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Old 02-23-2007, 09:04 PM   #1
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Rear air system compressor

Starting to check out some of the systems that weren't working when we picked up the MH. A quick check before we left Savannah told me that the air compressor wasn't working. What I've since found is the wire from the pressure switch to the compressor was cut in two and there was no fuse in the fuse box, nor was the wire plugged into the fuse box. The wire in the fuse box area was partially melted which tells me somethings amiss

First thing I did was check the compressor with an ohm meter. Wasn't a dead short and it wasn't open, so far so good. As you'll see in the picture below I spliced in a short piece of wire. I WILL replace the wire from the switch to the compressor when I get things working again

I then used a jumper wire from the fuse block to the compressor feed wire and the compressor started up

I let it run for 10 minutes or so and it had raised the back of the coach about 1/8". As yet I don't know if thats good or bad. I'll do a more extensive test sometime in the next few weeks. I still need to check the rest of the rear air system to make sure all the pieces are in place before I actually try using the compressor on a regular basis.

The compressor shown below is what is installed in our 310. Does this look like something anyone has seen before in one of these coaches? It looks to be an original installation. What appears to be missing to me is some kind of air filter on the intake side of the cylinders.



Thanks!

Brad
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Old 02-24-2007, 06:20 AM   #2
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Any number of search possibilities out there while awaiting a response. Try 'air bags'?
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Old 02-24-2007, 06:34 AM   #3
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By the look of it, I would up grade to a new unit and lines.

Search - Rear air suspension - Camping World

I replaced the air bags in the front end of my rig. Need to look at the rear, no air suspension installed... yet
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Old 02-24-2007, 06:55 AM   #4
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That's a stock compressor. Presure has to get to about 120# in the reserve tank. You can pressurize the tank from the shreader valve on the bottom of the tank.
Lubricate the leveling arms attached to the leveleing switches just outboard of the airbags. Check your airbags for integrity.
The front airbags should only get 55# and are not connected to this system.
The compressor runs just long enought to really p.o. your camping neighbors so a cutoff switch is a very good idea. I have no idea why the system wants to run at 4 a.m.
The system is common to a lot of over the road trailers and somewhat easy to source parts for.
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Old 03-01-2007, 05:46 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenCoombe
That's a stock compressor. Presure has to get to about 120# in the reserve tank. You can pressurize the tank from the shreader valve on the bottom of the tank.
Lubricate the leveling arms attached to the leveleing switches just outboard of the airbags. Check your airbags for integrity.
The front airbags should only get 55# and are not connected to this system.
The compressor runs just long enought to really p.o. your camping neighbors so a cutoff switch is a very good idea. I have no idea why the system wants to run at 4 a.m.
The system is common to a lot of over the road trailers and somewhat easy to source parts for.
Thanks for the info. I still haven't had time to run the air compressor for a long period of time to see how well it works.

I find it interesting that your compressor runs anytime. Mine is keyed to the ignition switch.

I did find that all of the leveling system does seem to be intact, just don't know how much of it is functional. One of these days I'll figure that out!

Thanks,

Brad
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Old 03-01-2007, 05:49 PM   #6
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I had the same compressor in my 1984 310. Deterimed that it could not produce the 110# pressure required so replaced it with a new unit. Mine was also wired to the ignition.

Glenn,
does yours run off of the chassis or house batteries?
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Old 03-01-2007, 08:34 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guy99
I had the same compressor in my 1984 310. Deterimed that it could not produce the 110# pressure required so replaced it with a new unit. Mine was also wired to the ignition.
guy99,

What brand/model compressor did you go with? I've read there is someone who rebuilds them for $75. Not sure if thats a bargain or not.

Thanks,

Brad
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Old 03-01-2007, 09:36 PM   #8
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It was a Firestone Ride-Rite, don't have the model number at the moment but should have it next week.
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Old 03-02-2007, 05:38 PM   #9
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Guy, the compressor in my rig is wired to the chassis battery with a very low tech alligator clip to disconnect when required... like when you're camping and don't want to wake the neighbors at 3 or 4 a.m.
Switching to an ignition circuit makes sence. Yet another on my list of to-do's.
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Old 03-20-2007, 09:04 PM   #10
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Air bag woes

I cross posted in the general forum as well but here goes. Just picked up my 345 from a performance shop who installed hedmans, flowmasters and an msd ignition as well as replacing a right front brake caliper. The air susension was showing plenty of psi when i dropped it off but after I left the shop and was across town i notriced it wasn't riding right. lo and behold,I had no air pressure showing on the gauge. Can anyone tell me where i would find the air compressor and fuse or if I even have one and how I would trouble shoot it? Thanks.
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Old 03-21-2007, 06:06 AM   #11
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wpapke, I've attached some pages out of the Classic Service manual that hopefully will help you out. I'll dig out the fuse information for you this evening.

Hope this helps.

Brad








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Old 03-21-2007, 06:57 AM   #12
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Caution on Compressor Replacement

In regards to the wiring diagram in the previous post - please note that the high amperage line driving the motor goes directly to the battery breaker buss - not the ignition.

Only the solenoid control is switched at the ignition.

Some of the replacement compressors can create a huge amperage draw (my current compressor on the 345 will pull 30 amps), and no ignition switch that I know of is rated for such a large load.

The circuit diagram bkahler provided indicates a 10 gauge wire for the main motor - this may not be sufficient for a replacement compressor and a long wire route. In many instances the original wiring was way undersized for the purpose.

A voltage drop/length of wire run/ amperage table can be found here:

Voltage drop, distcance and wire guage

The cost of upgrading a couple of wire sizes far outweighs the cost of a new compresser cratered due to running in an undervoltage situation created by a too small feed wire.

The original 10 guage wire was WAY too small for the replacement compressor the PO had installed on the 345.
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Old 05-10-2007, 12:53 PM   #13
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Thanks very much Brad. The rig is sitting at camping world st. augustine, waiting to go to Suncoast or Ray's tires to have the bags replaced. The service manager said they could not do service the airbags.
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Old 05-10-2007, 12:56 PM   #14
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and thanks to rivetmaster also.
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