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ALANSD · 06-25-2003, 07:15 AM

I finally got the correct Bilstein shocks for my 1982 ( B-1173 model). I see where the later model shock is also used as the steering stabilizer. Anyone using a Bilstein for this? Model is be3-2645 . Just curious as to what improvement it might have made.

59toaster · 06-25-2003, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ALANSD
I finally got the correct Bilstein shocks for my 1982 ( B-1173 model). I see where the later model shock is also used as the steering stabilizer. Anyone using a Bilstein for this? Model is be3-2645 . Just curious as to what improvement it might have made.

While a Steering stabalizer does the same thing as a shock it is designed different. Most shocks will give you problems if you lay it on it's side and attempt to use it.

ALANSD · 06-25-2003, 02:54 PM

This model number is listed as shock replacement for 1985+
P30 chassis , and as steering stabilizer for all years. Found it listed for sale as both.

59toaster · 06-25-2003, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ALANSD
This model number is listed as shock replacement for 1985+
P30 chassis , and as steering stabilizer for all years. Found it listed for sale as both.

Well if it lists as a stabilizer then it should be fine.

On a side note:
I threw a set of Bilstein's on my burb. Worth all $220 bucks. I'm very impressed with them. Totaly changed the handling of the truck for the better.

wb13798 · 06-25-2003, 10:00 PM

alan
i have a bilsten steering stabalizer on the silver weenie and i would doubt it would be used as a shock adsorber. but who knows. "it works"i think it cost about $90 couple years ago. i have a complete set of bilsten shocks also, the rears were a bear to mount. my ride has improved some , tire tread wear patterns have changed. took the coach to a tire dealer and ask what is los with the funny wear pattern. the reply was "who knows". bad shocks do funny things and they are not to much trouble to check. lol
al

wb13798 · 06-25-2003, 10:02 PM

some gm trucks and suburbans come with bilsteins. hope you didnt trash a set ,lol
al

wb13798 · 06-25-2003, 10:09 PM

alan
to check the steering stabilizer
disconnect one end and see if you have resistence compressing and extending it will extend with out help. same as a shock. my old stabalized was soft . wasnt doing much for the coach.lol
al

wb13798 · 06-26-2003, 09:05 AM

found invoice for the shocks and stabilizer. ordered from camping world and they dream up a different part no . camping world part no for the steering damper is 17417 and cost $ 99.99
i crawled under the coach and i dont think this would work as a shock . cylinder is to small and the length is a bit on the short side. and the bilsten tag was almost gone h8 or ho was the last two digits. compare what you have and if it mounts up try it lol
al

ALANSD · 06-27-2003, 06:39 AM

on the proamuto suspension web site I found the B46-1173 Bilstein listed as shock and steering damper for P30 chassis, although for older than 1985 the shocks may be BE3- 2645. Mine uses the shorter fatter model for shock and the skinnier one for damper. I am going to reshock as soon as the weather cools a bit, which is due tommorow...low 80's instead of low 90's....

Just FYI

http://www.proamauto.com/page15bda6.HTM

wb13798 · 06-27-2003, 08:21 AM

a seller on ebay is selling shocks and sterring stabalizers for $27 check this link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2420617779
that looks like the stabilizer i have on the silver weenie.
al

ALANSD · 06-27-2003, 11:59 AM

thats who I got my stuff from. Great deals, just sometimes takes him awhile to get the correct model to you.He is straight up though.

problem #1-- pulled off the front of my steering damper- its the original Delco and is real mushy. The back end with the thick bolt goes thru the steering attached arm, and I have only been able to get it out about 1/2". Spryed a liberal dose of silicone rust eliminator and hope it will come out all the way...tried a hammer, so far no movement.

Problem #2 is the Bilstein damper is soooo tight I can't get it to move down to the size needed to attach it..I sat on it it doesn't budge..some difference from the old Delco. I remember someone giving a method for pushing these in, but haven't yet found it. Any suggestions??

74Argosy24MH · 06-27-2003, 12:47 PM

Be careful with the hammer. You can bend it or splay the end a little and it won't go through the hole. Heat works the best on suspensions, if you don't have a torch try turning the bolt as you spray it, work the solvent in deeper.

If you can't compress the shock turn the steering until you can line the holes up that way.

John

ALANSD · 06-27-2003, 12:58 PM

thanks, I will try that. The new damper is about 7-8" too long as it is.

87MH · 06-27-2003, 02:41 PM

Alan :

When I put my shocks and steering stabilizer on a couple of months ago I had some success with compressing the piston, and holding it in place with a small nylon rope with a half-hitch.

By slowly releasing the half-hitch I was able to line up the holes as necessary.

I had trouble getting the old stabilizer to release from the bellcrank, I had to run through a heat/cool cycle twice, even with a suspension fork. Of course, I did not want to get too rough with it due to the cost of the bellcrank assembly.

Be sure to coat the mating surfaces with anti-sieze to facilitate later removal -- you never know.

Dennis

ALANSD · 06-28-2003, 08:08 PM

thanks for those tips. I can't seem to compress the stabilizer at all, the thing is really tight. The Bilstein compared to the old Delco is night and day....
As to the torch,etc...I will have to get one tommorow. Any suggestions on this process. I have not used a torch since I had a GTO in 1969 and had to cut off the exhaust parts.....
also the steering is right near the LP tank...its off of course, but any considerations there??
Hope to tackle all this again if the weather permits
tommorow.

74Argosy24MH · 06-28-2003, 08:33 PM

I've never understood this but if they are shipped extended they are almost locked in that position. Can you take a bar, put it against something about the same height as the shock (maybe the bottom of the bumper) and use it as a lever to compress the shock? Usually they will move after that, if not wire it in the closed position.

No leaks on the propane tank and you should have no problem, aim the flame away. You will need at least a mapp torch, propane doesn't get hot enough; by the time the bolt is hot enough to come out half the front suspension will be smoking. If you put the nut back on the bolt about flush with the end you will be able to hammer on it without causing too much damage. Move the torch around to heat the whole area as evenly as possible, it doesn't have to glow just break the bond between the two. An air chisel also works great if you have one.

John

59toaster · 06-28-2003, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ALANSD
thats who I got my stuff from. Great deals, just sometimes takes him awhile to get the correct model to you.He is straight up though.

problem #1-- pulled off the front of my steering damper- its the original Delco and is real mushy. The back end with the thick bolt goes thru the steering attached arm, and I have only been able to get it out about 1/2". Spryed a liberal dose of silicone rust eliminator and hope it will come out all the way...tried a hammer, so far no movement.

Problem #2 is the Bilstein damper is soooo tight I can't get it to move down to the size needed to attach it..I sat on it it doesn't budge..some difference from the old Delco. I remember someone giving a method for pushing these in, but haven't yet found it. Any suggestions??

I'm a little confused with the problem. Is the bolt not coming out with the nut off? The bolt may have rusted to the sleeve. That's a real booger when that happens. I don't have a torch but I do have a sawzall. I'll check in durring the day a few times. I have a fun day of shoveling multch. If your still having problems I could probably lend you a hand.

Do you have a Air compressor by Chance? I have a Air Chissle with a blunt tip that lets you use it like a hammer. I also have cut off wheels.

Try this. Hit Pep Boys or Autozone and get "PB Blaster" that's about the best penetrating oil around. A good trick with this is to heat the parts with a propane torch then shoot the PB Blaster on it. The heat will draw the BP in. PB blaster just about disolves rust and if you can get it down in the sleeve it will probably break it free. I have had good luck with that trick. I would plan to replace that bolt.

ALANSD · 06-28-2003, 08:56 PM

yeah the nut came off after a short soaking with penetratin lube and a breaker bar. The front nuts go throught a panel behind the bumper, they came off no problem. Now the old stabilizer is hanging there with the bolt through the housing of the steering assembly. I will check HD for a torch to use, and my neighbor who has a compressor. I might try to screw on the nut and beat on it, but I probably need a sledge. My hammer doesn't have the weight.
I have soaked the thing with lube tonight and hope it will crack tommorow.
As for the new one, it would need a big vise or spring compressor or something to move it. I tried to use my floor jack and put it somewhere but it was too long to stick anywhere under the frame of the airstream. After I get the old one off I will deal with that. Then its on to the shocks!!

87MH · 06-28-2003, 09:13 PM

Alans:

If you have to make a trip to the parts depot anyway.....
See if you can rent a really good pully or sheave puller.

Most of the good ones come with several size hubs, attack the taper fit from the bottom and push the threaded portion up.

Besides heat, mine took lots of tapping with a small hammer (don't damage the bellcrank), and several soakings with penetrating oil.

Tap, tap, tap, soak. soak, soak......take your time and it will come........

Hopefully with no colateral damage.

Same thing with the shocks....if I recall I had some difficulty removing the top inside nut (don't know if yours are assembled the same way or not), the originals of mine had an "adapter" to utilize a double hole shock, hopefully your new shocks will have a threaded pin at ninety degrees and permanently attached to the top shock mount.

Probably the most difficult shock for me was the driver's side rear, the air leveling valve is mounted between the main and tag axel on the outside of the frame, and had to be removed for R/R of the shock.

Let us know how it goes!

Dennis