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Old 05-04-2014, 12:23 PM   #71
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Take the tach wire out of the loop, and anything else not essential and then add the stuff back after it is running right.

Keep it as simple as possible at first.
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Old 05-04-2014, 12:44 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Morgan View Post
Take the tach wire out of the loop, and anything else not essential and then add the stuff back after it is running right.

Keep it as simple as possible at first.
Since I am waiting for mufflers for a few days anyway, (The neighbors dont appreciate my Airstream enthusiasm and I dont need them calling the cops for my tests). AFI is going to send a ECM with new chip and distributor. If that fails I will pull the tach & cruise wires.
Failing that, then maybe it just aint meant to be?
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Old 05-04-2014, 01:20 PM   #73
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Maybe so, but I am hard headed, I don't like to be beaten by machines that won't cooperate....
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Old 05-09-2014, 06:06 PM   #74
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Good news, the replacement parts took care of the problem. I need to button it up and take a test drive tomorrow, more details later, I am exhausted
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Old 05-09-2014, 06:30 PM   #75
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Way cool.

Congratulations!
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Old 05-10-2014, 12:29 PM   #76
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Everything ran great but I did not push the engine hard, only brought it up to about 60 MPH. I took a data file to send to AFI for analysis. The run was going good for the amount of work I had just done on it. Besides the TBI, the water pump, hoses and radiator have been replaced. I had also rebuilt the dash with LED lights and a new speedometer and the new in dash DVD/Radio/GPS My only concern was for a fan belt squeal, I think it is the new alternator belt that is smaller bypassing the air pump, and it may need dressing or tightening.

Then about 1/2 way through the test I saw the dash voltage gauge briefly drop to zero and heard a click behind the dash every min or so, it also cause my laptop screen to dim, I assumed it was a circuit breaker resetting from some wiring error in the dash. I found the problem when I got home. One of the wires on the wiper motor came off and was shorting to ground, the clicking sound was the wiper switch which has a internal breaker in case your wipers stall. That is fixed.

Only problem besides the belt squeal is that I still have the idle surges when I parked it, so some minor work still needs doing, but that can wait.

Now it is time to focus on getting it dewinterized and ready to roll for memorial weekend.

I still need to work on my web article about this project, I think I should make 2 articles, one for how it should go, and one to show possible enthusiasts, what can go wrong. All of that will have to wait till after Memorial Weekend and a good long run to feel out the new gear.
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Old 05-29-2014, 05:38 AM   #77
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Well I survived Memorial weekend, mostly.
I had it loaded very heavy, and my route was about 130 miles with some medium size hills and 20 MPH turns in the last leg. It ran great all the way until I hit that section of road. That is when I could hear noise coming from the electric fuel pump and the fuel pressure started getting erratic, at one point dropped to zero and the engine died. I climbed underneath and everything looked OK but even with the pump away from engine heat, it was rather hot. I also noticed that my crisscross of fuel lines from the mechanical pump into the electric pump and up to the throttle body were very warm because they were getting heated from the radiator fan. I forgot to take that into consideration when I did the plumbing.
Letting it sit for a moment and then restarting brought the fuel pressure back up to its normal 28 PSI and it was rather steady, so I finished the last 15 miles of my trip.

On the way home it happened again, and turning it off and back on and the pressure came back up and it made the remaining 80 miles home on the highway.

My guess is that when I slow down on hills and curves, the fuel in the lines begins to boil and that causes the electric turbine pump to cavitate and it cant supply fuel fast enough when I need to apply more throttle to get up hills and increase speed after curves.
For the cure, at first I was thinking of putting the turbine electric pump by the tank, but the tank sits about 12" below the frame and the pump would have to be close to the level of the bottom of the tank to operate properly. I called AFI and they suggested I get a lift pump, it is a solenoid type of electric pump that can pull fuel better than a turbine style pump.
I will put that one about 1/2 way down the frame where I have a screw on fuel/water separator/filter and I will take the mechanical pump out of the circuit and leave the turbine pump where it is.
If it still has problems then I will try the more traditional fuel setup by bringing the fuel lines off the back of the engine and mounting the turbine pump back there someplace.

Also I sent some engine data to AFI before the trip and they sent me a new chip to tweak the tuning. I have not tried it yet, maybe I will get a chance this weekend.
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Old 05-29-2014, 02:28 PM   #78
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I wrapped my fuel lines (quadrajet with standard hard fuel line coming up the front of the engine) because my fuel kept boiling when it slowed down in the lines. It's better but not one hundred percent yet, will be putting on a purpose-built wrap when I see the 310 in September. Routing the line in from behind sounds like a good plan, the front of the engine is getting blasted with hot air coming out of the radiator.
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Old 05-29-2014, 05:08 PM   #79
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Quadrajet to Fuel injection conversion

I know I said it before, but I really, really, really don't like that mechanical pump being in the mix.

It might not be a factor in your issue, but just the fact that it is there is going to make you wonder if it is a problem every time you have an issue.

My recommendation is a Carter vane pump as a lift pump in within 10 or 15 feet of the tank and then your pressure pump wherever you want. As a rule, the shorter the run the better, and routed away from hot stuff as much as practical.

A vane pump does a fair job of lifting fuel, and I have found the Carters very reliable.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/g...i/DSCN0376.jpg
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Old 05-29-2014, 07:24 PM   #80
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Quadrajet to Fuel injection conversion

I'm not very familiar with the injection system you are using but one thing I've found important is a good stabilized fuel pressure at the injectors. One good HP pump at or in the tank and a pressure regulator with return line at the injectors is a winning combination. It also eliminates vapor lock. Most efi regulators have a reference line to manifold pressure. Again, not familiar with your setup but I'll throw it out there.
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Old 05-30-2014, 03:50 AM   #81
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From what I have read in other forums is that my P30 chassis (an 83) is about 1 1/2 years prior to in tank fuel pumps. Sooner or later I need to drop the tank to replace the old lines, they ran rubber hose everywhere on the top of this tank.
I wonder if the flange on the 83 tank is the same as the ones with in tank pumps?
If they are it should not be hard to switch over. If not, I will have to have some pump that can lift the fuel the full height of the tank without sucking air when the tank is low and it is sloshing around.
I already ordered the lift pump AFI recommended, a Carter P74017, hopefully it will work from about 6' away and about 6" above the bottom of the tank. The mounting of my gas tank leaves no room around it except about 4" between it and the air ride gear on the axle.

And one reason I kept the mechanical pump was in case the AFI system failed, I kept my Quadrajet in the MH and enough parts so I could swap back to it with minimal effort. The lift pump should provide the same 5 PSI so the mechanical pump can go.
On that note, Has anyone ever pulled their mechanical fuel pump and blanked it off?
If so, did you leave the push rod in or take it out? I am wondering because I am not sure if there is a oil port on the rod bore that if the rod is not there, if it would mess up the flow to other parts?
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Old 05-30-2014, 07:51 AM   #82
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There is no oil port in the rod bore.

I have pulled the rods after removing pumps and I have on occasion left them in. I always figured that they would tick if left is but they haven't.

I take the rods out if it is easy, and I leave them in if they are blocked by the chassis.
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Old 06-01-2014, 03:31 PM   #83
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Mechanical fuel pump is gone, electric lift pump is installed about 6' from the tank, after the main fuel filter, and the turbine pump is where it was and the hoses just bypass the mechanical pump.
I took it for a short run and it did fine, the fuel pressure is about 3 PSI lower AT 27 psi but it was steady for the entire test. It was not long enough to see if heat is still a factor, but I am starting to think the turbine pump from AFI may have problems, it is still rather noisy, and I have another one on order and I will swap it out to see if the noise is normal or a sign of problems with the pump. My next 100+ mile test wont be until the end of June. It would be great to come home with no problems. I think my biggest problem is the anxiety of worrying about being stuck in the middle of nowhere with the family. I did singn up for Good Sam tow service, but I hate to depend on that for a finish to a vacation
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Old 06-01-2014, 05:22 PM   #84
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You might consider locating your pump closer to the tank pickup. Any restriction on the suction side of the pump can cause problems. Six feet of 3/8" hose can cause enough pressure loss to allow warm gasoline to vaporize. Mine is located at the front end of the tank with just enough hose to reach the pickup tube located on top of the tank. Anyway you might give it some thought. Good luck.
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