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Old 11-05-2012, 08:17 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
Mel,
Brad is not being truthful, when he says the only way to get the motor out is with a lifting plate...

If you cut everything off above the chassis rails you can lift it out without one...
Is that true Brad?
ROFL.
Well, lets just say I seriously considered that method for a while

However the desire to get the motor out sooner rather than later and the fact that I wanted to experiment on how to best handle a 454 for when I have to insert one in my Argosy led me to pull it from the front. That's my story and I'm sticking to it

Besides, I have pictures to prove it
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Old 11-05-2012, 08:21 PM   #44
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Thanks!!! AutoZone has one for $13. But I got to go pay for it so they can order it. Give me something to do after I go vote in the morning. Then I go get a boom hoist! Tools! More tools!!
I used the bolt that runs through the side of the engine hoist arm where the lifting chain attaches and some large washers (warshers for some of you!) to fasten it to the arm. It looked rather shaky but worked like a charm.

Nothing wrong with more tools
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Old 11-06-2012, 06:39 AM   #45
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
Mel,
Brad is not being truthful, when he says the only way to get the motor out is with a lifting plate...

If you cut everything off above the chassis rails you can lift it out without one...
Is that true Brad?
ROFL.
I do have two chain hoist, one to lift the body off, the other to pull the motor. Trouble is I only have one tree limb and the leafs are all falling of so no shady till spring for this shady tree mechanic:<(
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Old 11-06-2012, 08:34 AM   #46
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I do have two chain hoist, one to lift the body off, the other to pull the motor. Trouble is I only have one tree limb and the leafs are all falling of so no shady till spring for this shady tree mechanic:<(
Mel, I tried lifting the body off and all I did was bend the shell

Originally I really was going to try and lift the motor out from the top after I removed the shell. That was before I found that the shell is fastened down using screws AND nails. I quickly gave up on that idea and opted for the out the front method

Sometime this weekend I need to up date the 345 interior views you normally dont see warning graphic pictures thread with the latest on my dismantling efforts.

Brad
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:08 PM   #47
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Mel, I tried lifting the body off and all I did was bend the shell

Brad
Lifting the body off one of these isn't like lifting a body off a VW.
I ordered me a 'lift plate' and got a boom hoist today. Cut one link from a chain for the boom bolt and when I get the 'lift plate' I'll figure out how to mate them. The hoist just fits between the jack stands too.
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Stripped the extra metal off the header. Thinking about getting them 'powder coated'. They say that with a ceramic coating they dissipate heat from the engine better.. and the last longer.
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:26 PM   #48
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Lifting the body off one of these isn't like lifting a body off a VW.
The body shell is surprisingly light and if all of the nails and screws from the floor had been removed I'm sure my front end loader would have picked it up easily. Originally it wasn't worth the effort for me to remove all of those nails and screws so I cut the shell into sections to remove it. It wasn't until I took the first section of truck chassis complete with wood floor to the scrap yard that I found out they don't take wood I had to haul it back home and go through cutting off all of the nails and screws with a torch just to remove the wood floor. So I ended up having to do the work anyway

Quote:
I ordered me a 'lift plate' and got a boom hoist today. Cut one link from a chain for the boom bolt and when I get the 'lift plate' I'll figure out how to mate them. The hoist just fits between the jack stands too.
If you look at my post # 38 above at the 4th picture you'll see where I have a bolt running through the hoist arm with a large flat washer to hold it to the lifting plate. Using a chain link in between adds more height to the lift which could be a problem. I found the bolt and washer arrangement to be more than stable enough.

Brad
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Old 11-07-2012, 12:12 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
The body shell is surprisingly light and if all of the nails and screws from the floor had been removed I'm sure my front end loader would have picked it up easily. Originally it wasn't worth the effort for me to remove all of those nails and screws so I cut the shell into sections to remove it. It wasn't until I took the first section of truck chassis complete with wood floor to the scrap yard that I found out they don't take wood I had to haul it back home and go through cutting off all of the nails and screws with a torch just to remove the wood floor. So I ended up having to do the work anyway




If you look at my post # 38 above at the 4th picture you'll see where I have a bolt running through the hoist arm with a large flat washer to hold it to the lifting plate. Using a chain link in between adds more height to the lift which could be a problem. I found the bolt and washer arrangement to be more than stable enough.

Brad
I have a beat up 35' Spartanette I've got to get road worthy, bring 170 miles home, only to scrapping.

I did note (#38) the way you used a bolt. It just happens the the hoist fits between the jack stands die center to the motor w/no room. May need to block the tires and remove the jack stands and follow your lead.
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Old 11-07-2012, 12:30 PM   #50
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Or remove the oil pan and oil pump...
I was reading that older post by GWBaker, about putting a Cummings in one of these, and he had to remove the head and put the motor in without! Wise also as I bet the BT6 with head was close to maxing the engine crane out at full reach.

Had my fair share of hieght restrictions in my home garage...
Subaru motor refresh done..


When I pulled my Suburban motor we did it with the trans attached...
What a silly move that was!
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Old 11-08-2012, 02:12 PM   #51
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Got my lift plate and tried it out. Can you see it under all the wire? Did decide to go with the bolt and big washer. The chain link and hook didn't give the room needed to clear.
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That little 'o motor came right out of there, after I removed that last ground wire that is. A bracket sticking up on the driver side valve cover became a pain. It will be in my scrap pile before I squeeze it back in. Was bolting it to the work stand by sundown.
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Went and had some supper, some beer and had to go pull the timing chain cover off just to look. Then some more beer.
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Don't look bad, just has 7/8" (not good)side slop. Getting close to slapping the cover.
The intake is off. Hope to replace it with a Edelbrock #2161, but don't know if I have an extra inch between the Banks air cleaner housing and the dog house(old intake-3 7/8" high; 2151-4 3/4") Got one head off and broke my last 5/8" socket on the other. So, I'm off to Sears for replacements. Can't get the drain plug out of the side either, so more mess on the floor.
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Look one sided that way, don't it.
Now to Sear I go.
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Old 11-08-2012, 06:50 PM   #52
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I love rebuilding engines. I don't know why, but it give me great satisfaction when I do and I have done quite a few over the years. The last engine I rebuilt was a Nissan L28 turbo for my 72 240Z. Funny thing was, the longer it sat on the engine stand the more modified it became. Ended up doing a full Haltech programable FI computerized T3/T04E turbo setup with 650cc injectors. By the time I was done that little ole 2.8L motor put down 385rwhp and 365ft/lbs of torque on the dyno. I do have a tendency to get a little carried away with my projects. God help me if I ever have to pull the MO engine. Imagine a twin turbo charged 454 in a MO? I'm gonna need some better brakes.
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Old 11-08-2012, 06:55 PM   #53
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I love rebuilding engines. I don't know why, but it give me great satisfaction when I do and I have done quite a few over the years. The last engine I rebuilt was a Nissan L28 turbo for my 72 240Z. Funny thing was, the longer it sat on the engine stand the more modified it became. Ended up doing a full Haltech programable FI computerized T3/T04E turbo setup with 650cc injectors. By the time I was done that little ole 2.8L motor put down 385rwhp and 365ft/lbs of torque on the dyno. I do have a tendency to get a little carried away with my projects. God help me if I ever have to pull the MO engine.
That's some serious power!

Quote:
Imagine a twin turbo charged 454 in a MO? I'm gonna need some better brakes.
And probably a bigger dog house
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Old 11-08-2012, 07:05 PM   #54
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I could just turn the doghouse into a table.
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Old 11-08-2012, 07:32 PM   #55
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Got my lift plate and tried it out. Can you see it under all the wire? Did decide to go with the bolt and big washer. The chain link and hook didn't give the room needed to clear.
.......

That little 'o motor came right out of there, after I removed that last ground wire that is. A bracket sticking up on the driver side valve cover became a pain. It will be in my scrap pile before I squeeze it back in. Was bolting it to the work stand by sundown.
There is always that one wire that get's missed! I had the same problem pulling the 345 motor.

It's definitely a lot easier than it first appeared, isn't it. I was sweating it at first and then it just slid out of the opening.

I'm glad all went well for you.

Quote:
The intake is off. Hope to replace it with a Edelbrock #2161, but don't know if I have an extra inch between the Banks air cleaner housing and the dog house(old intake-3 7/8" high; 2151-4 3/4") Got one head off and broke my last 5/8" socket on the other. So, I'm off to Sears for replacements. Can't get the drain plug out of the side either, so more mess on the floor.
I've got the 2160 Edelbrock intake but I'm using the thinner factory air filter housing. At least for the time being. I'll worry about a bigger filter once everything is back together and I can see just what will or won't fit.

Brad
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Old 11-09-2012, 04:17 PM   #56
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I've got the 2160 Edelbrock intake but I'm using the thinner factory air filter housing. At least for the time being. I'll worry about a bigger filter once everything is back together and I can see just what will or won't fit.

Brad
Didn't find a match for the intake (2160). Maybe the 2161 replaced it. Think I'll go with the Edelbrock 2161 and if the air cleaner housing don't fit, I'll go with a plenum to a cone filter behind the grill.

I got the replacement socket and today I got 'er down to the bare-bare. Got the heads and block to my machine shop. Well know next week what size bore it'll be. Just eyeballing it, I think .030 well be fine. That would give me 489ci. Can't order anything till I know that number.

Know anyone in need of the stock 4-bolt, that only got 2 bolts, rotating assembly, I go one. I'll put it on caigslist.

Oh yeah, check on a aluminum radiator..... About $900 and they need the old radiator to build it by. May just be happy with an aluminum intake and water pump, I can afford them and they need to be replaced. I still might though.
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