Radiator removal turned out to be fairly easy task.
1. Drain the coolant. I'd recommend refilling with water and doing a flush/clean before pulling the radiator as opposed to after its reinstalled.
2. Remove the CAC and coolant hoses.
3. Remove the reservoir and power steering tank brackets.
3. The fan shroud is held on by 5 bolts across the top and 4 across the bottom. Slide the shroud forward to rest on the fan.
4. The radiator/CAC is held on by the two brackets on the top and two nuts on the bottom. Tilt it back and lift it out. You will need a helper that can lift about 50 lbs awkward without bending the fins on the radiator.
5. The CAC is bolted to the radiator by 4 bolts.
6. It's a good time to pressure wash the engine, change the belts and hoses...
7. If you have 100k miles you might want to think about spending $70 on a new water pump and keeping the old one as a spare.
8. If you have ever been concerned about the Killer Dowel Pin, this is a perfect time to install the kit.
The source of the problem was an oil leak on the air compressor and oil mist from the breather. Mix that with dust and blow it through the fan. The resulting mess was amazingly difficult to pressure wash clean. It took a cans of gunk and couple hot baths an a strong soap solution and a good pressure washer.
I washed the inside of the CAC and pressure tested it.
I found a leak on the inlet tube on the radiator and soldered it.
An option would be to take them both to a radiator shop and have them boiled out and inspected.
I will be installing a crank case vent filter system.
It was amazing how much effort and money was spent by the PO chasing this engine and transmission overheating problem. The visible surfaces were clean. It's impossible to power wash the crud out from the opposite side of the radiator or CAC.
An easy test other than the obvious feel for flow with your hand is placing a light near the fan and looking for light from the back. Works great at night.