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Old 06-28-2003, 09:08 PM   #15
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thanks for those tips. I can't seem to compress the stabilizer at all, the thing is really tight. The Bilstein compared to the old Delco is night and day....
As to the torch,etc...I will have to get one tommorow. Any suggestions on this process. I have not used a torch since I had a GTO in 1969 and had to cut off the exhaust parts.....
also the steering is right near the LP tank...its off of course, but any considerations there??
Hope to tackle all this again if the weather permits
tommorow.
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Old 06-28-2003, 09:33 PM   #16
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I've never understood this but if they are shipped extended they are almost locked in that position. Can you take a bar, put it against something about the same height as the shock (maybe the bottom of the bumper) and use it as a lever to compress the shock? Usually they will move after that, if not wire it in the closed position.

No leaks on the propane tank and you should have no problem, aim the flame away. You will need at least a mapp torch, propane doesn't get hot enough; by the time the bolt is hot enough to come out half the front suspension will be smoking. If you put the nut back on the bolt about flush with the end you will be able to hammer on it without causing too much damage. Move the torch around to heat the whole area as evenly as possible, it doesn't have to glow just break the bond between the two. An air chisel also works great if you have one.

John
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Old 06-28-2003, 09:37 PM   #17
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Re: damper is almost off

Quote:
Originally posted by ALANSD
thats who I got my stuff from. Great deals, just sometimes takes him awhile to get the correct model to you.He is straight up though.


problem #1-- pulled off the front of my steering damper- its the original Delco and is real mushy. The back end with the thick bolt goes thru the steering attached arm, and I have only been able to get it out about 1/2". Spryed a liberal dose of silicone rust eliminator and hope it will come out all the way...tried a hammer, so far no movement.

Problem #2 is the Bilstein damper is soooo tight I can't get it to move down to the size needed to attach it..I sat on it it doesn't budge..some difference from the old Delco. I remember someone giving a method for pushing these in, but haven't yet found it. Any suggestions??
I'm a little confused with the problem. Is the bolt not coming out with the nut off? The bolt may have rusted to the sleeve. That's a real booger when that happens. I don't have a torch but I do have a sawzall. I'll check in durring the day a few times. I have a fun day of shoveling multch. If your still having problems I could probably lend you a hand.

Do you have a Air compressor by Chance? I have a Air Chissle with a blunt tip that lets you use it like a hammer. I also have cut off wheels.

Try this. Hit Pep Boys or Autozone and get "PB Blaster" that's about the best penetrating oil around. A good trick with this is to heat the parts with a propane torch then shoot the PB Blaster on it. The heat will draw the BP in. PB blaster just about disolves rust and if you can get it down in the sleeve it will probably break it free. I have had good luck with that trick. I would plan to replace that bolt.
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Old 06-28-2003, 09:56 PM   #18
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yeah the nut came off after a short soaking with penetratin lube and a breaker bar. The front nuts go throught a panel behind the bumper, they came off no problem. Now the old stabilizer is hanging there with the bolt through the housing of the steering assembly. I will check HD for a torch to use, and my neighbor who has a compressor. I might try to screw on the nut and beat on it, but I probably need a sledge. My hammer doesn't have the weight.
I have soaked the thing with lube tonight and hope it will crack tommorow.
As for the new one, it would need a big vise or spring compressor or something to move it. I tried to use my floor jack and put it somewhere but it was too long to stick anywhere under the frame of the airstream. After I get the old one off I will deal with that. Then its on to the shocks!!
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Old 06-28-2003, 10:13 PM   #19
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Removing taper from bellcrank

Alans:

If you have to make a trip to the parts depot anyway.....
See if you can rent a really good pully or sheave puller.

Most of the good ones come with several size hubs, attack the taper fit from the bottom and push the threaded portion up.

Besides heat, mine took lots of tapping with a small hammer (don't damage the bellcrank), and several soakings with penetrating oil.


Tap, tap, tap, soak. soak, soak......take your time and it will come........


Hopefully with no colateral damage.

Same thing with the shocks....if I recall I had some difficulty removing the top inside nut (don't know if yours are assembled the same way or not), the originals of mine had an "adapter" to utilize a double hole shock, hopefully your new shocks will have a threaded pin at ninety degrees and permanently attached to the top shock mount.

Probably the most difficult shock for me was the driver's side rear, the air leveling valve is mounted between the main and tag axel on the outside of the frame, and had to be removed for R/R of the shock.


Let us know how it goes!

Dennis
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Old 06-28-2003, 10:40 PM   #20
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Thanks for the neibaby reference, he seems to be a "unique" guy with some great deals and is getting better at the eBay thing....jem
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Old 06-28-2003, 11:03 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by ALANSD
yeah the nut came off after a short soaking with penetratin lube and a breaker bar. The front nuts go throught a panel behind the bumper, they came off no problem. Now the old stabilizer is hanging there with the bolt through the housing of the steering assembly. I will check HD for a torch to use, and my neighbor who has a compressor. I might try to screw on the nut and beat on it, but I probably need a sledge. My hammer doesn't have the weight.
I have soaked the thing with lube tonight and hope it will crack tommorow.
As for the new one, it would need a big vise or spring compressor or something to move it. I tried to use my floor jack and put it somewhere but it was too long to stick anywhere under the frame of the airstream. After I get the old one off I will deal with that. Then its on to the shocks!!
Ohhhh it's the taper stuck in the drag link? Ohhh that can be a booger!

Did the new stabalizer come with that part?

If there is room I have a ball joint press that might do the trick. We will have the cut the back side off with the Sawzall so the joint press can go on it if it comes to it. Will need at least 12 inches of clearence on the nut side to get the ball joint press in there.

Here is a trick with tapers like tie rod ends and what I think your dealing with. If you can exert some pressure in the direction the taper needs to go to be removed you can pop them out pretty easy.

With pressure on it you hit the side of the part with the taper seat. The shock that will be transitted through the metal will cause it to pop loose. Using that trick I have never had a ball joint or tierod take me more then 10 minutes to get loose.
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Old 06-29-2003, 07:29 AM   #22
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Alan,
Listen to these guys and don't beat on the nut, as tempting as it may be. You can damage the drag link.
I used a good bearing puller and a few sharp blows on the draglink. Once it falls out you wonder why it seemed so hard.
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Old 06-29-2003, 08:11 AM   #23
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for the panel of experts- here is a shot of the problem piece, and the rplacement to follow just to keep me on the right page here. I will try to exert some pressure on the bottom of the taper and see if it will shake loose with a hit or two, and then go the heat route or gear puller if I can get my hands on one.
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Old 06-29-2003, 08:14 AM   #24
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new part
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Old 06-29-2003, 08:28 AM   #25
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Go to Autozone get a pickle fork, $8 or $10. It will pop right out. If you have an old trash big screwdriver and can fit it between the nut and arm it also might work.

John
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Old 06-29-2003, 08:34 AM   #26
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gonna run over to Advance auto and see what they've got
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Old 06-29-2003, 08:43 AM   #27
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There are different widths, make sure you get one wide enough to fit across the nut.

John
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Old 06-29-2003, 09:25 AM   #28
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when all else fails....

alan,

if none of the above work, try this:

cut the narrow threaded end off flush, center punch it, then drill upwards to the wide end. ream it out until you have about a 1/4 to 3/8" hole most of the way through it.

take a drift punch that fits loose in the hole you just drilled and tap it out.

by removing most of the metal inside the taper by drilling, you will have weakened it enough to collapse and come out.

this is the way i had to go with my p.o.s. jeep wrangler (actually a dodge dart with a transfercase).

good luck!

john
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