Starting Battery

[ralley]

I discovered yesterday that my new (this year) starting battery is now flat. There is obviously a slow drain somewhere. It was weak the last itme I started and drove the Zeppelin--I had to use the house battries to start it two weeks ago. I drove about 20 miles, not enough to fully charge the battery. Are there any known issues in the cranking, electric step, or lighting systems, or the alternator and battery isolator, that I should look for as a shortcut to sorting this out?

[scottanlily]

Hey ralley
this kinda is a way around ,if you will ,but think about putting on an rv knife switch,which you can just pull the lever up and disconnect the battery if the coach sits ,although finding the drain is a good idea,but so many electrical
components on these MH s cause grief.I would run the coach and put a volt meter on your starting battery to confirm alt is charging .you will see about 13.5 volts due to 1 volt being used to operate the isolater.I would get rid of the isolater and get a (cole hersey) solenoid continuouse duty to replace the
isolater ,does not use up voltage and performs same function exactly ,and
east to hook up ,thay are made for this type of application .You really need 14,50 getting to the batteries to retain a good state of charge .If you put a test light between the pos cable on starting battery with the cable unhooked
and the pos post ,it will light up if a drain exists if the drain is big.You can do the same thing with a voltmeter on the milliamp scale to detect small drains
as well .If the drain is present either way ,you can remove fuses one at a time to see if the drain is lost .Remember dont crank the key in any of these tests ,key off .

Scott