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Old 10-27-2012, 05:14 PM   #15
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
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I would NEVER go to a one wire alternator in a motor home. You need the voltage sensing ability of a 3 wire system. A one wire alternator is only good for a tractor with a limited electrical system. Go to this link and read about it before you waste your money on a one wire alternator. Brian

Catalog
Now that I've got into this project, a one wire wouldn't work because of the battery isolator. The + from the alternator goes to the battery isolator, no voltage to excite the alternator. Need to stay with a 3-wire, (well 2-wire-the 3rd is for an idiot light) but get rid of the ford regulator.
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Old 10-27-2012, 05:20 PM   #16
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Even though I'm not suppose to, I dug some more off the front of the motor.
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Getting quite a pill of scrap iron outside the shop. Most of this will be replaced. Too hard to get to to put this 37 year old junk back on.
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Old 10-27-2012, 10:14 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by choctawmel
Now that I've got into this project, a one wire wouldn't work because of the battery isolator. The + from the alternator goes to the battery isolator, no voltage to excite the alternator. Need to stay with a 3-wire, (well 2-wire-the 3rd is for an idiot light) but get rid of the ford regulator.
Most 1-wire conversions are replacing externally regulated systems. Most internally regulated alternators have a remote voltage sense (exciter) wire and a power terminal. The sense wire can be wired directly to the power terminal to work as a 1-wire Installation. Not optimally but it will work. Just saying that there is often confusion between internally regulated and externally regulated alternators with an incorrect association between 1, 2, or 3 wires.
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Old 10-27-2012, 10:16 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Dakota

Most 1-wire conversions are replacing externally regulated systems. Most internally regulated alternators have a remote voltage sense (exciter) wire and a power terminal. The sense wire can be wired directly to the power terminal to work as a 1-wire Installation. Not optimally but it will work. Just saying that there is often confusion between internally regulated and externally regulated alternators with an incorrect association between 1, 2, or 3 wires.
Good luck on the project!
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Old 10-28-2012, 01:07 AM   #19
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I have been puzzled about how airstream has done the sense wire when they installed the battery isolator. On my 310 they put the sense wire on the alternator lead and I have over a volt drop across the isolator. I always thought this may have been a wiring error but I keep finding the same setup in various airstream publications. I went digging around on the Internet tonight and I cannot find one article that advocated putting the sense wire on the alternator side, everybody's in agreement that it should go to the engine battery side so you can have 14.4 V and nice bright lights. I have a updated 12 volt converter and my best guess is applying 14.4 V from the alternator to its output when it's set to 13.3 will not do any harm. I may try this tomorrow and something burns up I will post the tragic results.
Regards
Bill
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:29 AM   #20
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doing my 454 too !

This winter I will tackle the engine on my 86 345 .265k miles so its beat and always underpowered.lookin for ideas , new rebuilt,upgrades etc.what would you do different this time if you already did yours .
I bought this baby brand new and I have lots of great memories so Im ready to give her the best for the next round of travel.
Looks like Ill have plenty of time sicne its snowing already in mt washington NH .
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:39 AM   #21
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I have a 3 stage converter and a 105a high output si alternator with the sense wire connected to the engine battery post of the isolator. The diodes in the isolator keep the converter from fooling the alternator when driving with the genset running i run @ 13.2 to 14.4vdc depending on load weather the genset is running or not.

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Engine battery post is upper right
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Old 10-28-2012, 04:42 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dakota View Post
Most 1-wire conversions are replacing externally regulated systems. Most internally regulated alternators have a remote voltage sense (exciter) wire and a power terminal. The sense wire can be wired directly to the power terminal to work as a 1-wire Installation. Not optimally but it will work. Just saying that there is often confusion between internally regulated and externally regulated alternators with an incorrect association between 1, 2, or 3 wires.
Yes, true. Three wire internal regulated is: Battery, sense (ignition), and warning light. The battery will go to the isolator and the sense will go to the coil wire. The Ford reg sense wire (I think) just goes back to the wire harness. I'll strip all that out and see. It the sense wire is on the alternator side of the isolator, would be a 1-2v drop across the isolator. Not good. The sense wire to the battery would more than likely give you a voltage drop to everything else.
You guys are making my brain hurt.
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Old 10-28-2012, 04:51 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Paul J Mauro View Post
This winter I will tackle the engine on my 86 345 .265k miles so its beat and always underpowered.lookin for ideas , new rebuilt,upgrades etc.what would you do different this time if you already did yours .
I bought this baby brand new and I have lots of great memories so Im ready to give her the best for the next round of travel.
Looks like Ill have plenty of time sicne its snowing already in mt washington NH .
I'll let you know when I got this thing back together.
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Old 10-28-2012, 05:00 PM   #24
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Got home from Church, went for a walk and then took the top apart. Guess the oil fill tube is anchored inside the tappet cover, loose, but don't pull out.
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Should of put the front jacks down before I got this far. Now I get to jack it up and start breaking header bolts off. Will wait to do that till the doctor releases me to lift, I hope this week.
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Old 10-28-2012, 05:59 PM   #25
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Got home from Church, went for a walk and then took the top apart. Guess the oil fill tube is anchored inside the tappet cover, loose, but don't pull out.
If I remember right when I was tearing down the engine compartment of the 345 the oil fill tube was just pushed into the valve cover. But then again my memory isn't what it used to be

Brad
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:08 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by shelocta View Post
I have been puzzled about how airstream has done the sense wire when they installed the battery isolator. On my 310 they put the sense wire on the alternator lead and I have over a volt drop across the isolator. I always thought this may have been a wiring error but I keep finding the same setup in various airstream publications. I went digging around on the Internet tonight and I cannot find one article that advocated putting the sense wire on the alternator side, everybody's in agreement that it should go to the engine battery side so you can have 14.4 V and nice bright lights. I have a updated 12 volt converter and my best guess is applying 14.4 V from the alternator to its output when it's set to 13.3 will not do any harm. I may try this tomorrow and something burns up I will post the tragic results.
Regards
Bill
Bill,

I'm very interested in the results of any tests you perform. Our 310 lights are on the dim side and the dash voltage always reads low yet the alternator is putting out the correct voltage.

Definitely post your results when you have the opportunity.

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 10-31-2012, 04:28 AM   #27
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Awesome progress and writeup Choc!

I have pulled at least 2 454's out of their resting places(Suburbans)...
You comment about the oil fill tube had me thinking...
Did you mean the dipstick tube?
If so, it is like the ones I have done, they are a push fit, but do have a tab that is under one of the header bolts.

When you have the motor out, I want to see how your timing gears look...
On my '87 'Burb, they disintegrated....Common issue... You will be happy if you find it early!


The stock cam gear is aluminum couted with nylon/plastic for quietness..
The plastic gets brittle with age, and breaks up, allowing the chain to eat the sprocket..
Oh, and whilst its doing that it drops this kinda stuff into the oil pan...


I didn't, leaving me with this to fix...
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Old 10-31-2012, 07:23 AM   #28
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Awesome progress and writeup Choc!

I have pulled at least 2 454's out of their resting places(Suburbans)...
You comment about the oil fill tube had me thinking...
Did you mean the dipstick tube?
If so, it is like the ones I have done, they are a push fit, but do have a tab that is under one of the header bolts.
I mean the fill tube, the pipe you put oil in. It didn't pull out of the valve cover.
With all the bent push rods, how did the valves/pistons look?
I can't do anything much till I can bend over again. Had eye surgery last Wednesday. Did too much already and my eyes swelled shut on me. Back surgery in May, eye surgery in October. Now it only I can get a functioning brain, I'll be rebuilt.
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