circuit, feeds from the convertor back to the lube circuits.

John
Good deal.
I have the same cooler and temp gages in my K5's with TH350's. I rebuilt the one transmission myself and I didn't recall any bypass in it other then restriction in the edge of the pump housing. They act a little different in the speed they warm up. The TH400 is rock steady at 180. Got in it hard on a long hill trying to bring the temp up and it wouldn't budge.
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