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Old 08-04-2004, 12:22 PM   #15
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Rear Coach AC

Quote:
Originally Posted by 89_370LE
......the main/rear A/C had been running pretty good, until the second day when it started fine for the first cycle but didn't want to kick the compressor the second cycle—just kinda hummed. So I turned it off and tried it again, just hummed that time so I turned it off and used the front one instead. Was told it is probably a bad start capacitor; is that something I can competently replace myself? The guy at RVcomfort made it sound fairly easy.
The first thing you need to buy for the interior of the coach is an AC voltmeter....Low voltage quickly kills the (older) AC units - turn the AC off if the voltage gets below 110 volts.

See this thread......


http://www.airforums.com/forum...ighlight=front


The same thing happened to my Front Coach AC....rather than spend any bucks attempting to repair an almost 20 year old unit, I replaced the old Coleman 12,500 BTU with a 15,000 BTU unit......glad I did.
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Old 08-04-2004, 12:35 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 89_370LE

With regard to the generator, is there a low fuel cut-off at the tank? It seems that it doesne want to run (starts for a moment) when the Low Fuel indicator comes on; however, I observed that it has a similar problem when the gas tank is 3/4 full, in that instance I've had it run for 10 or 15 minutes at a time just fine before shutting it off but a couple days ago when I started it it ran for about 3 minutes and quit and wouldn't restart more than just a brief wrap when holding the chock lever to the right? It had a tune-up (so I was told) and on occasion had run fine, it seems like a fuel delivery problem but there is no way to tell if the fuel pump is running because of the noise the starter motor is making. Any ideas; take it in to the Onan guy?
Alan:

Check out this thread:

http://www.airforums.com/forum...eter#post65338

Also, do a search on "Generator"

The fuel pickup on the generator should be somewhere between the 1/4 and 1/3 (from empty) level in the main fuel tank. This is to prevent the generator from running the tank dry.

How many hours on the Generator? I had serious needle wear in the carb, ended up replacing the carburetor (about $150 for the complete unit).
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Old 08-04-2004, 01:34 PM   #17
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Not much to add to Dennis' comments...but the fuel smell, boggin down from the line, hard start and backfires all point to a loose carb or a vacum leak in the carb body. I had all of those symptoms and cured them with a carb rebuild and a new base plate gasket.
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Old 08-04-2004, 04:10 PM   #18
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My 454 Fuel injected Suburban with the TH400 is nearly identical drive train as the P30 Airstreams. It's weights over 8,000lb lighter then a 345. BEST MPG I ever managed was 11.5. It's usualy loafing around 10.5 hwy. If your getting 8 in a vehicle that weighes an aditional 8,000lb and worse airodynamics to boot....your doing fine.

As for cooling (and I hope I don't repeat to much. I sort of skimmed though others posts and didn't notice what I am about to comment on.

Distilled water is pure water with very little minerals and contaimnates. That's why it is advised to use it. Minerals and contaiminats will cause corrosion in the cooling systems.

Antifreeze does three things:
1. it lowers the freezing point of the coolant.
2. it raises boiling point of the coolant
3. it carries chemicals to help prevent corrosion in the cooling system and helps lubricate the water pump

What it doesn't do it help at all with cooling AT ALL.

Yep you read that right. The water does the engine cooling. The Antifreeze people like perpetuating 50/50 to A. make more money. B. Cover their ass.

If you adjust your watter to ant freeze ration you can pick up a little cooling potential. I run my burb at 60% water 40% antifreeze. If you look at the side of the bottle a 60/40 mix is rated to like 20 below. Plenty coverd me here in Georgia. It gets that cold here then hell froze over.

I also run CRC Tow cool. Big motors have big thermal mass and take a lot of cooling capacity to keep them in line. The Tow cool helps with that thermal exchange.

Make sure you keep the cooling system service. The chemicals in Antifreeze are only good for 2 years before they need to be replaced. Less if you use tap water and it might be as short as 2week depending on the water you dumped in there.

Hope that helps. Welcome to the Forums!
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Old 08-04-2004, 07:05 PM   #19
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I've used Tow Kool as well and it lowered my operating temps about 20 degrees at speed. I should say it stayed at 180 from idle to 65. Climbing hills saw 195...hills on hot days would hit 205.
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Old 08-04-2004, 07:09 PM   #20
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I re-read your post and got to thinking about the city water fill issue. Yours is newer and on a different chassis but here goes. On the 345 the city water hookup is located on a reel in the aft driver's side compartment. It bypasses the fresh water holding tank and instead pressurizes the plumbing system directly from the city water supply.

The fresh water tank itself is filled from the opposite side from a covered (and locked) potable water fill located about a foot below the window (which places is along side and slightly higher than the top of the tank).

Perhaps your issues with water in the shower and water in the grey water tank are actually becuase something is either left on (like a faucet or shower) which of course drain into the grey water tank or a leak in something.

Now if you have back flush built in it should not be filled from the fresh water hose...rather a completely different system (and be sure to use a different hose too!)
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Old 08-04-2004, 07:42 PM   #21
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Sorry, about the brain dump and making you wade through a lot of divergent items; I don't often get time to get out here and communicate, so when I do...that's what happens. I'll keep them short as I can.

The generator only has 157 hours on it. I'm taking it in to the Onan Service center tomorrow for a check-up and into a Ford dealer Friday, the Svc Mgr has been there 20+ years and at least knows carbs. He can't accomodate anything larger than a cube van but said he would be glad to take a ride, observe the motor and make pertinent suggestions. I'll have him check the A/C also and hope he points me to good shade tree mechanic. Does this thing have a cat converter?

Gee whiz; I thought I was the Lone Ranger on some of this stuff. When I drain the radiator again this Fall I am definitely going the distilled water/CRC/antifreeze route. I read the label on one of those cans and was amazed at the difference between H2O/CRC and the 50/50 mix; whoda thunk.

The compressor (Gast) is behind the front bumper. It starts the moment the switch goes to the power position both ways, I may have to have my wife stand in front to tell me if it stops when the starter motor engages.

The whole carb thing is troubling. Do I replace it with the same exact thing or an Edelbrock or Carter or what? Will they have all the connections the smog stuff plugs into? You mentioned a mechanical spark advance function for the emissions...

Next post I'll share this wonderful sucking sound that appeared out of no where.

Thanks again.
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Old 08-04-2004, 09:39 PM   #22
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That sucking sound is dollars disappearing

Quote:
Originally Posted by 89_370LE
.......Next post I'll share this wonderful sucking sound that appeared out of no where.........
Alan:

We're all one up on you on that one.....that sucking sound is probably the sound of cubic dollars disappearing into an aluminum abyss..... .

Most of us have gone through the same thing - a bunch of straight up maintenance items that should have been -- but for some reason reason were not -- taken care of way before they become problems.

Don't worry, the list of "have to do" things will quickly diminish......we all have our own horror stories about "new" older ownership.

Count yourself lucky -- at least three Forum members blew an engine on the ferry trip home!

Congratulations on your first rivet!
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Old 08-05-2004, 07:21 AM   #23
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Alan,
Dennis is right. Ownership of a Classic MH is the journey. You'll figure all of this stuff out in time. I was clueless when I bought mine a year ago but with the help of this forum's members and the reaquantance of some very dusty mechanical skills I've figured out most of my major problems with time and patience.

Back to the carb- Not sure what came on the 460. Depending on the carb that is there you could rebuild, replace or upgrade. This has much to do with your budget and goals for this MH. I looked at an upgrade when mine was acting up but ended up doing a bench rebuild myself with a $30 rebuild kit, 2 cans of Gumout carburator cleaner and a good book on the subject from Amazon - really they publish books about this stuff.

I'm glad I did because returning the carb to "stock" performance and operation improved my performance and gave me everything I expected without having to fit a new carb onto an old motor and deal with linkages, EGR stuff, vacuum ports, etc.

If you are looking for more power however then the carb/intake/cam/exhaust is all up fro discussion. My theory is not to try and "hot rod" the motorhome. While I've certinly upgraded and improved some components (exhaust for example) my goal is simply to return the mechanicals to stock and make them functional and reliable.

PS - You need to make a friend who is also a Ford mechanic.
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Old 08-07-2004, 03:47 PM   #24
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I do the distilled water CRC combo. Its been great fir keeping the op temp down. I carry a bottle or two of distilled water I buy at the locak food store...79 cents or so a gallon.
Mine has 40% or so antifreeze, and i found the CRC stuff under the NAPA brand at their store for 5 bucks. I expect to change it out, backflushing the radiator again this fall.
I also bypassed my heater core as it was leaking...and since I am here in Ga I haven't missed it this past year, No overheating problems, and no heat in the cockpit, although I did use the heat strip on my roof a/c one trip.
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Old 08-10-2004, 09:31 AM   #25
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I took the rig in to the Onan shop to check-out the issues with the generator (it's a GenSet Emerald III-probably like most back then) and, I'm happy (?) to report that $489.00 later it runs like a top...so far. They found a crack in the fuel line at the flare fitting by the tank, a bad fuel pump, over-cycle condition, and adjusted the mixture, idle, etc. and replaced plugs, points condenser, etc. Didn't change the oil for some reason, but I will as soon as I have some time; maybe when we're out some weekend. Also discovered the clock isn't turning over and is stuck at 157 hrs.

My rear Coleman Delta TX A/C has taken a peculiar turn; when I had it serviced at A.C. Nelsen a few weeks ago they said it was running great and is the better of the two, evidently it was pushing/returning more cool air or something.

When we used it on our excursion, we were plugged into 30 Amp shore service and everything seemed to be working hunky-dory but shortly after turning it back on one afternoon it started just fine and was blowing nice frigid air all happy like, and about 15 minutes later my wife asked "Honey, why is this A/C making this humming noise instead of blowing cold air?" I just hate it when she asks those kinds of questions.

Well, I've been chasing the notion that the A/C compressor's Start Capacitor was out and was having a devil of a time finding a replacement— the guys at RV Comfort suggested that was the problem. Finally, someone who seems to be a fairly smart guy at a local capacitor supply shop suggested pulling it and letting him test it and maybe subbing in a higher spec piece; a 108-130 mfd.

So the other day, just to be sure it wasn't a temporary fluke I started the generator and turned on the A/C to see if it would work, it didn't blow but it sounds like the compressor is humming away just fine. I talked w/RV Comfort again, different guy this time, and he suggested starting the A/C, getting on the roof with the shroud removed, and spinning the fan to see if it takes off. If it does, it's a bad fan Start Capacitor, if not... I'm in deep kimchi and he say's the entire unit must be replaced!

Question: are there any sources for replacement circuit boards for these units either new, refurb or salvage? If worse comes to worst, and I have to replace it, are the new replacement units (Mach 3 Plus) exact drop-in replacements?

The Ford dealership guy said the carb looks fairly good and to try a rebuild kit first; and that the dash air thing may be the result of a vac leak that directs the air to the windshield on acceleration or steady throttle, and on decceleration the engines vac demand diminishes and frees enough vac that the heater-A/C baffles redirect the air back through the dash. Any ideas where/how to start looking/tracing for a vac leak?

Thanks. And thanks for all those helpful posts.

Alan
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Old 08-10-2004, 10:07 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 89_370LE
My rear Coleman Delta TX A/C has taken a peculiar turn;
Question: are there any sources for replacement circuit boards for these units either new, refurb or salvage? If worse comes to worst, and I have to replace it, are the new replacement units (Mach 3 Plus) exact drop-in replacements?

Alan...

Check out this thread....http://www.airforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=13139

and this one...http://www.airforums.com/forum...ht=replacement

one more....http://www.airforums.com/forum...ht=replacement

There have been several discussions recently on the proper way to (re)pan a replacement AC.

One bit of advice.....go for the 15,000 BTU unit - there is no comparisson as far as the output goes between the new front AC and the original rear AC.
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Old 08-10-2004, 01:13 PM   #27
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89 370le...

Just some thoughts - Your rig may not have a catalytic converter. Some applications with the 460 engine were non catalyst as late as 1997. Also, if your engine has the Holley carb. and it has backfired, you probably need at least a power valve. The Holleys were also prone to leaky bowl gaskets, improper float settings causing flooding and blown power valves. The good part is that unless the carb base is warped or there is excessive wear where the linkage passes through the base, the carbs rebuild very well. Another note on the pre fuel injected 460's; the timing had some built in retardation at the factory starting in 1972 (I think). A aftermarket timing gear and chain will correct the problem, which will give a definate boost in performance. If the engine has over 50-60k miles, it would be a good idea to have the timing chain checked as 460's do seem to go through the factory gear and chain quicker than other engines. Good luck - the 460's are extremely durable engines.
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Old 09-11-2004, 12:59 PM   #28
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Hi! I need some info on two things; both related.

One: Was out over Labor Day, plugged into 20/30 Amp shore power and discovered 36 hours later that I had NO 12v power? The refrigerator was not running, the Energenius Converter's Power ON light was lit as was the Charging light BUT it was NOT humming as it usually does. Checked my coach batteries and BOTH were dead (down to .88v) They are both just 11 months old; AC Delco Deep Charge M24MF that I bought last November in Reno. Luckily I had a charger and both took a charge but NEITHER to a FULL charge- neither the Charger green LED came on nor did the battery "eye" change from red to green. Evidently the Energenius is not powering the 12v coach circuits, NO POWER anywhere on the 12v circuits, overhead lights, reading lights, water heater, fridge, zilch. After charging the batteries, had power to all the aforementioned 12v stuff. After driving 4 hours the coach batteries were still below the full charge level and the battery eyes were still red. The Energenius Auto Mode button and light have never worked either. None of the breakers were tripped nor any fuses blown. What to do? It all seemed to work okay a few weeks ago at the festival when the rear AC fan/blower quit running (before I had the Onan serviced).

Two: To get the 3 way Dometic refrigerator back into full operation I figured it would merely be a matter of connecting a 110v three prong extension cord from the exterior MH outlet to the refrigerators three prong plug-in connector. WRONG! Turn the power switch on and the light stays off! Absolutely no power from what appears to be a 110v cord. I know the MH outlet is hot because we have a string of lights attached to it... and they work! Did NOT try its gas operation, which wouldn't work anyway because there was no 12v spark to ignite it (same issue as with the water heater, which fired immediately after the 12v coach batteries were charged and back online) Is there some issue with the functionality of the refrigerator that I'm unaware of? Also I found a small multivolt power supply inside the refrigerator's exterior access hatch, it was disconnected but had once been securely taped to a grey extension cord that now has the refrigerator power cord attached, it in turn is plugged into the outlet up on the coachs inside wall above the hatch door. I couldn't see much up there (or whether it was a single or double 120v outlet) and don't know why the extension cord was used or what the 6/9/12v converter was/is hooked to or where it leads. Any of this sound familiar, or does anyone have any ideas or anyone ever seen one these configs? Shouldn't the refrigerator work when plugged directly into the 110v connector, regardless where the power cord is ultimately attached?

Thanks, guys.

Alan
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