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Old 06-27-2012, 01:20 PM   #1
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1992 36' Land Yacht
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Rear disc brake question

Up till now I assumed that I had rear drums on my 1992 36' LY motor home. Today I did a quick check before I went out to buy shoes and was surprised to find out I had disc brakes on the back of the dually wheels. After some checking on auto parts webs sites I'm a bit confused. Most sites seem to indicate that the back and front brake pads are the same. Others seem to be more ambiguous.

Does anyone know if the front and rear pads are the same?

I'd like to verify it and pick up the parts needed before I jack up the unit. I don't want the MH sitting on jack stands for any longer then it needs to be.
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Old 07-03-2012, 12:18 AM   #2
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
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To me, your best bet would be to contact your local Chevy Dealer (assuming this is a P-32 chassis) I was lucky enough that my local dealer also has a truck showroom, therefore truck repair shop. All of brake work was performed by them, albeit a HUGE dent in Previous Owners wallet.
Also, have you used the search function for this Forum? Very good chance that someone has answered your question already.
Thanks, Derek
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Old 07-03-2012, 08:08 AM   #3
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I have the P-30 chassis and as best I can find I have the same brake shoes on the front and back. I ordered a new set of Wagner Thermo-Quiet MX149 pads (same as I have on the front) along with all three hoses (outer left, outer right and center) to complete the job. I took advantage of the Advance Autoparts "get $50 off for any purchase of $100 or more" offer. The pads and all three hoses cost me ~$63. There is no way I'm spending the $$$$ at a dealer when I can do the work myself. I did search here and found nothing specific about the rear disc brakes. That's why I posted it. Once I know they work I'll post the part numbers on the hoses too.
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Old 07-06-2012, 03:57 AM   #4
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I've got the repair sheet from Chevy dealer, will go through and see what the Chevy parts numbers are and post if you need me to.
Derek
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Old 07-08-2012, 03:18 PM   #5
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choctaw , Oklahoma
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I did my brakes and got a new disc and all the pads from O'Rielly's. They punch the info into the little store computer and they had the parts on the shelf. Don't recall the cost, but wasn't very expensive at all.
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Old 07-15-2012, 04:47 PM   #6
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OK, I've finished the rear brake job. For those that may be interested in the future, here are the part numbers I've found that work:

Rear pads: Wagner Thermo-Quiet MX149 pads (Same for the front)

Right Rear Outer Hose: Wagner:BH104342, Bendix:77330, Raybestos:BH38267, Tru-Torque:H38267

Left Rear Outer Hose: Wagner:BH104341, Bendix:77329, Raybestos:BH38264, Tru-Torque:H38264

Center Rear Hose: Wagner:F80967, Bendix:88651, Raybestos:BH36765, Tru-Torque:H80967

Hope this helps someone in the future.
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Old 11-01-2012, 12:36 PM   #7
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BTW, we should all be bleeding our brakes every other year too. Keeps from developing crud in the brake system.
I use ATE Super Blue, and ATE 200 brake fluids. These are racing, high temp fluids. Two reasons for these fluids. 1. Ever look at your front brake rotors after you have gone through the mountains? They get hot. 2. These two fluids are different colors. The blue is of course blue, and the 200 is straw or clear. That makes it easy when you are bleeding, you just use the opposite one. That way when the color changes, you know you have fresh fluid at that bleeder. Other than the color, they are the same fluid.
Rob
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Old 11-01-2012, 12:49 PM   #8
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Great info!
I use Rockauto's site a lot for research on part numbers, and its been great so far!
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Old 11-01-2012, 01:12 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robfike View Post
BTW, we should all be bleeding our brakes every other year too. Keeps from developing crud in the brake system.
I use ATE Super Blue, and ATE 200 brake fluids. These are racing, high temp fluids. Two reasons for these fluids. 1. Ever look at your front brake rotors after you have gone through the mountains? They get hot. 2. These two fluids are different colors. The blue is of course blue, and the 200 is straw or clear. That makes it easy when you are bleeding, you just use the opposite one. That way when the color changes, you know you have fresh fluid at that bleeder. Other than the color, they are the same fluid.
Rob
Rob,

Do you bleed the brakes yourself or do you have someone else do it? If you do it what method do you use?

One of the biggest problems I had with a service shop was the repair/bleeding of the brakes on our 310. It was a total disaster, took them a month to get it right.

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 11-01-2012, 05:02 PM   #10
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I always bleed them myself. To me the trick is to let as little air in the lines as possible. I replaced the rubber brake lines on all 4 wheels and had no issues with bleeding the lines. I simply disconnect the line and connect the new one to the main line but not to the caliper. I let gravity take over and wait until I get fluid dripping from the new line. I then connect it to the caliper while still dripping. Once connected, I remove the bleeder screw from the caliper until I get fluid running out of the bleeder. Tighten the bleeder and you're set. I check the brakes for any sponginess. In the worst case I use the wife to step on the brakes while I open the bleeder. The ole tried and true methods usually work the best. As a backup I carry a "Mighty-Vac" hand pump brake bleeder in the RV just in case. I’ve never had to use it though.
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Old 11-01-2012, 05:03 PM   #11
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If I would have done a standard bleed it wouldn't have done much, when I took a mirror to the reservoir I found it lined with crud, disconnected it, wiped and flushed it out. Amazing what can collect there, more years on my daily driver and fluid was still clean after 15 yrs. New rule for fluid on the MH is changing every few years.
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Old 11-09-2012, 02:04 PM   #12
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Wow, I thought my rears were drums too but never looked.
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Old 12-09-2012, 12:16 PM   #13
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I installed speedbleeders on my ASLY2000 works great, can do a bleed/change solo. Available at Speed Bleeder Bleeding Brakes Bleeding Motorcycle Brakes Automotive Bleeder Screw Brake Bleeder. Just be sure to keep the MC topped up if changing.

Steve
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Old 12-09-2012, 09:38 PM   #14
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I installed several sets too and found one that leaked air. Ended up having to bleed the system with a mity-vac because of all the air that entered the system from the defective speed bleeder. Wont use them again.
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