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Old 10-31-2012, 11:57 AM   #29
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Foothill Ranch , California
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Ok to fill tube...
I am gonna hit the "Fill tube delete" button on mine and put some nice valve covers on I already have... It really is not too much of a chore to pull the doghouse off to check, and that will encourage me to check the trans fluid at same time!

On my Suburban, nearly every intake valve was bent... but the pistons were fine. It was 20 years old and had about 150k on it at the time. The bores were well within spec, so I put a new set of rings in, an RV cam, and swapped another set of heads on. I has almost 170k on it now and runs like a train!

Take it easy there with the eye and the back....
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Old 10-31-2012, 07:21 PM   #30
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Ok to fill tube...
I am gonna hit the "Fill tube delete" button on mine and put some nice valve covers on I already have... It really is not too much of a chore to pull the doghouse off to check, and that will encourage me to check the trans fluid at same time!
Or if you're like me, cause you to neglect putting oil in
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Old 10-31-2012, 07:34 PM   #31
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
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Quote:
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Ok to fill tube...
I am gonna hit the "Fill tube delete" button on mine and put some nice valve covers on I already have... It really is not too much of a chore to pull the doghouse off to check, and that will encourage me to check the trans fluid at same time!
Take it easy there with the eye and the back....
A real (under the dog house)dip stick maybe in the future. That thing that's in there is a pain in the butt! Got to use a pair of pliers to get it back down the tube. And every time I put oil in, I always get some on the cooling fins which collects dirt. Not good for air flow.
Got with the guys I'm thinking of buy the strocker kit from and he is telling me to go with 9.0:1 compression 'flat top' pistons. I was thinking no more than 8.6:1. I still got time to look around/talk till I get the block out, apart and to the machine shop. Well, hopefully next week. Then I can get exact on the cam grind. In the neighborhood of: Duration @0.050 206/212; Lift .510/.510; LSA 110. Can't be sure till I know the actual bore size. To get 496ci the bore would be 4.310", stroke- 4.25" That's .059 over stock bore and .25 over stock stroke.
If it looks like I'm going of the falls in a barrel, please throw me a rope!
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Old 11-01-2012, 11:15 AM   #32
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I just want to know what drag strip you're going to be running at so I can come and watch...
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Old 11-01-2012, 12:17 PM   #33
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
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Turn the tag axle around to act as wheely bars!
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Old 11-02-2012, 05:55 PM   #34
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1983 31' Airstream310
Pflugerville , Texas
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Update on post #19. Low alternator voltage.

With the ignition key off I was reading 8 V on the alternator lead. I think that's a bad omen. So this is what I did. Took off the lead from the coach batteries and tied it back out of the way. Took the three remaining wires and put them all on the post that was originally connected to the engine battery, effectively taking the isolator out of the picture. This did help but I still have one more gremlin in the system. At the post where the sense wire connects I have 14.44 volts. But across the engine battery I only have 13.2 with the engine running which probably means the wire is underrated for the amperage it's carrying. I could move his sense wire down to the battery but I rather have the proper gauge wire in this circuit. What I believe this shows is I have a bad battery isolator and the diodes are really leaking bad in the reverse direction. Rather than replacing the isolator I'm thinking about either a relay or a switch because the majority of the time I either connected to shore power or have the generator running. When I have the ignition switch in the run position and the engine not running I have about 10 V on the dashboard meter. Because I have two fuel pumps, heated O2 sensor and the computer running this is probably something close to normal. Can anybody give me a guess on how much current the hundred amp alternator would supply to a battery that was discharged down to around 10 V?
Regards;
Bill
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:30 AM   #35
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The lower voltage probably means that you have a high resistive contact somewhere between the sense wire post and the battery. Could be any connection along the way. Are you measuring the voltages using the same ground point? If not, then a poor ground may also be a factor. Not likely that the battery cable it self is too small a gauge to account for that much loss.
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:33 AM   #36
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Bolton , Massachusetts
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how is the engine job going ? Got a quote for a crate engine from auto zone $ 1,845 which sounds like a decent price for a 454 - I am getting my ducks lined up for the big family xmas present - a new engine in the 85 345 after 220,000 miles .its smokin like a cigar bar
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Old 11-04-2012, 05:09 PM   #37
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choctaw , Oklahoma
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I pretty much got everything stripped off I can. Need a good strong tree limb now. Still need to put a strap around the frame to hold the front of the transmission up.
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Hope I don't have to take this front cross member and brake plumbing out.
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This is all the big pieces of scrap iron. Broke on of the studs on the collects and I need to get a O2 connector welding up close to the head. When I put the EFI on I put the O2 sender back behind the collector thinking I needed at least half of the cylinders to be sensed, but the exhaust cools too much by the time if gets to the sender.
I need to get with my friend that has a boom hoist and get-er done!
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Old 11-04-2012, 05:38 PM   #38
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You do not have to remove the crossmember or brake tee and piping. You need one of the lifting plates that mount to the intake manifold in place of the carburetor. You can get lifting plates on ebay for $15. Just use a good grade of bolt when bolting it to the intake manifold. This is the only way to pull the motor.

Below are pictures of when I pulled the 454 from the 345 as I was dismantling it. Sorry about the quality of the pictures the sunlight was streaming in and there wasn't much I could do about it. I wasn't about to wait until the sun moved to finish the job

Let me know if you have any questions.

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Old 11-04-2012, 06:02 PM   #39
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454 gt ?

Good luck with the project! Stay safe! and Really question the benefit of going to 9 to 1 compression, it would definitely give more torque and horsepower. 91 or 93 octane may permanently be your only choice though. As my 454 only has 20,000+- miles on it, I have no interest in opening her up, except for an RV cam if I get really froggy about it.
All the best. Rich.
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Old 11-04-2012, 06:36 PM   #40
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P.s.

In 2000 we were buying 454 rebuilds to Mercruiser 340 HP spec' for $2200.00 with a 3yr full engine warranty.. If I was changing engines (and wanted more power) today I would consider doing the same.
All the best. Rich.
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:23 PM   #41
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You do not have to remove the crossmember or brake tee and piping. You need one of the lifting plates that mount to the intake manifold in place of the carburetor. You can get lifting plates on ebay for $15. Just use a good grade of bolt when bolting it to the intake manifold. This is the only way to pull the motor.
Thanks!!! AutoZone has one for $13. But I got to go pay for it so they can order it. Give me something to do after I go vote in the morning. Then I go get a boom hoist! Tools! More tools!!
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:54 PM   #42
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Mel,
Brad is not being truthful, when he says the only way to get the motor out is with a lifting plate...

If you cut everything off above the chassis rails you can lift it out without one...
Is that true Brad?
ROFL.
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