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Old 02-23-2007, 09:13 PM   #1
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1974 20' Argosy 20
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P30 fuse blocks and connectors

During my trouble shooting efforts the last few days I've come to the conclusion that the method GM used for plugging external devices into the fuse block system is of poor design. On our 310 there are at least 3 wires that have had the insulation partially melted but only for a few inches at the end where it plugs into the fuse block. The rest of the wire is just fine. This leads me to the conclusion that the type of connection used inside the fuse block does not provide sufficient connection strength. It must be a loose enough connection that the connection heats up and then things start melting. Both the A/C blower motor feed wire and the compressor feed wire both had melted ends

There is one other wire that is the same way but I haven't identified what feeds as yet.

I think what I will likely do set up another/better fuse block somewhere close by to feed the high current devices.

Have any of you had to do something similar?


Thanks,

Brad
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Old 02-24-2007, 06:18 AM   #2
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I came across mention in post 21 here. Any moho owners experienced Brad's problem?

Glad to help anyone who quotes Buckaroo Banzai (and others too I guess ... ). My signature line read "Home... home is where you wear your hat... I feel so breakup, I wanna go home. -- Lord John Whorfin" for a long time.
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Old 02-24-2007, 06:28 AM   #3
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Check out Vintage Trailer. they have DC Fuse blocks.

Post pics if you can, I have a 77 Argosy 20. I'd be interested in how you are making out??
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Old 02-25-2007, 08:54 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canoe stream
I came across mention in post 21 here. Any moho owners experienced Brad's problem?

Glad to help anyone who quotes Buckaroo Banzai (and others too I guess ... ). My signature line read "Home... home is where you wear your hat... I feel so breakup, I wanna go home. -- Lord John Whorfin" for a long time.
I checked out the thread you mentioned. I tend not to agree with the one comment about "to frequent use" causing a connector/wire to melt. They will only melt if there is a poor connection creating heat or an over current condition exists.

I tend to think its just a poor design for the connetors, not enough pressure for the current load.

My wife is the one that quotes Buckaroo... She just registered under her own sig "Alumatube" and she moved that quote to her sig. Guess I have to come up with one of my own now

Thanks,

Brad
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Old 02-25-2007, 10:21 PM   #5
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Hey Canoe stream--Laugh while you can, Monkey Boy!

BB is one of my favorite movies! I am glad to find another fan.

Susan (Brad's wife)
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Old 05-11-2007, 03:52 PM   #6
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I quite agree, The chassis like the AS wiring is very poor, or should I say not up to modern day standards. I have rewired all the domestic 12volt system because of undersized wires. For example when the lights were on, and the pump comes on the lights go dull. So I have replaced all main power supplies to the fuse boxes with larger size cables. That has made a wealth of difference. In fact I re-cabled all the house batteries - see photo.

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I removed the chassis battery to the space between the bulkhead under the drivers seat and the slide out compartment. Slung underneath it fits beautifully, and as the battery is of the "none maintenance" type it is just the job. This left just (Only Just!) enough room to fit the four 6volt 125 Amp/Hr Batteries in the battery tray under the step.

The chassis fuse box and holders I think is very poor, including access to it. I find it difficult, being a bit portly, to squeeze under the dash to reach the connections and fuses.
I have now started to rewire all "spare" and "axillary" connections that are using the spade inserts into the fuse box, from a single source from either the chassis battery or house batteries depending on use. In each case I have gone back to the main supply cable, created a soft fuse block and taken wires from that to the likes of lights, heater, dash lights, horn entertainments etc.,

Each of these circuits now has its own fuse rather than relying on one fuse of the P30 block to cope with many items. This way when a fuse pops, not everything stops!

I will photo all when finished and set it out on a wiring diagram in AutoCAD. When all thats done I will post it for any one to take off, but as my "free time" is limited it may take a while.
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Old 06-08-2007, 08:10 AM   #7
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Wiring diagram

I sure would like to see your wiring diagram. On my Argosy MH I keep blowing a 20 amp fuse that controls the lights in the overhead in the bedroom and the bathroom light. It doesn't blow right away. I have an idea that it has to do with the poor connections at the fuse box itself. I just happen to put my hand down close to the 12 volt distribution panel and felt a lot of heat. I then noticed the lights not working and found a blown 20 amp fuse. When I went to pull the fuse out it burnt by fingers it was so hot. That much heat I would almost think it was a direct short to ground....but if it were a direct short I would think it would blow the fuse just as soon as I put a new one in....but it dosen't blow. Sometimes lights will work for good half hour then blows fuse. I should say also....all the fuses seem nice and tight....in fact I had to get a better fuse puller than the cheapo plastic one that I had.... so it's not a loose connecting fuse holder. Anyone have any ideas?????
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