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Old 03-24-2004, 07:47 AM   #1
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Part Number for Donut Gasket

I need P/N for the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe donut gasket.

I have a 1990 (MFG 09/1989) P30 Chevy Chassis 454 with FI

Anybody been down this road?

I had an exhaust leak and when I put my hand beside the transition, it was blowing hot air right out of the side.

I removed the flange nuts and the gasket practically fell apart with exception of the metal liner.

The problem I am facing right now is I cannot get the flange fitting to come off of the studs.
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Old 03-24-2004, 08:21 AM   #2
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Autozone

Search has these results from Autozone

Unit Price: $8.89
Core Value*: $0.00
Felpro Part No.: 60584
Weight: 0.15 lbs.

Any disputes?

Smily
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Old 03-24-2004, 09:00 AM   #3
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I haven't had the "stuck" problem because I usually spend my time breaking the nuts off.

Is your flange spring loaded so as to be a "floating" fit? If so, I would recommend starting the engine, and tapping the stuck union with an appropriate metal tool.

Don't forget the anti-seize compound at reinstallation.
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Old 03-24-2004, 09:15 AM   #4
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If you can get the old one out....take it with you to AutoZone or Pep Boys. I replaced mine this way. Neither of them listed it as a "stock part" but they got some from the back and lined them up. Sure enought they had it.

I think it was under $10.

You might want to try a little PBBlaster on those studs. I ended up cutting the studs, removing the exhaust, grinding down the studs then drilling out the flanges for new bolts.

That way if they rust up again I can cut them and they will come out each side with a punch and hammer.
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Old 03-24-2004, 09:30 AM   #5
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Your lucky. You got the bolts off.

My buddy is a pro wrench and helped me with fixing some of my exhaust leaks. 7.5 hours of non stop work later we got the one side done...and not without problems. 2 bolts broke off in the head that we had to drill out. All three at the collector flange broke. Ended up welding then new ones in because we could not get it tapped out correctly down there. They are a odd size if it's late 80's. I still need to do the other side but I think I'm going to headers thanks to Steven.
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Old 03-24-2004, 09:37 AM   #6
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you need a torch to heat the manifolds up . other wise the studs break . dont even want to have to remove the manifold.
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Old 03-24-2004, 09:44 AM   #7
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Re: Part Number for Donut Gasket

Quote:
Originally posted by smily
I need P/N for the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe donut gasket.

.......
I always replace those with a solid metal donut gasket. I got mine at the local muffler shop.
Using solid brass nuts on the studs avoids future problems.
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Old 03-24-2004, 10:10 AM   #8
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Thanks

Good tips!

As for the replacement gasket it is all metal with exception of some asbestos compound in the center.

Mine was not spring loaded. They did have brass nuts which came off almost too easy. The problem I am having is that the studs are not straight in relation to each other, they are not bent but they are not perpendicular to the manifold. So, I just went to Harbor Freight and bought a slide hammer for 15 bucks

I feel this will get the retainer off. I am hoping this repair will only cost about 33 dollars including the slide hammer.

Will update tomorrow.

Smily
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Old 03-24-2004, 12:29 PM   #9
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Re: Thanks

Quote:
Originally posted by smily
Good tips!

As for the replacement gasket it is all metal with exception of some asbestos compound in the center......
I am talking about all metal, no asbestos. It will burn up sooner or later.
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Old 03-24-2004, 12:42 PM   #10
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Confusion

Well, I thought it was asbestos so I went out and got the gasket. Upon further review, I see that the gasket is made of like a Lead ring and stuffed with what looks like aluminum foil?

It is not asbestos.

Are you speaking of a solid steel gasket? if so, how does it actually "mold" to the hole or "seal" the not-so-perfectly concentric opening?

I do not see any asbestos or what I am used to seeing in this ring, but it is not a single component. It appears to be lead and aluminum.

Smily
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Old 03-24-2004, 01:26 PM   #11
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You may have the right gasket. The once I put in my last 2 MH's appeared to be steel and I never had a problem with leaks or having to ever replace them again. A muffler shop will know what we are talking about.

Any good muffler shop will also be able to put new studs in your exhaust manifold. They usually weld a nut to the stud and use a blowtorch to heat the manifold.
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Old 03-24-2004, 02:32 PM   #12
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Re: Confusion

Quote:
Originally posted by smily
Well, I thought it was asbestos so I went out and got the gasket. Upon further review, I see that the gasket is made of like a Lead ring and stuffed with what looks like aluminum foil?

It is not asbestos.

Are you speaking of a solid steel gasket? if so, how does it actually "mold" to the hole or "seal" the not-so-perfectly concentric opening?

I do not see any asbestos or what I am used to seeing in this ring, but it is not a single component. It appears to be lead and aluminum.

Smily
Did it not come with the inner steel ring? That looks lidentical to the ones on my Burb but they have a metal peice that goes into the flange onthe engine side. It can be removed.
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Old 03-24-2004, 02:33 PM   #13
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Quote:
They usually weld a nut to the stud
That is the only way to remove broken bolts and studs. It puts some heat in to help break it loose and gives something good to turn with; plus you don't have the problem of the harder bolt pushing the drill bit into the softer cast iron.

John
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Old 03-25-2004, 07:05 AM   #14
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More confusion

Now I am really confused,

I have the Metal piece that toaster refers to but I thought that was a piece of the deteriorated gasket. Here is a photo of the two pieces side by side. I thought that the smaller piece was a remnant of the old one.

It is not too late for me to get it back in, I have to get a thread chaser to clean up some threads on the studs.

Is the piece on the right supposed to go back in the manifold?
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