Joe,
The bags should be filling from the air tank. I'm not sure about the setup on the smaller floorplans (on my 345 there are leveling values on the tag axles which add or release air based on ride height).
Anyone with a smaller floorplan that can diagram out the flow for Joe?
On ours there are leveling valves as well. The arms run under the axle, the bags sit over them.
If the valves are working they will add air as needed.
You also have to check your tank to see if it has too much moisture in it (this is what rusted out mine), there should be a valve underneath the coach where the tank sits above it. You can use it to let moisture out, but not to add air in. The switches and power supply are right next to the tank...in the same area.
also check this thread- http://www.airforums.com/forum...ghlight=airbag
__________________
Rallys twice a year..Lots of fun, food, and aluminum.
Check out this DVD, listed on Ebay occasionally. It may not be there now but it is sometimes. Type a search for (RV MOTORHOME AIR BAG SUSPENSION DVD L@@K!). The bags on my bus where messed up when I bought it. The problem that I had was identifying the air bags and going through a local RV dealer. I took them in to Fleet Pride and they knew what I needed and I had them in about two weeks.
We have the same set of problems. We have gathered information from this forum and other sources and are working toward a solution. We will share what we learn if we succeed. Cheers Tom
On my coach the whole compressor and leveling system was bypassed and there are schrader valves on the wheel wells for inflation.
In my 5 weeks of ownership I just realized that I've had them overinflated. I had them set about 3.5 inches too high(way too high); measuring from the top plate to bottom plate. This made the wheel wells about 3 inches higher over the tires, and the rear of the coach about 7 inches higher.
I set them this way for 3 reasons:
1. I didn't want to scrape the rear end leaving my driveway,
2. I thought more pressure = stiffer/better handling,
3. I didn't know any better.
I recently installed a Air-Lift controller so I can adjust the air on the fly. I also read some info from this forum about the proper height, so half way through my trip this weekend I decided to try the proper height. The coach handles so much better. Going back to the height I had it at before makes it feel like the coach is going to tip over during turns. Moving all that mass so much higher made the coach want to tip. lowering it back down made for a drastic improvement.
So now I air up the rear end when I have to negotiate my driveway, then I air it back down once I'm on the road.
Now that I have working brakes and proper handling, I don't feel quite so out of control.
OutOfControl etal,
This forum is so helpful in keeping these magnificent old machines going. I'm personally grateful to many contributors.
We bought our 1984 Airstream 27MH in Oklahoma this past January. I spent part of 2 days going over every system. I was quite happy because everything worked. Everything had been repaired but not renewed. So I set out for the 1400 mile drive home to Upstate NY with the coach level and 50 F air temp. 12 hours later in sub freezing weather , the air compressor quit because it couldn't supply air to the air bags. I slept for the night and early in the AM I called Fred Hinds of Fred's Airstream fame. He helped me by telling me to fill the accumulator tank and also told me about the forum.
To shorten the story, we put in a rebuilt compressor from John Clement in California, pulled the check valve out of the line to make sure it was working, then we replaced the main leveling valve at the rear axel. Everything is working perfectly now. I run the front 2 air bags at 55# (which registers 60 on my dashboard guage) and I run the 2 rear air bags at 90# (which registers at 120# on dashboard).
The water in the system and freezing temps can stop the system from working and even damage parts. When the rear airbags are deflated the front head lights point into the trees. They don't even illuminate the road and the coach bottoms out.
We have also put on headers and completely redone the fresh water plumbing system. We're good to go for the rest of the summer...we hope.
Thanks again to all. PM me for any specifics. Cheers, Tom
Aaaaaaarrrrggghhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!! After reading some of this thread last night, and congratulating myself that my rear air worked well, I went down to start the Zeppelin on my way home from work tonight. You know what happened--the rear suspension air dash gage showed about 10 pounds, then nothing.
A couple of questions:
1. I changed all the 20A fuses in the fuse box because none are marked for äir" or "suspension". Made no difference (even if they all needed to be replaced). Does anyone know which fuse powers the rear compressor in a late (1990-91) 350? (Are there any in-line fuses hidden anywhere else?)
2. My owners manual shows a low rear suspension warning light to the LEFT of the ignition switch on the dash. Zeppelin has none, and no indication that there ever was one. Is this common, or not?
3. What is the most common area where I should look for problems? Soleniod, pressure switch, check valve?
I will be able to do the recommended checks under the vehicle this weekend, and I may be able to hot wire the compressor and other parts and isolate failed components. I'll try to take pictures and post--because I rarely see stuff from 350's posted.
.... What is the most common area where I should look for problems? Soleniod, pressure switch, check valve?....I may be able to hot wire the compressor and other parts and isolate failed components.
The original fuse for the compressor in the 345 was on the fuse block in the glove compartment. You may give some second thoughts on hot wiring in order to do a circuit check. Be sure you do not put any individual wire in a situation that you could fry the entire length of the circuit - some of the wires would be very difficult to replace.
The primary problem with the air system in my '87 345 was the 12 gauge wire that AS installed at the factory. Look at the spec tag on your compressor, find out how many amps it draws, then actually measure the distance of the wire run from the compressor to the fuse block (lots of bends and back and forths here). After you have this information (length and amps) go to any of the multitude of ampacity/voltage loss tables on the internet and find what gauge of wire will be required - I would recommend a 3% line loss value. I found on mine that the compressor required a minimum of 6 gauge wire. I installed a 4 gauge wire with a thermal breaker from the house/chassis-booster solenoid junction back to the compressor. I then took the wire to the drivers side rear to use this relatively quality source as a booster voltage for the toad and trailer lighting and charge lines. The macerator for the sewerage disposal system also uses this line as a power source.
Besides the wiring, the check valve was the only thing that need replacing on the air system. I found a check valve at a Peterbilt dealer - be sure to use a check valve designed for high vibration applications.
I would highly recommend NOT moving with deflated airbags. On a rear air suspension system such as on the 345 deflated bags will allow the flange on the main frame to contact the suspension springs causing permanent damage to the frame.
__________________
Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
I discovered the problem with my compressor--which was precisely nothing. The vehicle was on its levelers. When put back on the ground, after about 30 seconds, the needle in the gage comes up, the compressor comes on, and Bob's your Uncle. OF COURSE, there is nothing in the owner's manual or the manual for the levelers which says that this is the way it works, but somewhere here there is a thread which explains how it works, which I read AFTER I figured it out.
As they say down the county: It jus bees dat way!!
I reworked my wiring to my compressor. The OEM wire was way to small. The compressor just did not seem to get up to proper speed.
I started buy running a 6 gage wire from the house bank. I fused this line at the battery's with a 30 amp large buss fuse. This line run to the compressor that is in the left rear compartment where our electric hoop up is on the 310's.
The old OEM wire I use to power a water tight 30 amp relay and controlled with the pressure switch. This insures a full 12 volts to the compressor, and only runs when the ignition switch is on.
Compressor runs full speed and does not over heat the motor from the low voltage from the wimpy OEM wire.
I have done a DIY article at This Old RV. Give it a look see. This might help you with the rear air bag system for adjustment of the level valve and replacement of components of the American Carrier System.
__________________
Chris & Brenda
1982 310 Motor Home
Members of the Christian Motorcyclists Association
Pullin a 98 Saturn SL2 or a 96 HD Ultra Classic
Old tow truck, 01 Duramax CC More on our 310
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, the air compressor quit because it couldn't supply air to the air bags. I slept for the night and early in the AM I called Fred Hinds of Fred's Airstream fame. He helped me by telling me to fill the accumulator tank and also told me about the forum. 
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