Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-16-2003, 04:59 PM   #15
2 Rivet Member
 
Hayseed's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 21
Thanks for the reply !!

The front (shortened) section was balanced and they also inspected the center hanger and it's bearing ... all is ok.

At this point I'm trying to take it one step at a time ... make sure the two sections are aligned properly with each other ... then go from there.
__________________

__________________
The Hayseed
Hayseed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2003, 05:31 PM   #16
Rivet Master
 
87MH's Avatar
 
1978 31' Sovereign
Texas Airstream Harbor , Zavalla, in the Deep East Texas Piney Woods on Lake Sam Rayburn
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,435
Images: 292
Installed OD

Congratulations on trying the install!!

I wure would like to see some pictures, and a 5000 mile debriefing.

My 345 is in temp storage while the "motor Home Port" is being installed, so I'm not able to give you an alignment diagram right now.

Again, great news on the install, and, a step by step documentation for the rest of us would be appreciated.
__________________

__________________
Dennis

"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."

WBCCI # 1113
AirForums #1737

Trailer '78 31' Sovereign

Living Large at an Airstream Park on the Largest Lake Totally Contained in Texas
Texas Airstream Harbor, Inc.
87MH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2003, 06:21 PM   #17
2 Rivet Member
 
Hayseed's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 21
Here's a picture of the unit installed. As for directions ... I just used the ones that came with the unit. They were excellent and were written for the novice (although it did help that I've been an amateur mechanic for probably 45+ years.. I had no problems what-so-ever. The kit came as complete as any I've ever used.

I will try, in the next few days, to put together a "step by step document".

By-the-way ... what GearVenders says is pretty much the case ... you end up with a (virtual) six speed drive system. First OD is about three-quarters between first and second ... second OD is about three-quarters between second and third, etc. Pretty handy when first is too low and second is too high, etc.

So far I have found only one minor operational drawback ... there is no connection to the engine vacuum. The unit does not know when the engine is laboring real hard and needs to shift out. You have to manually dissengauge it ... bummer !!
__________________
The Hayseed
Hayseed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2003, 05:28 AM   #18
2 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 95
Images: 6
Driveshaft yokes

Congradulations!!

the yoke's should align with each other on any paticular shaft (the ones that are welded to the shaft) PERFECTLY, not 90 degrees out. in other words if you layed the shaft on a flat surface the flats on the SHAFT
( the part that you put the snap rings in) should both touch the surface and they need to be near perfect otherwise you will get a 'shudder"
If the shaft is bad, you can get another shaft from any vehicle that has the same dia and "U" joint size from a salvage yard and start over.
Just because it is "balanced" doesn't mean that it is in alignment or has a out of round condition.
at the kind of rpms (3000+) that they turn, they gotta be correct.
good luck,

hmmmmm, you got me to thinking, do you ingauge the overdrive electrically?
if so, I had a chevette one time that ingauged the torque converter through a vacuum switch.
When the vacuum got low ( pulling/laboring) the switch would open, unlocking the "torque conv. it is a simple 2 wire vacuum operated switch. it was a 84 chevette
just a thought.
Later, ol George
__________________
George is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2003, 06:09 AM   #19
2 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 95
Images: 6
Driveshaft.

Hayseed,
I got to thinking, ( bad thing) Ha, lol!, looks like they shortened the front yoke,( I do the rear, its easier to align,) anyway, some slip splines have an indexing flat (flat spot) so you can't slide them together wrong,BUT if the shaft was not checked for alignment (yoke's lined up) when they welded the end back on, you could be out of alignment .
if the yoke is one spline off (or even 1/2 spline( they should be perfect) you WILL get a "shudder" when accelerating.
This will also cause shorter "U" joint life .
I don't know the expertise of the shop, but when I do it, I use my lathe to cut the end off and then align the yoke's on a flat plate, check out of round, then weld.
The shop would have needed to have the slip yoke to do the proper alignment IF they didn't, they should do it again for free as it wasn't right .
please understand I have no knowledge of your abilities or theirs
so not to offend if I am telling you things that you already know.
luck, ol'George
__________________
George is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2003, 06:29 AM   #20
2 Rivet Member
 
Hayseed's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 21
Thanks for the reply !!

The shop that did the original shortening/welding was just a welding shop. After about 1200 miles (with alot more vibration than we have now) I took it to a BIG Fleet Pride shop that has it's own full time driveshaft shop. They have shortened/balanced two other ones for me when we used to live in that area (another long story). After I got it back in it was perfect except for a slight 'shudder' under a load (I like your term 'shudder' better than 'vibration'). I'm now concerned about the overall aligment (when I put the two together at the slip yoke) ... I know if that's not right it will shudder.

By-the-way ... when you 'do the rear' as you said, don't you have to reposition the center support ... isn't that a real pain to do ??
__________________
The Hayseed
Hayseed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2003, 06:40 AM   #21
2 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 95
Images: 6
driveshaft

Sorry ,
I meant rear of the FRONT shaft,
Fleet pride? we used to have a place down in Toledo, called Toledo drive line, last time I called they answered "fleet pride"
I thought they were out of business, hmmmm, I will check that out.
you still got the shudder?
__________________
George is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2003, 06:56 AM   #22
2 Rivet Member
 
Hayseed's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 21
yup ... still got the shudder ... I've done nothing to it since I restarted this topic yesterday.
I don't think I'll do anything more until one of the Argosy owners out there can provide me with the definitive alignment (ie; pictures). I hate to make it worse by just trying stuff. I still think mine's 90 degrees out.

... thanks
__________________
The Hayseed
Hayseed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2003, 07:08 AM   #23
2 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 95
Images: 6
drive shaft,

Hayseed ,
the yokes have to be inline,or "in phase" in other words they have to look like the rear shaft, not 90 degrees opposite ,

Just go to your neighbor lady, and tell her you want to look at HER drive shaft cause your "yokes" are messed up(maybe).
now that IS a different line you got to admit, who knows,
maybe she will fry you some yokes and toast, coffee aw well,
have a gooder,
__________________
George is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2003, 08:44 AM   #24
2 Rivet Member
 
Hayseed's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 21
Thanks again !!

Did you use the links I put in a few replies back that showed my driveshaft ?? They are:
Picture of the front universal
Picture of the center universal
Can you look at them and see if that's what you mean when you say "in phase" or are they "out of phase" ??
__________________
The Hayseed
Hayseed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2003, 09:19 AM   #25
2 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 95
Images: 6
driveshaft

ok,
I looked at the pictures, looks like the shaft IS correct IF you didn't move the MH between pictures.
just remember, like a bog bone , not a 1/4 turn off.
just as an afterthought, you can jack up one side,( put jack under spring between the 4 shackle bolts) and have someone run the motor home in gear and observe the shaft turning . don't need to go fast, 5 mph is way plenty, to check for run out, I think you can see the shaft WITHOUT going under.
(espically if your better half caught you over at some neighbor checking out her yokes
(sorry I just can't resist some humor) ha, LOL!!

also check the rear differential yoke (the one on the pinion)
sometimes they get worn and "spread", in other words they are too wide, allowing the drive shaft to move. grab the shaft at the rear universal and try to move it up/down side to side there should be NO radial movement .
luck, ol' George
__________________

__________________
George is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Running gear balance? Cedars Axles 79 06-10-2004 03:57 PM
Tranny 'flush' or Filter change Sav'h Steve Mechanics Corner - Engines, Transmission & More... 18 04-02-2004 09:22 PM
My Suzuki Samurai dropped into gear while being towed williamhenshall General Motorhome Topics 16 04-07-2003 10:30 AM
oil and trans fluids ALANSD Airstream Motorhome Forums 22 08-01-2002 03:47 AM
Gear vendors vs Us Gear LKappenman Mechanics Corner - Engines, Transmission & More... 0 04-18-2002 09:00 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:07 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.