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Old 04-10-2002, 08:13 AM   #1
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Post rally mechanical repairs

After a big trip, your rig always has a repair list.
Seeing 6 other MH's and having the opportunity to compare notes, made some of us aware of problems and improvements, we never considered before.
Trusting your local mechanic is just not good enough.
My observations:
1. front airbags, too low or completely deflated
2. steering dampers (rubber grommets worn out)
3. Tire pressure
4. Stuff hanging too low under the coach (wires, air lines, gas lines)
5. shocks (original stock)
6. rear airbag compressor (not working, wrong cut-in/cut-out setting)

My new repair list:
1.right manifold started to leak (after fixing the left before the trip)
2.a new radiator
3.Step light blinks, when hitting a bump.
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Old 04-10-2002, 11:02 AM   #2
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Repairs

What size radiator will you use? We recored our several years ago. They had installed a to small one for our Isuzu. We always carry our to do list with us who know you actually may have time to do some things when you are out and about.
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Old 04-10-2002, 07:23 PM   #3
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Do you mean the original radiator was to small?
Mine is massive @ 21"x38".
New radiators for my 79 are not available, so I have it recored to original specs. I am running @ 180 degrees right now and like it.
The darn thing is that I will have to drop it down from under the front, since I do not want to evacuate the A/C system. That means i have to raise the front 24". Still trying to figure out, how to do it.
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Old 04-10-2002, 08:05 PM   #4
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cooling advice

Radiators are not sized by length and width alone. Another very large factor is the water tubes as in qualtity, size and shape.. Standard radiators have ar least 4 rows, usually in straight rows. The higher capacity radiators have 5 rows that are staggered. Some cores have water tubes that are shaped as a rain or tear drop so as to not slow down the airflow. Another very important consideration is the fan and shroud relationship. The fan should be just 1/2 inch from the shroud at the tips of the blade and about 1 inch into shroud.. Bipassing the heater core helps with air conditioning cooling. Fan belt tension is very important as belt longivity and water pump bearings future. All RV equiptment should have an after market temp gage with a sensor for coolant and auto trans. If outside air is used for combustion, over all temps will be lower and greater performance will be noticed.
Frank
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Old 04-11-2002, 09:49 AM   #5
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My repair list is a bit longer than Peter's

1. Fix Generator (Will not start)
2. replace fan clutch
3. repair /replace missing awning arm, rear.
4. replace safety valve on refer so it will stay lit on LP. I replaced the thermocouple at the rally, no joy.
5. Get new kitchen fan vent cover and install. This is a part no longer in production.

Once I have all of this done we get to start reconnecting the gas appliances that the PO disconeccted like the H2O heater.
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Old 04-11-2002, 09:58 AM   #6
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Peter,

Instad of raising the front end 24 inches is there a place you could park the motorhome with the front hanging over a wall that would allow for the drop down of the radiator. This would eliminate jacking, propping or some type of homemade ramps.
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Old 04-11-2002, 06:22 PM   #7
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Brett,
Yes, I thought of that, too. The problem is finding a place where it can park like that for the time it takes to recore the radiator.
I now wished we would have checked your cooling system even more at Mystic. Remember that I checked your fan clutch and it seemed ok. With temperatures in the 70s- 80's, even a bad fan clutch should not give you that much trouble. Have you ever drained your cooling system and flushed the radiator? Is your timing set right? Are you running the right plugs? Are you using midgrade gasoline? Do you have an external oil cooler?
What grade oil are you using? 10-40? Have you pulled your plugs?
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Old 04-11-2002, 06:27 PM   #8
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fan Clutch

Does everyone with a diesel have a fan clutch, fan schroud?
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Old 04-11-2002, 10:02 PM   #9
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Peter,

I want to recore the radiator on my 84 as well, but like you do not want to loose air conditioning freon. I am concerned that refrigerents available today will not work with a 1984 system.

I did not think it was possible to remove the radiator without removing the factory air. If you perform that job, post the how to. I'd rather follow your lead ..

Jim
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Old 04-11-2002, 10:22 PM   #10
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Jim, If I remember correctly, the radiator in the 1984 is different than mine. Its located right over the frame and has to be removed thru the front. You can have the freon evacuated and reused after your radiator repairs.
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Old 04-28-2002, 03:18 PM   #11
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radiator

I succeeded in getting the radiator out without disturbing the A/C freon. There are a lot hard-to-get to nuts and bolts, so it was not an easy job. Since I have easy access to the waterpump and the fan clutch, I will replace those as well. Not that I want to, but it seems to be the right thing to do.
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Old 05-02-2002, 10:07 PM   #12
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1997 30' Excella
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Got it back together and looking good!
Recored radiator
new water pump
new fan clutch
new thermostat
total cost for parts 425.-
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Old 06-30-2002, 03:45 PM   #13
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water pump

I just wanted to ask how big of a job was the water pump I think mine is going to need replaced soon. It does not look like you have much access from the top. I dont think the dog house comes off.Im very mechanical as I repair equiptment for a living but some jobs I have found is better to have the people who have done it before give you advice.
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Old 06-30-2002, 04:26 PM   #14
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Larry,
After the 79 model they made the doghouse bigger for easier access.
On the 79 model, you have to remove the entertainment center (if present). It slides towards the rear over the doghouse using some leverage with screwdrivers. (disconnect wires for radio, etc.)
Once it is out of the way, you will see another metal plate in front of the doghouse. Remove all the screws from the metal plate and the doghouse hinge and remove the plate leaving the doghouse in place for easier accessibility.
It still will be a tight fit to replace the waterpump thats why I did it with the radiator out.
Hint:
Always put gasket sealer on the water pump mounting bolts, since I have seen threads cut all the way through to the water passage.
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