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Old 06-01-2009, 10:19 PM   #1
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Question Serpentine belt replacement tips and procedure 454 LY 30

Can it be done without a lift and certified mechanic?
I have replaced them on regular cars but alway had a view of at least most of the pulleys and tensioners, on looking at the 454 from the doghouse view I can see the top of the belt and feel about halfway down.
What have you used mirrors, second person below, practice doing mechanics with a blindfold or in the dark?
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Old 06-01-2009, 10:23 PM   #2
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Being psychic helps. You'll have to crawl up inside the bottom of the engine compartment, and use a flat wrench to get the tensioner. It lifts up.
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Old 06-01-2009, 10:50 PM   #3
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If you dont see a schematic showing the belt layout make your own before you remove it. Sometimes your sure it goes one way and it really goes the other way. If the grooves are on both sides of the belt thats double fun. Once you get the new one on and your sure, check each section of the belt thats making contact with a pulley is in the right position. If the belt is off by a groove it will shred that part of the belt pretty quickly. Get in there with a flash lite and take a careful look. You might even be able to move the fan shroud a bit to make easier access..

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Old 06-02-2009, 12:17 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by overlander63 View Post
Being psychic helps. You'll have to crawl up inside the bottom of the engine compartment, and use a flat wrench to get the tensioner. It lifts up.
Bottom shows the lowest pully and I can feel it going around and off to next, no room to do anything except see location of belt on pulley. Looks like in the wheel well by removing the air pipe over manifold and the radiator hose, center section can be seen or felt, and of course from the top the a/c and enough room to put an arm in, probably can reach to midpoint.
Think I will try the digital camera to get a better look.
On looking it up they only give .2-.3 hrs for tech to do it, On an open system that would be more than enough time. I must be missing something as it would take more time to just to get it accessible.
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Old 06-02-2009, 12:25 PM   #5
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If you dont see a schematic showing the belt layout make your own before you remove it. Sometimes your sure it goes one way and it really goes the other way. If the grooves are on both sides of the belt thats double fun. Once you get the new one on and your sure, check each section of the belt thats making contact with a pulley is in the right position. If the belt is off by a groove it will shred that part of the belt pretty quickly. Get in there with a flash lite and take a careful look. You might even be able to move the fan shroud a bit to make easier access..

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I have the book layout, but will verify before attempting, grooves are only on one side, no edge of shroud is available or possible to move. I think it will be entirely on amount of space to relieve tensioner, then deciding order of take off and reversing to put back on.
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Old 06-02-2009, 12:53 PM   #6
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Dave,

Why are you replacing the belt? It should be good for 100,000 miles.
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Old 06-02-2009, 01:29 PM   #7
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Dave,

Why are you replacing the belt? It should be good for 100,000 miles.
What affects the belts more than mileage is age and heat. We recommend close inspections after 60k and some cracks are completely normal but if the individual grooves are peeling off trouble is on the way. Consider that this belt provides power steering, in some cases power brake boost assist, water pump, alternator and those are just a few of the things you cant live without. Its cheap assurance for a happy camping experience. The alternative usually involves a tow truck

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Old 06-02-2009, 03:13 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmickle View Post
Dave,

Why are you replacing the belt? It should be good for 100,000 miles.
Don't like tow trucks!
On a car it is a 5 min job, thought this group would know the secret to a quick install.
Reading I have done it is 100,000 for car or truck that puts on 20,000 per year, so 5 yrs life span if normal, MH is not normal.
After I put in a switch that will keep the fan on after shutdown and as I will be towing less than the 3000 max, po towed 3700, my gut feeling is the belt has had stress of heat and 10+ yrs. Even if AS tagged it as a 2000, chevy completed chassis at end of 98 and called it 99 and belt is original.
Shouldn't have to touch sp or wires either as odometer has 32000 but when I could see teeth marks on wires and pulled plugs were worn with every classic type of problem, same with rotor and distributor cap, coil paint was peeling, replace and keep parts as spares is better than hoping they fail at a convenient time
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Old 06-02-2009, 03:35 PM   #9
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If it will help, the belt goes, starting from bottom toward passenger side:
Crank
(smog pump, if equipped)
Alternator
Tensioner (goes on back of the belt)
A/C compressor
Power Steering
Water pump (pump goes on the back of the belt)
Crank.
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Old 06-02-2009, 10:00 PM   #10
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If it will help, the belt goes, starting from bottom toward passenger side:
Crank
(smog pump, if equipped)
Alternator
Tensioner (goes on back of the belt)
A/C compressor
Power Steering
Water pump (pump goes on the back of the belt)
Crank.
Thanks your description of parts and belt placement matches chevy chassis guide's drawing better than their's, they say "over all pulleys except tensioner" even tho they show water pump is using the back of the belt.
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