I finally got the correct Bilstein shocks for my 1982 ( B-1173 model). I see where the later model shock is also used as the steering stabilizer. Anyone using a Bilstein for this? Model is be3-2645 . Just curious as to what improvement it might have made.
Originally posted by ALANSD I finally got the correct Bilstein shocks for my 1982 ( B-1173 model). I see where the later model shock is also used as the steering stabilizer. Anyone using a Bilstein for this? Model is be3-2645 . Just curious as to what improvement it might have made.
While a Steering stabalizer does the same thing as a shock it is designed different. Most shocks will give you problems if you lay it on it's side and attempt to use it.
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1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
Originally posted by ALANSD This model number is listed as shock replacement for 1985+
P30 chassis , and as steering stabilizer for all years. Found it listed for sale as both.
Well if it lists as a stabilizer then it should be fine.
On a side note:
I threw a set of Bilstein's on my burb. Worth all $220 bucks. I'm very impressed with them. Totaly changed the handling of the truck for the better.
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1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
alan
i have a bilsten steering stabalizer on the silver weenie and i would doubt it would be used as a shock adsorber. but who knows. "it works"i think it cost about $90 couple years ago. i have a complete set of bilsten shocks also, the rears were a bear to mount. my ride has improved some , tire tread wear patterns have changed. took the coach to a tire dealer and ask what is los with the funny wear pattern. the reply was "who knows". bad shocks do funny things and they are not to much trouble to check. lol
al
alan
to check the steering stabilizer
disconnect one end and see if you have resistence compressing and extending it will extend with out help. same as a shock. my old stabalized was soft . wasnt doing much for the coach.lol
al
found invoice for the shocks and stabilizer. ordered from camping world and they dream up a different part no . camping world part no for the steering damper is 17417 and cost $ 99.99
i crawled under the coach and i dont think this would work as a shock . cylinder is to small and the length is a bit on the short side. and the bilsten tag was almost gone h8 or ho was the last two digits. compare what you have and if it mounts up try it lol
al
on the proamuto suspension web site I found the B46-1173 Bilstein listed as shock and steering damper for P30 chassis, although for older than 1985 the shocks may be BE3- 2645. Mine uses the shorter fatter model for shock and the skinnier one for damper. I am going to reshock as soon as the weather cools a bit, which is due tommorow...low 80's instead of low 90's....
thats who I got my stuff from. Great deals, just sometimes takes him awhile to get the correct model to you.He is straight up though.
problem #1-- pulled off the front of my steering damper- its the original Delco and is real mushy. The back end with the thick bolt goes thru the steering attached arm, and I have only been able to get it out about 1/2". Spryed a liberal dose of silicone rust eliminator and hope it will come out all the way...tried a hammer, so far no movement.
Problem #2 is the Bilstein damper is soooo tight I can't get it to move down to the size needed to attach it..I sat on it it doesn't budge..some difference from the old Delco. I remember someone giving a method for pushing these in, but haven't yet found it. Any suggestions??
Be careful with the hammer. You can bend it or splay the end a little and it won't go through the hole. Heat works the best on suspensions, if you don't have a torch try turning the bolt as you spray it, work the solvent in deeper.
If you can't compress the shock turn the steering until you can line the holes up that way.
When I put my shocks and steering stabilizer on a couple of months ago I had some success with compressing the piston, and holding it in place with a small nylon rope with a half-hitch.
By slowly releasing the half-hitch I was able to line up the holes as necessary.
I had trouble getting the old stabilizer to release from the bellcrank, I had to run through a heat/cool cycle twice, even with a suspension fork. Of course, I did not want to get too rough with it due to the cost of the bellcrank assembly.
Be sure to coat the mating surfaces with anti-sieze to facilitate later removal -- you never know.
Dennis
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Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
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