Start Assist

[ralley]

LOVELY!!!!!
However:
"2: The symptoms seem to have started after a lengthy cranking on the starter when an air lock happened in the pipework or fuel evaporated in the feed pipe or in the carburetor, after a rest stop on a very hot (for us 35 degrees C) day." (quote)

When you run out of things to do, check your fuel pump and fuel lines, including the fuel filters where fitted! 35 degrees C is hot anywhere, but......it should not have happened. A strong fuel pump pushing fuel through good fuel lines will not allow evaporation. It is supposed to be a closed system--so there is no where for the fuel to go except into the carburator if all is working properly.

No rest for the wicked?

Best,

Rob

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, Chuck. I have a few more things for you to think about; Starter and assist solenoids [basically the same thing] can and will stick in the on position usually when overheated. This can happen more when you have weak or bad batteries that won't hold a good charge. Weak batteries, under heavy load such as starting an engine, create higher amperage. This is too much for the solenoids to take for very long. Replace the known bad batteries and the overheated / sticking solenoids.
Next, the fuse is doing it's intended job by blowing from overloaded circuits. I did not see what the size fuse was originally in that circuit, [maybe 20 amp] But never go to a higher amp fuse. Basically, if you have a 20 amp circuit, you have a 20 amp fuse and 20 amp wireing. I personally have repaired many vehicles who's wire looms have melted and or burned up because the fuse was upped or bypassed. If the fuse is blown, a larger [higher amp] fuse will not fix the problem; And in a lot of cases, will make problems a lot worse.

Bob

[Chuckles]

Rob I take your point, however I was not thinking too clearly at the time - panic set in....

The saga at the rest stop started (or not as the case may be), when initially the engine started OK, but then, moved about 15 feet out into the way of oncoming traffic then stopped. I thought, mistakenly, that blipping the throttle I had flooded the carb. All this so far on the mechanical pump.

Thinking the carb to be flooded I floored the throttle - as you do - and kept cranking. THEN I THOUGHT! .... Perhaps......

Soooo...with the aid of an override switch that brings in an electric fuel pump .... need I say more.

Of course THINKING AGAIN it is along way for a mechanical lift pump on the engine to pull the fuel some 25 feet away. So now the electric pump is put to good use ..more often!

Bob, Yes I agree increasing fuse blowing amperage is not good practice, and yes I was silly to that, but at the time desperation and the lack of 20 amp fuses forced the issue a bit. It also made me realise this was not going to go away - silly me thinking that it may be a bit of damp or whatever, but One does tend to 'grasp at straws' in desperation.

Perhaps I should stop thinking! ............. Wrong! Think more - act later!

And before any one notices ..... the new battery is on order! I say order because the side connection type are hard to find here.

[Chuckles]

Originally Posted by ralley

LOVELY!!!!!
When you run out of things to do, check your fuel pump and fuel lines, including the fuel filters where fitted! 35 degrees C is hot anywhere, but......it should not have happened. A strong fuel pump pushing fuel through good fuel lines will not allow evaporation. It is supposed to be a closed system--so there is no where for the fuel to go except into the carburetor if all is working properly.
No rest for the wicked?

Rob, I think you may have opened a can of worms on the fuel bit.

I am sometimes aware of the smell of petrol, although not quite so much now the weather is cooler. It is apparent more the drivers side than the passenger, according to 'er in doors - The Boss - Seat Cover - Yes... OK Mary MY wife!

It is only noticeable when altering the throttle movements (in traffic, up hills, or overtaking). There are no signs of fuel leakage or flooding/overflows at the engine/carburetor end.

I think (Scrub that; no thinking!) it may be to do with tank breathing. The fuel filler is way back at the rear so it cant be that, but I was informed that on some coaches the tank vent goes up over the wheel arch some where, and travels up to the front terminating in a canister (Carbon activated?) This I have yet to find.

I do intend to replace all the flexible fuel lines from the rear in Copper or steel, when I do the LPG conversion on the engine, as I am sure if it is rubber based the hose must be aged by now, but as mentioned there no signs of leaking.