You know, I pullled the metal shield that sits between the engine and the fender last year and never re-installed (thinking cooling improvements). Could it be that the headers are heating up the fluid in the res and boiling if off there?
DOT3 brake fluid is supposed to have a boiling point of 450 degrees. I would hate to think your master cylinder has gotten hot enough to boil the fluid .
I think it would be a good idea to replace the shield, if you still have it.
Terry,
Thanks. I know I am grasping at straws - it just kills me to not know what went wrong. I replaced the MC and the front lines tonight (just finished). Waiting on the rear hoses to come in. Bought myself one of those new fangled vacuum bleeders to boot so I can replace all of the fuild a little easier.
The hoses did not show any indication of a failure, also did not see any wet spots on the front hardlines. Also did not see anything on the HB or anything else for that matter.
urbanextreme,
Yes, well actually, mine are discs in the rear and I replaced them this Spring. I will be back there again tonight replacing the rear hoses and bleeding the breaks. Is there something in particular for me to look out for back there?
Just thinking. I have had them leak from the caliper seal and lose fluid that way. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and, once saturated with moisture, can completly evaporate, so you can't quite tell a leak if you lost the fluid some time ago. If you had the calipers replaced last year, once you get the brakes functioning again, have someone press the brakes down with what ever assist your vehicle has, then pay close attention to the piston seals on the calipers and the drop of the pedal.
FYI, fluid will never boil at the master cylinder, it will only boil at the caliper piston under severe continued braking, this is what's called "brake fade". Moisture absorbed into the brake fluid, like the cap off for extended periods or open container that has been sitting on the shelf a long time, is what reduces the boiling point of brake fluid.
so how often should we change to fluid, and is it ok to not change all of it? I mean pull a lot out thru the master rather than bleed it out at the wheel cylinders...
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Rallys twice a year..Lots of fun, food, and aluminum.
Alan,
I've read that you should change it every two years. Anyone else heard or know the change interval? That's part of the reason why I bought the super dooper vacuum brake bleeder kit. Figured it would make this rather un-enjoyable process a little more tolerable.
Alan,
I've read that you should change it every two years. Anyone else heard or know the change interval? That's part of the reason why I bought the super dooper vacuum brake bleeder kit. Figured it would make this rather un-enjoyable process a little more tolerable.
24 months, 30,000 miles, or when it becomes discolored. Brake fluid is alcohol based, and tends to absorb moisture. This is a problem for vehicles driven only occasionally (like motor homes), or vehicles stored in humid climates (like the Southeast US).
Bled the rears tonight. Wow....UUUGGGLLLLYYYY fluid. I like the vacuum pump. Pulled about two big cans of new fuild through the system. Got into the third can on the last brake.
Also pulled the calipers on all four corners to check pads. Found the inner front passenger pad detached from the backing. Also notice this rotor was dragging heavily on the brake. I could still turn it by hand, but could it be the problem?
Off to AutoZone to get new pads. Funny...this all started with "I better top off the brake fluid".
Just to close this out. We went on a quick camping trip this weekend and everything worked great. In fact I also noticed my left front wheel bearing was a little loose when I replaced the pads.
Brakes worked great, and a number of smaller rattles from the front end are now gone. Fluid level was exactly where I left it after 180 miles round trip.
Thanks, as always, to everyone for their opinions, experience and advice. Once again the forum saves.
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