Here's a picture of the unit installed. As for directions ... I just used the ones that came with the unit. They were excellent and were written for the novice (although it did help that I've been an amateur mechanic for probably 45+ years.. I had no problems what-so-ever. The kit came as complete as any I've ever used.
I will try, in the next few days, to put together a "step by step document".
By-the-way ... what GearVenders says is pretty much the case ... you end up with a (virtual) six speed drive system. First OD is about three-quarters between first and second ... second OD is about three-quarters between second and third, etc. Pretty handy when first is too low and second is too high, etc.
So far I have found only one minor operational drawback ... there is no connection to the engine vacuum. The unit does not know when the engine is laboring real hard and needs to shift out. You have to manually dissengauge it ... bummer !!
the yoke's should align with each other on any paticular shaft (the ones that are welded to the shaft) PERFECTLY, not 90 degrees out. in other words if you layed the shaft on a flat surface the flats on the SHAFT
( the part that you put the snap rings in) should both touch the surface and they need to be near perfect otherwise you will get a 'shudder"
If the shaft is bad, you can get another shaft from any vehicle that has the same dia and "U" joint size from a salvage yard and start over.
Just because it is "balanced" doesn't mean that it is in alignment or has a out of round condition.
at the kind of rpms (3000+) that they turn, they gotta be correct.
good luck,
hmmmmm, you got me to thinking, do you ingauge the overdrive electrically?
if so, I had a chevette one time that ingauged the torque converter through a vacuum switch.
When the vacuum got low ( pulling/laboring) the switch would open, unlocking the "torque conv. it is a simple 2 wire vacuum operated switch. it was a 84 chevette
just a thought.
Later, ol George
Hayseed,
I got to thinking, ( bad thing) Ha, lol!, looks like they shortened the front yoke,( I do the rear, its easier to align,) anyway, some slip splines have an indexing flat (flat spot) so you can't slide them together wrong,BUT if the shaft was not checked for alignment (yoke's lined up) when they welded the end back on, you could be out of alignment .
if the yoke is one spline off (or even 1/2 spline( they should be perfect) you WILL get a "shudder" when accelerating.
This will also cause shorter "U" joint life .
I don't know the expertise of the shop, but when I do it, I use my lathe to cut the end off and then align the yoke's on a flat plate, check out of round, then weld.
The shop would have needed to have the slip yoke to do the proper alignment IF they didn't, they should do it again for free as it wasn't right .
please understand I have no knowledge of your abilities or theirs
so not to offend if I am telling you things that you already know.
luck, ol'George
The shop that did the original shortening/welding was just a welding shop. After about 1200 miles (with alot more vibration than we have now) I took it to a BIG Fleet Pride shop that has it's own full time driveshaft shop. They have shortened/balanced two other ones for me when we used to live in that area (another long story). After I got it back in it was perfect except for a slight 'shudder' under a load (I like your term 'shudder' better than 'vibration'). I'm now concerned about the overall aligment (when I put the two together at the slip yoke) ... I know if that's not right it will shudder.
By-the-way ... when you 'do the rear' as you said, don't you have to reposition the center support ... isn't that a real pain to do ??
Sorry ,
I meant rear of the FRONT shaft,
Fleet pride? we used to have a place down in Toledo, called Toledo drive line, last time I called they answered "fleet pride"
I thought they were out of business, hmmmm, I will check that out.
you still got the shudder?
yup ... still got the shudder ... I've done nothing to it since I restarted this topic yesterday.
I don't think I'll do anything more until one of the Argosy owners out there can provide me with the definitive alignment (ie; pictures). I hate to make it worse by just trying stuff. I still think mine's 90 degrees out.
Hayseed ,
the yokes have to be inline,or "in phase" in other words they have to look like the rear shaft, not 90 degrees opposite ,
Just go to your neighbor lady, and tell her you want to look at HER drive shaft cause your "yokes" are messed up(maybe).
now that IS a different line you got to admit, who knows,
maybe she will fry you some yokes and toast, coffee aw well,
have a gooder,
Did you use the links I put in a few replies back that showed my driveshaft ?? They are: Picture of the front universal Picture of the center universal
Can you look at them and see if that's what you mean when you say "in phase" or are they "out of phase" ??
ok,
I looked at the pictures, looks like the shaft IS correct IF you didn't move the MH between pictures.
just remember, like a bog bone , not a 1/4 turn off.
just as an afterthought, you can jack up one side,( put jack under spring between the 4 shackle bolts) and have someone run the motor home in gear and observe the shaft turning . don't need to go fast, 5 mph is way plenty, to check for run out, I think you can see the shaft WITHOUT going under.
(espically if your better half caught you over at some neighbor checking out her yokes
(sorry I just can't resist some humor) ha, LOL!!
also check the rear differential yoke (the one on the pinion)
sometimes they get worn and "spread", in other words they are too wide, allowing the drive shaft to move. grab the shaft at the rear universal and try to move it up/down side to side there should be NO radial movement .
luck, ol' George
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