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Old 12-28-2012, 10:05 PM   #113
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Can I say, "DAMN IT!" on here? Oh I just did. Got the alternator and A/C compressor, wiring harness all hooked up. Started hooking up the oil cooler line and crawled under to make sure which tube is the 'in' and which the 'out' took the torque convertor bolts with me to bolt it up, and THOSE IDIOTS I BOUGHT THE STROKER KIT FROM... YOU KNOW THE ONES THAT TOOK 17 DAYS TO FILL MY ORDER AND THEN LEFT THE WRIST PIN SNAPS OUT THAT TOOK ANOTHER 8 DAYS! THEY SENT THE WRONG DAMN FLEX PLATE!!!!!! Called those idiots before 1:00. Was told, "We don't have a flex plate to fit a 4L80e." "Three holes should line up." I told him I didn't want to be pulling 10 ton down the road with only 3 bolts holding it all together. To with he said, "I'll call you back in 1/2 hour." It's now well after 4:00 and no call. So, pull all the above installed ideas, bring hoist back in throw open COLD SNOWY garage door, unbolt and is now ready to remove once again. Never thought to check the new flex plate against the old. I know they ask me, "What transmission do you have." Sometimes the internet isn't a good idea.
Attachment 175365
I don't want to pull it out and leave it hanging on the hoist, plus we are going to have a New Years Day Barn party and I need as much room as I can get for that. I did have high hopes of having this running before Christmas, but I had to do business with the Bakersfield IDIOTS!
Hi Mel, I understand your pain as I have been through two flex plates so far. This is the last one from my post in another thread.

"Well this isn't exactly what I got for my moho, this is the old one, the new one is in the coach.


For those not familiar it is the flex plate which connects the crankshaft to the torque converter. As you can see the center part that bolts to the crankshaft is no longer connected to the rest of the plate that bolts to the torque converter.

As you can guess I was less than happy and yes we got to ride home with the AAA. Doing a little checking the thickness of this plate was .121". The plate I found at the local parts house was .111" thick. This was not a good solution so I kept looking. At Jegs I found one CSR 200 CSR Torque Master Flexplates= it is SFI spec 29.1 rated (a racing spec) and made from .187" thick 4130 chrome moly steel. When it arrived it measured .161" so I guess the .187" is before surfacing. For $200 I hope it lasts longer then the last one which lasted just short of 40,000 miles. Anyway it is in the coach and most of my bruises are healed".

The thing is my old plate had six bolts to the torque converter and all the new ones seem to six holes but they are in two different bolt circles giving two mounting options of three holes each. That seems to be the norm today for some reason. I called Jegs to make sure this plate had the six hole mount that I wanted and they insisted it did. Of coarse when it arrived it had the two mounting pattern option of three bolts each. Not wanting to argue about it I just bolted it to my mill and drilled the three more holes I needed.

Also as Brad suggested I just slid the trans back a bit and changed the flex plate in place. I dropped one end of the driveshaft, pulled the cross member bolts and slid the whole thing back a couple of inches. I have a Gear Vendors also and just slid the whole mess as a unit. I was just too lazy to pull the engine or trans.
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:08 PM   #114
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"Well this isn't exactly what I got for my moho, this is the old one, the new one is in the coach.
I had a friend with a Dodge 360 that was breaking flex plates exactly like that. (OK, the Dodge flex plates are different, but the failure was the same) It turned out the one of the two dowels that align the block to the transmission was missing. The misalignment was small, but it would eventually fatigue the flex plate causing the center to break out. Replacing the missing dowel cured the problem.

You may want to check your alignment. I can be off slightly even if the dowels are in place. Offset pieces are available.

I will admit that alignment is usually more often an issue with standards than automatics, but you are having some kind of issue. Might be worth checking. (Here's a description of the process for a standard bell housing at Circle Track Magazine)

My friend worked in a muffler shop and had access to a perimeter lift and a transmission jack, so it was easier for him. He changed so many before he figured out the problem that he could do it in about 20 minutes. Profanity was involved.
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:41 PM   #115
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Vaughan that is exactly the problem. When I got the coach it blew the flex plate half way home. The PO had cooked the engine and the outfit doing the rebuild removed bell housing and filed to realign it on install. The first plate lasted about 700 miles. When I got the coach, it made it about another 600 miles until the second plate went. I got to a shop in Eugene, Or. and with the trans guy found the housing to be .045" to one side. He realigned it and installed new dowel pins as many had been left out. He did the best he could but I'm sure it's not perfect. It is the Isuzu diesel so there is also the home made adapter that Airstream used to couple the Isuzu to the GM trans. I would guess that thin plate was not real happy with the diesel vibration either. Hopefully the thicker chrome-moly plate will live longer but for now I'll just keep driving it.

The Isuzu does well but if it gets to be enough of a problem that I have to pull the engine to do a proper bench alignment, you can pretty well bet that a 6BT Cummins will be going back in the hole.
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:47 PM   #116
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Vaughan that is exactly the problem. When I got the coach it blew the flex plate half way home. The PO had cooked the engine and the outfit doing the rebuild removed bell housing and filed to realign it on install...
That's funny. My friend's problems started when the 360 in his Charger had the hot light come on. I made his wife mad, so she drove it that way. It got so hot that the spark plugs drooped.

Replacing the cooked engine was the start of his problems.

I agree, the Cummins would be a great swap.
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:40 AM   #117
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I can only imagine what a Cummins would be like in a 20' Argosy motorhome!

Wish I had the money to find out...

Brad
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:52 AM   #118
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I can only imagine what a Cummins would be like in a 20' Argosy motorhome!

Wish I had the money to find out...

Brad
It's easy Brad, just take a drive in a Dodge pick up.
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Old 12-30-2012, 03:56 PM   #119
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I too wanted to do a Cummins swap, If I had found a wrecked Dodge 2 years ago, I would have. But I don't think it's a job for this old shade tree mechanic. But then between the cost of swapping to the 4L80e and now the stroker kit, I may have been money ahead to go Diesel and I'm sure torque/fuel mileage would far surpass what I'll ever get now.
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Old 01-13-2013, 07:04 PM   #120
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This came Friday afternoon by way of FedEx. Didn't get to work on 'Silver' till Saturday, but got the engine back in!. Today, after Church, I warmed up the shop and got to work on it. The wiring harness is 'routed' again. Got the brackets, alternator, P/S pump on, again. I started installing my oil cooler and notice the tubes from the oil filter adapter turned. I have never taking these tube loose/off. I tighten the tube connector nuts another 1/2' before they bottom out. Good o-rings I guess. Got my under bumper cooler and fairing on and hooked the the oil filter adapter tubes, but then I could not find the 'cooler ties'. Bought new ones, but can't find them now I spend more time looking for stuff than I do putting in on
Started replacing the vacuum line and then I had to rest.
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Good to be going back together with this again!
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:14 PM   #121
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It's easy Brad, just take a drive in a Dodge pick up.
Well, I do have a co-worker that has a Dodge with a Cummins. Just might have to ask him for a ride. The only problem with that is if I like it I won't be happy with the 454 that I've already got built
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:17 PM   #122
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Got my under bumper cooler and fairing on and hooked the the oil filter adapter tubes, but then I could not find the 'cooler ties'. Bought new ones, but can't find them now I spend more time looking for stuff than I do putting in on
Boy am I glad to hear I'm not the only one with that problem! I can set something down and then immediately forget where I left it. If I could stop that process from happening I'd get a LOT more done

Brad
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:53 PM   #123
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Guess you can say: I worked at it the last couple days. Got the exhaust hooked up, all the belts on and then I decided to put a new fan clutch on. I had broken the O2 sensor and O'rielly's failed me. They had these 4' long o2 sensors that I can't even screw in because of clearance problems. So, I tried out 'Advance Auto'. They had the replacement sensor just like the one I broke. Bought new plug wires. But I forgot to get the distributor and rotor, so back I go to the parts store. Was about ready to put the radiator back in when I saw pieced of rubber in the 'in' side of the oil cooler plate. Now I'm thinking, "Maybe I should get a new radiator or not use the in radiator oil cooler plate on this one." I do have the electric fan cooled oil cooler under the bumper.... I may do a search for radiators first think tomorrow. I've done so many 'upgrades' I can't remember if I need parts for a 1986 454, 1990 350 or a 1988 454. Add the motor home to that and the 4L80E and it does get complicated.
One foot note: I has screwed the o2 sensor into the header so I wouldn't loss it. Forgot to remove it when I was wrestling the header into place and boom! I broke it.
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:25 PM   #124
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I didn't really look at the radiator when I took it out. Was planning to buy an aluminum radiator till I got the $800-1000 quote from another place. I've looked it over now and with the junk in the oil cooler plate, the overall condition, and age, a new one is in order. So, now I've sent 'wizard cooling' a drawing and pictures to see what it will cost. They advertise to build one for $450-650.
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Looks like the tubes are leaking.
With that delay I started work on the top of the engine. Got the air clearer housing on and guess what.
I won't fix on the top flange of the TB where it uses. The inlet was going under the cruise control but now it needs to point straight forward.
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And when I put the dog house cover on, it don't fit either. Need to find a plenum and the filter will go behind the front grill.
More expensive parts
So, after I get the plug wires on I'm once again at 'work stop'
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Old 02-05-2013, 05:04 PM   #125
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Seams like I wait for parts forever. Got with the folks at K&N and came up with a couple boxes full of parts that became my air inlet. Bought it from Summit and saved about $30. I needed 5 3" clamps so I ordered 5. Got 5 bags of 6 or 30 clamps. Sent 4 bags of clamps back to Summit which will cut the cost by another $40.
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Now I'm trying to sell this pill of scrap on craigslist.
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Never heard a word from the radiator shop in the great state of New York I sent a drawing and pictures to. So, I found the aluminum replacement radiator. It's at a shop. Has been for over a week now. He can't find a 3/8" pipe thread aluminum fitting for the electric fan sensor. Wednesday morning I plan on going and getting it and taking it to someone willing to work on it.
I did kick the started in just to see if it would kick off. It didn't and a good thing too. Just turning it over a couple time pumped some transmission fluid onto the floor. If that thing had started, would have pumped a gallon or so out.... That be another mess.
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Old 02-05-2013, 05:14 PM   #126
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Never heard a word from the radiator shop in the great state of New York I sent a drawing and pictures to. So, I found the aluminum replacement radiator. It's at a shop. Has been for over a week now. He can't find a 3/8" pipe thread aluminum fitting for the electric fan sensor. Wednesday morning I plan on going and getting it and taking it to someone willing to work on it.

Try McMaster-Carr

They're my go-to place for more unusual piping/tubing, etc.
Small orders not a problem; very fast delivery.

- Bart
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